Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Motor Seems To Stumble When Going Through Gears
Jun 12, 2017
1996 Ranger 2.3. I bought it from a friend 2 months ago. 228,866 miles. The motor seems to stumble as I'm going through the gears. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and installed new air filter. Check engine light has always been on, O'Reillys hooked up their computer to it and said Emission Valve Malfunction. I see the charcoal canister, then I have 2 electrical sensors on same line. First one from canister looks like what Rockauto.com shows as a Vapor Canister Purge Valve. The photo has it with a yellow orangeish top. I don't know what this 2nd sensor is. It has a blue top.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
My MILaw Truck 1992 ranger isnt running good and I need to get it going
Only a P0111 at this time IIRC
We started the truck tonight and idel ok Could see the motor Stumble every so often. She went to drive it and it Cuts out under Load Or you must rev it up to keep it from Stalling.
And if it does Cut out you have to let it sit for 5 minutes to restart what is Weird is it dont Smell Flooded either I smelled the VAC Line to the FPR and it was DRY and Did NOT Smell like Fuel.
It was dark didnt do much trouble shoot as the Flashlight died. I wonder about Fuel Filters. And Also about the Idel Control. The Mis or Stumble seams Random
Any testing I can do I have a DVM and that Code Reader. Might have to find something to check fuel press with where would I check it at the fuel rail I assume. Going to try and go over the Basics tomorrow If there is Anything Specific I should check?
View 14 Replies
OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
View 5 Replies
Im getting an intermittent stumble with a check engine light. I have a 1990 Ranger XLT with a 2.3L 5spd. I pulled the codes 32 41 88. I looked them up but Im not sure what to check next. I have done much searching on several sites but havent found much. OBD-1 eludes me.
32(R)EVP - EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
41System Indicates Lean
88 Loss Of Dual Plug Input Control c ..
What does it all mean??? What would you check next?
View 7 Replies
1988 4.0 - noticed fuel mileage going down and an occasional stumble for a while but now I am getting some black smoke more when I let off the throttle than when I going down the road if I rev the truck get all kind of black soot all over the floor otherwise runs fine idles fine the iac has been replaced air filter replaced check the fuel pressure regulator for any gas leaking into the vacuum line and its clean.
View 14 Replies
1987 Ranger and the computer will not communicate. I'm trying to check for codes because of a rough idle and stumble when starting out from a stop. Check engine works but won't flash when using a jumper across the data link. Used a OTC scanner but it only times out and comes up "no data". Where to go from here?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2002 ford ranger edge. swb, 3.0L, 5spd. I have been noticing it is getting harder to shift gears, put in 1st at a stop light lately. There is no grinding just seems harder to engage. Checked fluid level and it is clean and full. Recently i have developed a vibration under power. Let off the gas and smooth as can be, apply throttle and starts vibrating. Not sure if flywheel is "hot spotted" or perhaps broke a spring on pressure disk. Just seems odd it's only under throttle. Yes already checked rear end and U-joints.
View 2 Replies
I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
View 6 Replies
I've been having problems with my column shifter ever since I installed a Pioneer shift cable probably about 3 years now. I was told and also thought that the cable would loosen up after awhile but it never has. I had some put it on and I watched him do it. He seemed to have some trouble because it took him a long time under the dash. It shifts so stiff that over a period of about 2 years it finally broke the end of the shift tube one night. Luckily I was able to fix it the next day by getting a spare without missing any down time. It was still just as stiff with the other shift tube. It finally broke the plastic on my shifter tonight, not necessarily whatever is causing it but because it takes so much effort to shift into Park, Reverse or Drive.
I think the plastic may have cracked over time. Luckily I had another one at home along with another shift tube. I didn't replace the shift tube this time but I did remove the caps and smear some grease on the bushings to see if it would make it turn. I looked further down at the end cap that broke last time and sure enough one of the bolts was backed almost all the way out. I retightened it tonight too. That's what happened when the bottom broke last time. One of those bolts backed out and it cracked the housing. It works now but if you go all the way to 1st to get back to anywhere it really takes a tremendous amount of effort to get it to shift. Something is not right and I cannot pinpoint it. I know they offer brand new shift tubes but I'm not sure if that's the problem.
View 2 Replies
My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
View 2 Replies
I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 Replies
1997 2.3 5 Speed. My poor truck is having a hard time shifting into gears. I have bled the master off the truck with the correct method, bled it on the truck with the hose on the slave method while pushing the pedal and multiple times with no bubbles coming out at all, no leaks, etc.
Here's the breakdown -
- Clutch, slave cylinder and shifter bushings replaced about 3 years ago (everything has less than 7000 miles on it)
- While driving and pushing in the clutch, it clearly disengages, although quite a ways down.
- Only shifts hard while running. If I sit with it off with the clutch in, I can shift through all the gears with no effort whatsoever. At times while driving, it gets so hard to shift that it may become dangerous.
- Only things I haven't replaced are the master cylinder and the flywheel.
Should I just assume a bad master and just replace it? It's the original with 188,200 miles on it.
Forgot to mention there are times that when I am at a standstill trying to go into reverse, it grinds like the transmission is still engaged.
View 4 Replies
My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
View 9 Replies
I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
View 1 Replies
I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
View 4 Replies
I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
View 2 Replies
1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
View 6 Replies
How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
View 3 Replies
I just changed my front brakes in my 05 Ranger. New rotors, pads, bearings (packed), racers, new caliper on driver side, bleed all for brakes. Now when I am just about to stop it feels like the left front is grabbing. I also hear the ABS motor humming when it grabbs. Don't whats causing it?
View 4 Replies
I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
View 6 Replies
I am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
View 2 Replies
