Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Blower Motor Doesn't Work
Dec 3, 2016
I've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
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I recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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So the evaporator in my dads Prius had been leaking for a while so we finally decided to bite the bullet and change it. Everything came apart fine. Changed the evap and expansion valve. Put it pretty much back together except for glove box and a pillar trim pieces. Push power button twice to make sure all the flaps and blower motor works as it should. Well the blower motor doesn't come on. I hear the relay click when you turn the fan on in the mid. No power at the fan though. I checked just to be sure. I've looked all over for loose wires/plugs but have yet to find anything. I started the car up and everything works fine except the blower motor. What it could be?
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My 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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My actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
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Water temperature gauge doesn't work. Assumed the problem was the sensor so bought a new one. Installed it, still nothing registering on the gauge after I know the water is heated up (drove it for 45 minutes, heater blowing hot).
So crossed the ground on the sensor and the gauge shot to the top so gauge is working.
Pulled wiring diagram and that sensor is SUPPOSED to register 79ohms for cold and 8 ohms for hot.. So bought a 10ohm resistor from radio shack and attached the water temp lead to it and the gauge read correctly about 1/8 inch from the H mark on gauge. This confirmed for me that gauge is not at fault.
Next I attached the ohmmeter to the sensor itself, boiled some water, placed the sensor tip into it and it read 86 ohms, in freshly boiled water! So at boiling the sensor isn't anywhere near to tripping the gauge to even start reading cold! So I tested the old sensor that I was replacing and in boiling water it shows 94 ohms?
What am I doing wrong, is there an assumption I am making here in error? I want to conclude the new sensor is bad, but the old sensor reads nearly the same reading under same conditions.So yes maybe they are BOTH bad but that seems to be pushing probability.
If it matters this sensor is the type that is inline from radiator to heater core, not the type that is in the engine block, at some point ford changed their sensor setup but didn't change the schematic drawing. Which doesn't matter the only difference is the one in-line has a ground wire to it rather then grounding off the engine block.
Vehicle is a 97 Ford Ranger with the 2.0 liter engine.
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Have a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
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I have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
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I have a 1989 towncar. The blower motor works in any selection (vent, panel, hi-low, mix, defrost) but does not work in the "floor" position. It also turns off in the off position as it should.
I changed out the entire climate control assembly with another one from a junkyard. I thought the function selector electrical switch might be bad. However, the blower motor still does not work.
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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
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I was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
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I recently got a 2002 f150 5.4. The fan speed works on 1 & 2, and 4. It does blow on level 3, but it seems to blow at the same cfm as level 2. I'm thinking this can't be right. But, if it was a simple resistor issue, it wouldn't run at all on level 3, right? So, where I should look first.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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How to remove the blower motor switch on my 99 F150 without breaking anything.
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I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
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My 99 f150 blower motor and blinkers slowly but surely went out on me. The hazards still work. I changed the flasher relay and the relay for the blower motor, and nothing. I've checked all the fuses, and checked for wire issues and nothing.
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My 1997 XLT 4.0 AWD w/Rear A/C has been having a Blower Motor issue for many months. Occasionally the front blower does not blow. Banging on the Blower Motor, either from under the hood, or even from inside the van underneath the glove box, will start it up again. Once running, it continued running okay until at least the next shutdown. This has gone on throughout the summer. Sometimes a good bump in the road would start it.
Now that the winter is here, heat and defrost are more critical, so it has become a bigger problem. Furthermore, is is now almost constant, where it rarely works without a bang. So it is time to actually fix it now.
From other posts, I think it is either the Blower Motor itself, or the Control Module / Resistor. But since the control module is not located on the motor itself, where I bang, it is probably the motor. Question:
1 - What is the problem, and can I fix it with grease (elbow or actual) etc... or is replacement the proper option?
2 - Should I replace the wheel too, which is not available on RockAuto - but is on the junkyard options on eBay. Unfortunately those are often just as broken as mine. Generic Wheels are available in Auto Zone.
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I just bought a 2005 Camry LE with a sunroof, but the motor doesn't work at all, not even any clicks. Can it be removed and replaced just by taking off the center plate with the switch and map lights? How does that piece come off so I can look, anyway? I tried to pull it off from the front of the vehicle, nearest the windshield, but I cracked two tabs...
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I have a 1996 Ranger that the Heater/AC blower only works when the outside air temp is above 45 degrees. I have replaced the relay, and the blower motor resistor. What could be causing this?
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