I am losing residual fuel pressure on my 1996 ranger 2wd, 3.0, V6. Acts fuel starved after sitting for awhile, cranks ok turn key off starts up, sometimes i have to do this twice.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
View 1 RepliesI was adding some fuel from a can to my Ranger last evening and I noticed gas was dripping on the ground. I traced it to, as best as I can tell, where the inlet pipe meets the tank.
Cannot see up there at all so not sure how it is attached. How I might be able to repair it without dropping the whole tank. Some kind of goop I can reach up there with and lather on to try and curb the leak?
My Ranger has been a great truck but over the last 18 months ther has been a intermitent problem with the fuel system. It would run out of fuel ( foaming spray to nothing at the fuel rail ) and if you let it sit it would start and run after 8 hrs to a couple of days. Now it is all the time. The last time I let it sit for a week in a parking lot and it started, let it warm up and turned it off to move my other truck and it would not start when I returned. I have changed the fuel pump 3 times, 2 fuel filters, relay and pressure reg. on fuel rail.
View 5 RepliesMy 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
View 2 RepliesI just had my codes pulled on a 96 ranger 2.3l came up with p1311 or p1131, couldn't quite see, but it said fuel air metering. What this might be, they said that a dealer would have to put it on a machine to narrow it down....
View 14 RepliesI've got 30 lbs of fuel pressure that drops to 28 if you rev it up a bit on a 1998 ranger 4.0 with a new fuel filter. Haynes manual say it should be 56-72 lbs. Bad news is fuel pressure regulator is in the tanks with the pump. Can the regulator be swapped out or is it one assembly with the fuel pump? Is there anything I should check first?
View 4 RepliesOk so my dad has been using my 98 while I was fixing his 92 4.0. I had the 92 perfect and then someone pulled in front of me and totaled it out. Well now I got my 98 back and it's all messed up. Check engine is on p0171. Fuel pressure test done and it's steady 40-42 psi. I remember last year I checked it was like 68-72 psi. It hasn't been a year or two since fuel pump and strainer were replaced. Filter probably 15,000 miles ago. It's currently running good sometimes it cuts off when you start it then next time it stays running. Is this another fuel pump failure? How much longer will it last on 40 psi? The fuel lines and tank have 336,000 miles, engine maybe 150,000 and injectors have about 20,000 miles on them.
View 4 RepliesMy fuel gauge is stuck at the full mark. What to check and where to start?
View 7 RepliesI have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
2001 Ranger, 108,000 miles, good regular maintenance per the Ford Schedule. 4.0L manual trans.
I changed the fuel filter 20,000 miles ago. This has been a recurring issue anytime my fuel level was low, about 1/4 tank or less, and when the truck was warmed up, hot. The fix in the past was to add fuel and let the truck sit for awhile. Now, today I drove home for lunch and when I tried to start the truck to return to work, it wouldn't start.
Same conditions, low fuel level and it was warmed up. The engine will turn over and start to run with ether in the air box, so it's definitely fuel related. A fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve got a zero reading, not even a flicker, and no residual pressure after shut off.
Could this be only a fuel pressure regulator issue? Or should I prepare to replace the fuel pump? Is there a fuse that might be blown?
I have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0. Was wondering where the fuel pressure regulator is located on it. I like pictures.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 in it. Trying to find where the fuel injection pressure damper is located. I was told it's on the fuel rail. Just making sure I'm looking at the right thing.
View 3 RepliesMade a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
1999 3.0. Been losing coolant internally. No water in the oil. Been back and forth on doing a full engine swap (its got 250k on it). So finally decided to just try the head gaskets. Anything out of the ordinary on these? Anything to look out for? Any special tools?
View 14 Replies97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
View 14 RepliesOk I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?