I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 ford ranger 2.3L automatic. I need to replace the instrument cluster. I can remove all the plugs from the rear of the cluster except 1 black wire I assume is the speedo cable. It runs from the rear of the cluster down underneath the dashboard. How to remove this cable so I can replace the entire cluster?
View 4 RepliesSo I have ordered practically a whole front end for my Ranger. I decided to replace all the bushings, ball joints and shocks. Only thing not getting replaced are the springs, steering knuckles/hubs and sway bar. I did find that the lower half of the upper left hand sway bar bushing was completely missing along with the upper left ball joint boot. I was looking into replacing the Rack and pinion bellows/boot. I noticed that there is a line that goes up into the boot where it attaches to the body of the rack and pinion. What is that and does it need to be removed to replace the boot?
View 3 RepliesCan't seem to figure out what is making this clicking noise. It comes from under the dash, drivers side, under the steering column... Now as for when this happens, anytime! Truck on, idling, driving, truck off, key turned to acc or key to on. Also happens even when key is not in ignition?! What this could be? Brand new battery and connecting rings/wires.
Additional info: 1996, 2.3L about 150k miles on her and she's still going strong
My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
View 8 RepliesI had suddenly developed a case of P/S high frequency SHUDDER, on my 99 Ranger, when the steering wheel was moved to either side of center. The fluid level & condition were A ok!!!!, I have kept it changed, so it's never gotten dirty. I removed about 4 oz of fluid from the P/S pump reservoir & added a like ammount of SeaFoam Trans Tune, to bring the level back up to full. In about 10 min 90% of the shudder was gone, After a 40 mile fishing trip to the lake, 99% was gone. The next day, after another 40 mile drive to the lake, fishing, it's ALL gone. So if your experiencing P/S shudder, try a SeaFoam Tans Tune treatment & a fishing trip or two, maybe it'll tune both of you up, did ME!!!! LOL BTW this is the second time the Trans Tune has worked on a P/S sticking/shudder problem, worked on my 94 Taurus two years ago, when I was experiencing a "sticking" problem with the steering wheel turned WELL off center & it's still ok. So if your having that kind of P/S problem, don't be afraid to try the Trans Tune, & a fluid flush & change, if it's dirty, like the Taurus fluid was, it just might WAKE things up.
View 11 Replies1992 Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L stick shift no AC no power steering. Recently the temp gauge began fluttering in the cold range from far left to just below the normal range. The defrost and heater blows only cold air. I had a professional shop radiator flush done. No change. I changed the engine thermostat out for a new one but no change. The upper radiator hose feels hot, so I assume the thermostat is working.
Questions: Where is the temp gauge sensor located on the engine? Is there another sensor or shutoff before the heater that might not be working? Where do I take things apart to check if the heater blend door is working?
My Daughters 2004 Ranger has about 195K the power steering reservoir is full it turns to the left as it should (assisted power steering) turning to right there is no power steering (manual Rack) I am thinking the issue is most likely in the steering rack..
View 2 RepliesI think I've tracked my power steering leak to some type of sensor on the pressure line, close to where it connects to the steering box:
I assume this is a pressure sensor? I got no CEL or anything like that when the fluid had leaked down to the level that the pump started whining pretty badly though. As far as I can tell by looking at pictures, the parts store replacement pressure lines do not have this sensor, or any provision to connect a sensor to it: Advance Auto Parts: Power Steering Pressure Hose by Powercraft - Part 71878
I may just put a replacement line on there and leave the sensor plug hanging and see what happens...
My 40 Ford pickup is on an 86 Ranger chassis and uses the stock Ranger steering gear. My question is about the connections on the steering box. I'm using a GM power steering pump and several steering gear vendors have told me that outside of needing to adjust the pressure for the correct feel, the combo works. I fired the truck for the first time tonight but the steering wheel went crazy, shaking around and finally spinning on it's own to a hard left.
Some quick research leads me to believe that I have the lines reversed but it would be great to know for sure. I did manage to find on e diagram of a Ford PS box on Google and it shows the lines reversed of what I have set up on my truck and I can't for the life of me remember how I figured out what the plumbing should be when I installed it. Which port on the box is the inlet and which is the return?
I purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
View 3 Replies1992 Ford Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L engine and 5 speed manual transmission. 135,000 miles, no AC and no power steering. I am having poor clutch disengagement and resulting hard shifting. The shop added a little fluid to the reservoir last oil change and it is still looking full. I always park on concrete and never see any leaking. I don't know what may have been done before as I haven't had the pickup all that long. Where should I start? Is there probably internal bypass leaking in the hydraulic clutch as there seems to be no external leaking?
View 4 RepliesMy 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
View 2 RepliesMy engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
View 4 RepliesI seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
View 2 RepliesI am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
View 2 RepliesI have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
View 6 Replies