Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Transmission Slipping When Cold
Jan 7, 2015
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with 95k miles on it. Recently, my truck's automatic transmission has been slipping really bad. I'll be driving down my road and while going around a turn, the clutch feels like it randomly disengages, so when I press on the gas, it feels like I'm revving my truck in neutral, and then it will all of a sudden get back into gear, violently a lot of the time. However, once the truck is warmed up, the it runs perfectly and never slips. I've checked my oil multiple times and even changed the oil filter in the transmission. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but if I let my truck idle in park for a little bit, the RPMs will increase and if I shift in to reverse or drive while the RPMs are high, it'll do the same thing.
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I'm having trouble with my auto tranny again. it is a 4r44e and is in a 1999 3.0 flex 2wd extended cab. It will not pull in reverse, seems to be slipping bad, and it won't pull in forward gears unless you switch OD off. Then it seems to pull fine but still not in reverse. I haven't drove it very much to see on changing gears and such for fear of burning it up.
Fluid is still like new no codes showing just started out of the blue while my son was driving. All electrical is hooked up tight and no leaks fluid is little overfull but not much. I am going outside now to adjust intermediate band to spec. had trouble with overdrive that had everybody stumped if you remember and it was overdrive band adjustment so going that route first.
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Will the transmission from a 2000 fit a 96? They're both 3.0's.
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I own a 1996 XL Ford Ranger 2wd 5 speed manual.
Last week I had it in for some service, which included bleeding the clutch lines and new fluid.
Since then when putting it in reverse the transmission grids. It is also very difficult to get into first gear - I really have to shove hard on the stick.
Better Description of symptoms: When the vehicle is moving it shifts fine. When I come to a stop, put it in neutral and let out on the clutch, it is then very difficult to get back into first gear. If I leave the clutch in, fter I come to a stop, I can shift around to all the gears no problem. It's only when I let out on the clutch, then push it back in to shift into first is the difficult part.
With reverse, I have to move ahead a bit, THEN I can shift to reverse without the grinding noise. I talked to my mechanic who check to ensure the fluid was NOT low (it wasn't) and no air bubble existed in the line. After that was checked, he said the clutch is worn and has to be replaced.
Well, then, why wasn't it doing this BEFORE I had him bleed the lines? It started the day I picked the truck up from service. He recommends the following to fix the problem...
- slave cylinder
- new line
- disc
- preasure
I am asking why this would happen after he bleed the lines? Is there another problem that can cause this?
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
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My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
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I have a 99 Ranger 3.0L automatic, ext cab, 2 wheel drive. Door sticker show code "T" which I looked up as the 4R44E. The trans seems to be slipping in 1st and 2nd. Thought it was "reared shudder", from a "limited slip" differential but mine is not limited slip. just the regular 8.8 with 373 gears.
Wanting to know what if any options I have for buying a new / rebuilt tranny? I've seen where depending upon the year and motor, Ranger can have 4r44e, 4r55e, 5r55e, etc.
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1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
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I've been driving a 96 Corolla into the ground for the past 5 or 6 years and recently it's been having overheating issues. It has overheated to the point of steam twice now, and I'm worried at this point I've fried the engine or transmission.
I regularly check the radiator fluids and oil thinking that these would solve the issue, but alas it happened again today ten fold.
While driving home in hot southern california today I first noticed my transmission slipping in traffic. It was slipping when I started moving in stop and go, and settled in once I was going 30 or 40 miles per hour. I had my puppy in the car and was only a few minutes from home so I thought it would be fine, otherwise I would have pulled over immediately.As I got closer the problem got worse to the point where I could no longer shift and move forward. I over revved the engine to get it into a safe spot and it overheated. After waiting 40 minutes I checked on the Transmission fluid (checked unrunning) and it was bone dry. The radiator was full with coolant and oil levels looked good. I put as much transmission fluid as I had in my trunk (not much) back into the car, started it and got the car up the few more blocks I had to go. On the way it was still slipping, at the severity it had to begin with.
My question to you is do you think the transmission is totally shot and I need an overhaul? Or is there some hope that it may have been overheating because it needs a flush/drain and new transmission fluid? The car is at 136k miles and has had a replaced radiator in the past year.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
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My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
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I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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I am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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