Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Squeaky Rear Wheels
Jul 3, 2015
I am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
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I have a 1996 ford ranger and i have no tail lights i have license plate lights, brake lights, Hazard and turn signals. But no running lights on the rear end. Where the grounds are for this circuit and if some one has a schematic for this ranger...
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i have a 96 ranger 2wd with a 2.3l engine and a 5 spd manual. everything works except the rear diff whines a little under load. putting new bearings in doesn't look to difficult that's what i will plan on doing but first i need to take the cover off and need to know what fluid to put in?
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My problem is wih my 1996 Ford Ranger XLT 6Cyl. 4.0L 2WD Recntly it started shaking violently in the rear as I drive down the road any road. Mainly slow to about 50MPH or slower, it just starts to shake really hard and then it stops then out of the blue it will do it again I thought it might be the back Drums maybe the shoes came apart and were catching but they are fine everything looks fine, could it be the gearbox on the axle? I don't know...
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 with 113,000 and have had it for around 2 years. After I bought it I noticed a grinding sound that appeared to come from the front wheels during braking. On my old 97 Ranger I noticed the same sound and had to replace both rotors because the pads had worn to the rivets! So I pulled the front wheels and found I had about 1/2 inch of pad left and the rotors were shiny on both sides. I recently checked them again and a little less pad but the rotors are still shiny. The pads haven't worn far enough to get to the squealer bars yet.
The sound is like the metal on metal sound some have described during all phases of driving but this only occurs intermittently while braking. It doesn't matter if its light braking or heavy it sounds the same when it does it. I do think I may have a warped rotor on at least one side as the truck shakes some when I apply the brakes, especially at higher speed. I have not checked my front bearings visually but there doesn't appear to be much play if any doing a wheel shake test. What it could be and could it be related to a warped rotor?
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'94 Ranger with aluminum wheels.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask. I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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After a transmission flush, my husband's Ford Ranger rear wheels have locked when backing out of the garage; pulling out of a parking spot; and driving down a hill.
He had checked the transmission fluid level, and it was a little high. The shop drained it down to where it should be, said the fluid was discolored, and sent him on his way. But it has happened again since then.
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My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
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I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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My 1996 Ranger Supercab XLT has the stock radio with 6-cd changer. The unit works fine but only the frequency/clock display lights up. I'm not sure where to start to fix it.
When a problem first occurred, the frequency/clock display flickered/dimmed randomly (and I think the other lights were fine). It was in the shop a few times for a fuel pump problem (the after market pump was actually not compatible and it took a bit to figure that out), and at some point after I got it back I noticed the display was fine but the remainder of lights didn't work.
I don't know if the shop did something or the failure behavior changed. What to look at? I can open the radio and fix that if needed (or replace it).
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I have been hauling a lot of garbage with my 96 ranger this last week. The differential has been making a little more than usual noise like growling, but it has always been smooth, now all of a sudden it shakes like a tire out of balance up to about 55 then it is like a switch is thrown and everything quiets down and the shaking goes away, until i get around 55. I haven't climbed under the truck yet just checked the tires and grabbed the drive line they are all ok,i don't see any leaks so it is a head scratcher. Hopefully it will be something easy, but it hardly ever is.
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with 95k miles on it. Recently, my truck's automatic transmission has been slipping really bad. I'll be driving down my road and while going around a turn, the clutch feels like it randomly disengages, so when I press on the gas, it feels like I'm revving my truck in neutral, and then it will all of a sudden get back into gear, violently a lot of the time. However, once the truck is warmed up, the it runs perfectly and never slips. I've checked my oil multiple times and even changed the oil filter in the transmission. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but if I let my truck idle in park for a little bit, the RPMs will increase and if I shift in to reverse or drive while the RPMs are high, it'll do the same thing.
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My son just purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3l 5 speed it is a nice little truck. But I have a question when you press in the clutch it acts like the choke has come on it idles way to high. When you come to a complete stop it is a few minutes before it goes back to its regular idle. Is it suppose to do that?
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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