What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
View 14 RepliesI've tried every variation of installing the timing belt on my '91 2.3L Ranger, still not in. The belt seems as if it's too short but I've been told that it "barely" fits, no kidding! I've pulled the crank balancer/timing trigger off and put it back on three or four times already. What's the trick? Everytime I get it close I'm off a tooth or more. Just frustrated, tired of hitching a ride to work.
View 14 RepliesIn a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
I have a 1996 Dodge Neon 2.0 SOHC that was over heating. I told my daughter not to drive it until I could work on it and find and fix the problem. Well, we all know how kids are. She continued to drive it and it eventually it broke down. Now here's what I have done. I found that the water pump bearing went bad and that is why it was over heating. This also caused the timing belt to break.
I replaced the water pump and put a timing belt on it. I only have compression in two cylinders and it won't start. I followed the instructions for installing the timing belt from the book. I think they may be wrong. What I need to know is how exactly to set the crank and cam before I install the timing belt. Looking for step by step instructions on how to set the crank and cam and install the belt?
I was wondering if the timing belt on my 05 RX 330 needed to be changed due to age and not miles. The car only has 72k miles on it but it is 10 years old.
View 5 RepliesSo after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
View 2 RepliesI just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
View 2 RepliesAfter timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
My dad changed the timing belt on my 99 CR-V in August and he had some trouble getting it in time (he had to tear down and put it back together 3 times!). Sometime after the timing belt/water pump/spark plug change, I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel while at a stop and a loss of MPG (went from getting 24 mpg to 22.7).
It did not happen immediately after the timing belt change (or at least i dont think it did) so i thought the mpg loss might be due to the changing weather and the vibration coming from a motor mount that i knew was broken, but I got the motor mount fixed and it did not do anything. I think that the vibration has gotten worse, but it seems to be at its worst when the car is really cold. (this morning the temp. was 9 degrees and it vibrated harder than it ever has).
The vibration only happens when the car is in park or at a stop, and it goes away when i accelerate, even if I only accelerate a little bit. I have not noticed a loss in power, or any sluggishness in acceleration. I have tried to research this, and I read something about the drive belt being out of time, but I'm not savvy with cars so I just don't know.
What could be the cause, do I HAVE to get it fixed, and what do you think a reasonable cost to repair is?
2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
View 12 RepliesMy mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120K miles that was bought used with 110K. The previous owner did not have the vehicle long and did not know if or when the timing belt had been replaced. I have read several blogs that recommend replacing the timing belt at 60 or 90K. To err on the conservative side I decided just to do it at 120K. Now my problem. Before the timing belt change there was a slight knocking from one of the cylinders. After the belt change the knocking is more pronounced. Q. How concerned should I be that the knocking is more noticeable? Could this be a by-product of the new belt and as it loosens the knocking will subside somewhat? OR, am I looking at valve job or worse?
View 8 RepliesWe just had our timing belt changed today as well as the waterpump and fanbelts. It has a loud whining noise now and I don't know if it is even safe to drive back to the mechanic...
View 3 Replies1987 Acura Integra AT with 158k... Water pump broke after 75k miles (in 18yr period)....
I am wondering what else should I have it done:
- thermostat
- oxygen sensor (is there one?)
- vacuum tubes (I hear that these fail due to age)
- anything else?
Are these near where they will be working on? Any other tips?
I have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
View 19 RepliesI purchased a 2005 Opel Corsa C 1.8l with around 70k miles. The car is in a fantastic shape, I've had it for around 6 months, having driven around 6k miles. The first maintenance I did was changing all oils and filters, and changing the accesory belt (the one that powers the alternator, that one is not dented). I was told back then at the workshop that the timing belt (not sure if that is the correct name for the belt with dents that syncs valves, etc.) was in a good shape. I don't know if the previous owner/s ever changed it. I understand that the damage done when that belt breaks could get pretty serious, with bent valves, mainly. The question is, should I change the belt now? How long do those last?
View 13 Replies2.5 Litre ... Okay, I've done this on other cars, both Fords without a problem but now I'm stuck on the no start situation. I have spark and my fuel pressure is 60 psi. About to do a compression test. Only issue with replacing the belt is that no matter how many times I try removing and installing it I'm always 1/2 tooth off after rotating the engine a couple of times but that shouldn't be enough for a complete no start. Tried starting fluid. Replaced cam sensor. new plugs. checked firing order. I have spark at #1 according to my test lamp which plugs inline.
View 6 RepliesI just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
View 14 Replies2000 Mazda Protege 1.6l Just replaced timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, plugs and coil packs
I have checked the timing about 10 times before puting everything back together by rotating the engin clockwise. No stiff point and marks lining up perfectly every time.
Though when I turn the key in the ignition, the engine cranks but doesn't start.
Can't really check the sparks cause I am on my own, but seems like the spark plugs in 1 and 3 are wet with fuel and 2 and 4 are dry.
I have a 2005 Standard 2.5 RS wagon - nice little car.
So with that in mind, I had a local garage (trusted...dealership in this area is notoriously crooked) replace my timing belt, tensioner, idlers, thermostat, and water-pump last week. I've had the car back for about 3 days and I just noticed today, that while the car is idling, I'm hearing a knocking noise coming from the engine somewhere (could be while I'm driving too, but maybe I just not hearing it) - I don't recall this sound before bringing it in for the work. When I rev up the engine a bit, it goes away, but when the car sits for a few minutes, it comes back.
I've already had it back in since the change for a defective tensioner, which the garage replaced free of charge. I plan on calling them first thing Monday morning to bring it in so they can have a look, but in the meantime, what this likely to be?