Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 XLT - Rear End Shakes When Driving Down The Road
Apr 28, 2014
My problem is wih my 1996 Ford Ranger XLT 6Cyl. 4.0L 2WD Recntly it started shaking violently in the rear as I drive down the road any road. Mainly slow to about 50MPH or slower, it just starts to shake really hard and then it stops then out of the blue it will do it again I thought it might be the back Drums maybe the shoes came apart and were catching but they are fine everything looks fine, could it be the gearbox on the axle? I don't know...
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My 1999 ford ranger, when started, shakes and then while i am driving. my check engine light is on and reads a #3 cylinder misfire. I have taken it somewhere to get it checked out and they can't figure out what is wrong with it. this problem only happens 50% of the time. I don't know what to do. Also just got a tune up.
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I am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
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I have a 1996 ford ranger and i have no tail lights i have license plate lights, brake lights, Hazard and turn signals. But no running lights on the rear end. Where the grounds are for this circuit and if some one has a schematic for this ranger...
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i have a 96 ranger 2wd with a 2.3l engine and a 5 spd manual. everything works except the rear diff whines a little under load. putting new bearings in doesn't look to difficult that's what i will plan on doing but first i need to take the cover off and need to know what fluid to put in?
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Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
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I have a 98 Ranger SuperCab XLT 4WD 4.0 Auto. Occasionally, especially when it has been sitting for more than 3 days, it shakes for maybe 30 seconds on startup. It smooths out gradually after that, maybe 15 sec. to normal smoothness. It seems like it is firing on all cylinders and is more like something out of balance.
Never does it when sits less than 2 days. When it happens, the longer it sits the worse it shakes.
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02 ranger 4.0 v6 auto has 110000 miles on it. at highway speeds 65-70mph feels like it strugles to shift, truck will shake and bounce some. when this happens rpm's jump from about 2200 to 3000-3200 after a little bouncing rpms drop to normal. issue seems to be the worst going up hill but will happen every time i hit 65-70. Also the truck will not bounce or shake with the OD turned off and seems to run fine this way.
tranny fluid/ filter just replaced with no change. new plugs and wires
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So, a couple of months ago, my Ranger lost a lot of power going down the road, and when I came to a stop it died, and wouldn't start. So I got it started by roll starting it, made it to a friend's, and then back home. I've put new spark plugs and wires in, and it needed it, badly, but it didn't work. I got a couple of codes off of it,
P0302- Cylinder 2 misfire detected(which I fixed with the spark plugs)
P1443 - which I can't find a definitive answer for
P0500- vehicle speed sensor malfunction
P0171- system to lean (bank 1)
So, the truck will turn over, and if I give it a lot of gas it'll start at stay started for a few minutes, but then cut off. When it is running it's running very very very roughly.
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My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
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My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
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1993 3.0 V6 5 Spd ... Changed plugs wires Cap and rotor put in a new idle control Valve. No Check engine light. When i am running down the road feels like it surges,hickups, while its at idle the motor shakes like no tomorrow. Just dont want to throw money at something and not be the part that was wrong. Truck has plenty of pickup runs like a raped ape going down the highway. seems when i accelerate the miss clears up and not there. RPM gauge needle has some movement in it. Also put in K&N filter fuel filter as well.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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I have a 2007 Ford Ranger 3.0TDCI when I drive on a road that is bumpy or on a ground road the ABS light keeps coming on , sometimes it just flickers other times it keeps on for about 5minutes. I when for a service 3000km back but they told me the brakes is fine. What it can be?
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My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
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I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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