There's a small but clearly audible chirping/squeak coming from my truck whenever I pull out. It goes away after the truck gets hot, but for the first 10 minutes or so, it squeaks only when moving. Not at idle. It is worse at low RPM's in 1st gear. And it's particularly bad in the mornings. I was thinking it is something in the idler pulley or the belt tensioner.
View 7 RepliesI have a slight squeak noise that is only heard at idle some of the time. I replaced the belt, idler, and tensioner when I noticed just spinning the alternator gives the sound I'm hearing. Is it something I should be concerned about? It isn't noisy all the time, only sometimes. I don't want to fix what isn't broken, but I don't want it to leave me stranded one day either.
View 3 RepliesOk, basic rundown. Stop at a red light, turns green, when i go it gives a strange grindy-growl from the rear. Lasts maybe 2 seconds then its gone. its very uncommon. But it is something i am interested in getting figured out. Doesn't happen any other time, only on complete stops.
View 2 RepliesI've been through this same scenario quite a few times before but I cannot narrow it down to the exact problem. I've got this 1998 Ranger that's maintained well, tune-ups, oil changes, and everything else maintenance wise. The past few months randomly driving anywhere from 200-300 miles every once and awhile it would hesitate taking off from a stop or accelerating after letting off the gas. It would throw up a P0171 code so I thought the fuel pump was bad. So I replaced with a new fuel pump assembly. That worked, fuel pressure is now within specs. 65-69psi. Still every 200-300 miles it would throw up a P0171 code, then a few weeks ago it kept coming up more frequently.
I found out it was a broken vacuum hose from the purge valve to the intake manifold tube so I replaced it. Now it doesn't come on anymore. But before I noticed that hose I assumed the mass air flow sensor was bad so I cleaned it with CRC Mass Air Flow cleaner. Since that time it's gotten worse and now stumbles and hesitates every time you stop and takeoff. Sometimes it even chokes the motor out with the a/c on and you come to a stop. I knew the ignition coil also causes the same issues so I checked them. The front coil pack had a burned electrode leading to number 4 cylinder intake side. I replaced the coil cleaned that end of the wire and it still is stumbling and hesitating. I tried the trick of unplugging the mass air flow sensor and driving to see if it was better. No change at all.
After I replaced the coil a few minutes ago I test drove it and stopped and then turned a corner and gave it full throttle with a/c on and it actually shut off. But still there is no check engine light and no codes present. What's going on? I looked at the back coil and didn't see any corroded terminals. It started happening all the time upon takeoff right after I cleaned the mass air flow. But when I unplugged the sensor and drove it around nothing changed at all. Is there something else to check? I had the timing belt changed last week and had the shop check to see if timing is good and they said it was right on. It still drive good you just have to tap the gas twice when you take off to overcome the stumbling.
I've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
I have a 1999 ranger 3.0 4x4 automatic the truck has a delay when put into drive sometimes it slips at take off unless I force it to downshift and stay in first and from second to third gear it shifts very hard at around 3500 rpm would an oil and filter change. I do not have the cash for a new trans and I can't afford a new truck. I love my little ranger...
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 ranger 4.0 and about a year after getting it the belt started to squeak so far if have replaced the belt, replaced the tensioner, and cleaned and wire brushed all the pulleys to remove glazing. And it still squeaks and its annoying and kinda embarrassing...
View 4 RepliesMy '02 4x2 has developed this half scrape half squeak noise in drive. 140k, 55RE trans, all original drivetrain. It sounds like someone wrapped a wire coat hanger to the driveshaft. (No, I looked). It seems to be in sync with the speed of the shaft or wheels. U-joint maybe? If I have to take it to a garage I'd like to have some clue what to tell them to look for.
View 4 RepliesI've got an '08 FX4 that has developed quite a loud and annoying squeak from the rear leaf springs. It happens when I'm slowly applying power and going over bumps such as speed bumps or similar. More so when I'm going up hill.
I initially thought it was a u-joint going bad, and had my driveline mechanic take a look at it. He discovered it was the rear leafs making the noise. He sprayed them with an aerosol light grease and the noise was instantly gone. The problem is, the noise comes back after the grease spray has worn off (usually after driving in the rain) which happens a lot in the Vancouver area.
This is my 3rd Ranger and I have never had this problem. I don't drive in unusual places (beach, sandy, dusty areas) so I don't know why this is happening. It does look rusty in the areas that I can see in between the individual leafs. Is this a common problem for this vintage of Ranger?
In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
I have a 2003 f150 with a 4.2 v6 2wd and about 116 on the clock.
It has this annoying, faint squeek whenever i hit bumps in the road. Sort of sounds like bird chirps. I cannot reproduce it if I bounce on it while parked.
One rainy day I tried to show a friend and it would not make the sound it seemed. Therefore I think its exterior, although it almost sounds inside.
Today I sprayed down all the rubber joints under the front end with silicone spray. It still squeaked while driving afterwards.
I should note that a ford dealer claimed the ball joints were worn and needed to be replaced. Although, would a ball joint make bird chirp type squeaks while driving at most speeds (20mph - highway speeds)? It does not intensify or change at any particular speed.
My understanding is that a bad ball joint would grind when turning the wheel or clunk while traveling over speed bumps or something similar.
I have a 2003 f150 with a 4.2 v6 2wd and about 116 on the clock.
It has this annoying, faint squeak whenever i hit bumps in the road. Sort've sounds like bird chirps. I cannot reproduce it if I bounce on it while parked.
One rainy day I tried to show a friend and it would not make the sound it seemed. Therefore I think its exterior, although it almost sounds inside.
Today I sprayed down all the rubber joints under the front end with silicone spray. It still squeaked while driving afterwards. How else can I go about diagnosing this?
I should note that a ford dealer claimed the ball joints were worn and needed to be replaced. Although, would a ball joint make bird chirp type squeaks while driving at most speeds (20mph - highway speeds)? It does not intensify or change at any particular speed.
My understanding is that a bad ball joint would grind when turning the wheel or clunk while traveling over speed bumps or something similar.
2011 Ford F350, 69K miles... Just started, at about 30mph. I am hearing a Chirp from the front, speeds up when I speed up and goes away with brakes or slow below 30.
Friend thinks its the brake warning telling me its time for new. Bugging me. Just started. Never changed brakes.
I have a 2000 mountaineer 5.0 that has a chirp/squeak when its cold and goes away once warmed up good occasionally. I have replaced the belt, alternator and manually spun all the idler pullies, water pump, ac and tensioner. Nothing squeaks. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to make this noise?
View 14 RepliesMy 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
View 4 RepliesI seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
View 2 RepliesSo last night I washed the R, pulled it out of the garage to squeegee the floor, and brought it back in. Then I heard this weird squeak chirp sound... tracked it to of all places, the engine compartment of my R! Thought I had a mouse in there.. didn't find anything.
So tonight I took the wife out for supper. Got home, parked the R, same sound, but only faster! Here's a video of the sound, sounds like it's coming from the engine bay for sure. Weird, right? I did some googling and didn't find anything else. Seems like it must slow down when it's colder. Because last night it was once every 30 seconds or so.
I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
View 6 Replies