Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Fuel Gauge Stuck At Full Mark?
Jun 25, 2013
My fuel gauge is stuck at the full mark. What to check and where to start?
View 7 RepliesMy fuel gauge is stuck at the full mark. What to check and where to start?
View 7 RepliesThe last two fill-ups I have noticed the fule gauge only goes to the last small mark before the "full" line. I haven't hit any thing under the car. It can be slow to fill but I know it's full.....like really full, to the small filler hole full . Is there a way to reset the fuel gauge limits with a Vag-Com?
View 5 RepliesOver the past approx 3 weeks Ive noticed that my gas gauge stops at about the mark half way between 3/4s and full now. Previously when I would fill the tank it would go about 1 click beyond full. Today,with the needle damn near on empty I filled up and it only took 9.13 gallons. During this same time span I am only avg approx 17mpg where prior i was getting over 23/24 mpg.
View 3 RepliesI have noticed when I turn the key on the needle moves down just a touch but goes back to full. I have disconnected the wiring harness for the fuel tank and reconnected it. I have tried tracing the harness back towards the front but no luck yet. I'm guessing it's a bad ground or something. And if so what was the solution.
View 5 RepliesGas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
View 6 RepliesWell besides the pyro breaking friday BEFORE live tuning,and the exhaust leak I gained on the way to Texas(not inpart of the pyro not working). Now the fuel gauge is stuck on full. It looks good,200+ miles and still on full. Could it be the gauge,or possibly just the sending unit? Maybe a fuse?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
View 1 RepliesI am having a "made you look moment" that I thought was a blessing only to figure shortly after that it was just a very very evil joke. So what happen was I turn my car on after it has been sitting for about an hour and half in the shade in 80-90 degree breezy weather, the fuel guage decided that my half tank of gas was not enough and so it figured out a way to osmosis itself and create a full tank instead. Even my miles to empty rose too at the same time. the odd part was all I did was turn the car on to idle.
What gives? I have a new gas cap so its for sure not that, there is gas in the tank too. At first i thought it might be the floater in the tank getting stuck on something but then I thought it may be fumes from the heat causing a pressure build up. So I decided to drive the car to see if any change would occur and it did. It was dropping from full down a 1/4 then stayed there. I figured if I gas it a tad more it might suck up the fuel fumes or something and sure enough it did. It dropped back down to the original amount.
I have a 2005 camry le the fuel gauge stuck on the full half.
View 2 RepliesThe fuel gauge in my 1999 Corolla is stuck on Full. My mechanic says it's the fuel sending unit and will cost $250 to replace. But today, the low fuel warning light came on and it appears to be functioning properly. Does the warning light use a different sensor or does that mean the fuel sending unit is working and the gauge problem is elsewhere?
View 5 RepliesFilled the gas tank as full as I could get it. Done this many times. Now the fuel gauge is stuck on (F) full.
View 1 RepliesI was involved in a collision and had my 2005 Prius (direct from Japan import) in a collision repair shop. The shop performed the necessary electronic checks and fixed the superficial damage to the Prius. After a time, the car was completed and I drove it off-the petrol gauge was at the half tank mark.
One week later, driving 80k (~50m) a day, my gas gauge is still at the half tank mark. I decided to fill up the tank. I paid for what seemed to be almost a full tank price...and the gas gauge increased by one increment only. It still hovers at one bar over the half mark.
Scouring the web, and this site, I found a fuel calibration protocol. Here it is .....
How to reset or power down the f sport gauge? My fuel gauge is stuck at full for past few days. Its been stuck before but eventually came back within few minutes.
View 7 RepliesMy ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
Took my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 96' ranger that has been missing quite regularly. The vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it, but has been taken care of regularly by me since 75,000.
Problem: When I start the vehicle, the engine takes a little bit to find the idle. It spits and fumbles around some until it finds a somewhat rough idle. Often, when I first start driving in the morning, the vehicle really jumps around due to misfiring. Even after running smoothly for awhile, the vehicle with sporadically misfire with no rhyme or reason. This is particularly true when climbing a grade. When sitting at a red light and idleing in gear, you can definitely feel the truck shaking from side to side. Also, when idling in gear, the battery gauge on the dash fluctuates, but when the vehicle is in park the battery gauge doesn't fluctuate...it just idles a little rough.
I had the Ranger to a garage and had them check the battery and alternator connections and ground to try and figure out what is making the battery gauge fluctuate...alternator and battery checked out...no diagnosis for fluctuation.
I replaced all plugs and wires and also checked the coil pack. One of the coils (#6) had some build-up in the top. I cleaned it out and replaced all the plug wires and everything snapped in place and fit fine.
The garage did tell me that an error code came up with the EGR valve and or sensor. They didn't seem to concerned about it. Do the EGR valve could be the cause of all the stuttering and misfiring going on with the ranger? I really don't know where else to look. Maybe replace the coil pack?
I was adding some fuel from a can to my Ranger last evening and I noticed gas was dripping on the ground. I traced it to, as best as I can tell, where the inlet pipe meets the tank.
Cannot see up there at all so not sure how it is attached. How I might be able to repair it without dropping the whole tank. Some kind of goop I can reach up there with and lather on to try and curb the leak?
I am losing residual fuel pressure on my 1996 ranger 2wd, 3.0, V6. Acts fuel starved after sitting for awhile, cranks ok turn key off starts up, sometimes i have to do this twice.
View 7 RepliesMy Ranger has been a great truck but over the last 18 months ther has been a intermitent problem with the fuel system. It would run out of fuel ( foaming spray to nothing at the fuel rail ) and if you let it sit it would start and run after 8 hrs to a couple of days. Now it is all the time. The last time I let it sit for a week in a parking lot and it started, let it warm up and turned it off to move my other truck and it would not start when I returned. I have changed the fuel pump 3 times, 2 fuel filters, relay and pressure reg. on fuel rail.
View 5 Replies