Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 XLT - Front Driver Side Spindle
Oct 10, 2015
I'm normally in the bullnose section, but recently started working on my father-in-law's 96 ford ranger. He wanted me to replace the front rotors.
I replaced the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to replace the driver's side, I noticed the cotter pin and castle nut were missing. A nail was in the cotter pin's place. I backed off the spindle nut and found that the threads were eaten up, as was most of the spindle with various gouges and nicks.
1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 ......
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When driving down the road, there is a constant "thud thud thud" coming from the front driver's side of my 99 Ranger. I've been looking online for about two hours now, going back and forth to my truck to see if I can figure out the problem. All I've come up with is that it's the sway bar links. they're both disconnected, and I'm going to replace them anyway, but would that cause the constant thudding?
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Bought a 2002 ranger with a four liter in it. Didn't notice until actually going off-road there is something wrong with the four wheel drive. In 4 high it will drive good for a random distance then a loud bang, pop, comes from what feels like it's the driver front tire. The faster you're moving the worse it is. It's not consistent at all.
Replaced the transfer case shift motor and both CV axles. Still does it. Walked next to the truck while it's moving and the front tires look like something is in a bind and it's causing the bang. Beating my head against the wall at this point.
On a side note it has something wrong with the tranny. Taking off it feels like someone bumped the rear, and after about twenty minutes of driving od light starts blinking and it shifts hard from first to second. Kill it, cures that specific problem just not the takeoff problem. Not sure if this is all related. Pulled the pan and refilled with as much fluid as came out. Which was a dark red. Still having same issues.
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My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
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Changed my oil today. Noticed oil coming off the front of the engine. Where this could be originating or do I need to take the belt cover off? I hate having a leak. Wanna get it to stop. Just need to know what I may be up against. 1996 2.3ltr.....
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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I've got an 08' Ranger FX4. Recently I had the drivers-side headlight go out. Today I replaced the light, and while I was there, I decided to check every bulb on the truck. Everything else works, but I noticed the 2 factory "foglights" will not come on. This is a fairly recent development, because I use those lights quite often.
Even thought they don't cast a huge amount of light, here in the Vancouver area, winters are dark & rainy, so I think 4 points of light as opposed to 2 points is a benefit. To activate those lights, you pull on the headlight selector switch. Do those lights have their own dedicated circuit with fuse? Or does this sound like a switch problem?
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I've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
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I have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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1987 ford ranger loaned it out and they said the hub spins on the driver side but the tire won't engage so it has no 4 wheel drive. Soon as I get it back hopefully today will know more.
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I am a new owner of my first truck and it is a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0L Extended Edge with 138,000 miles on it. I keep getting a chirping noise coming from driver side of truck. It only happens when I have the AC on. I can turn AC to just air and the chirping stops. This only happens when I am driving. If I have my truck parked in drive with the hood up, I go and turn on AC full blast and I hear no chirping. I can see AC compressor turn on a few seconds after I start the truck and it is not cycling on or off every few seconds as some people I have asked told me it should do. AC air is ice cold so I should have enough freon. Now this chirping is not constant like a machine gun going off but just about every 5 seconds or so it would chirp. I have heard of bad camshaft sensors causing chirping but would that happen every few seconds and only when you are driving down the road with the AC on? Now I have noticed when truck has sat for a long time I get belt squeal for a few seconds and it then goes away. I think the squeal goes away when AC compressor starts because I observed this when looking for this random chirp. Any clues?
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I noticed that one of my vacuum lines was bad on the driver's side. I've done a lot of reading on the 4WD systems and frankly I'm confused now. My understanding is that when in 2WD the solenoid is open pulling a vacuum on the actuators (IWE) which keeps them disengaged. When you switch to 4WD the shift motor on the transfer case sends power to the front wheels and the solenoid turns off the vacuum which engages the actuators sending power to the wheels. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak the actuators won't disengage properly.
Through my trouble shooting I've determined that I think the solenoid is working properly because I'm getting a vacuum when in 2WD and no vacuum in 4WD. I believe that both actuators are engaged and working properly when in 4WD. However, I must not be getting a vacuum to the driver's side actuator (hub) because the line is totally busted up and can't possibly hold a vacuum. However the passenger side line looks good to me. Does this mean that I've been driving around in "3WD"??? I don't seem to have any problems when in 2WD turning (no tire skip or hop).
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I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
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So I have a 1990 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2.9 v6. My issue is I am getting a loud constant whistle sound on the drivers side, just in front of the rear tire. It is not from the tire and it is a whistle not a whine. The truck is all stock nothing special. I do not have an exhaust anymore only a cat. Anyways the sound is constant an does not get louder or quieter while moving or in neutral it just stays the same. It just started in the last few days. Also the truck is a Manual.
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I bought a set of Ranger seats for my 1957 Ford project. My question is the drivers side seat reclining mechanism is broke. I believe the seats are out of an STX or sport model, they have a slide out bolster and power lumbar and side bolsters.
Where to get a replacement mechanism. The mechanism works the handle is busted off. It is from an extra cab so the handle is a two way for the driver and or if anyone in the back wanted to use it. I think they may be from a 1992, only say this because I had one backin the day with these kind of seats.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
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Today while driving I noticed a knocking when turning right or going over bumps in the road. I finally got to look under the truck and noticed that I'm missing the nut on the top side of the front stabilizer bar link bolt assembly on the passenger side.
It's a '99 Ranger XLT 4x4. Is this unsafe to drive? Is there a bushing on the top?
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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