Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Battery Gauge Jumps To High Around 4000 RPM
Mar 28, 2017
I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
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I have a 96' ranger that has been missing quite regularly. The vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it, but has been taken care of regularly by me since 75,000.
Problem: When I start the vehicle, the engine takes a little bit to find the idle. It spits and fumbles around some until it finds a somewhat rough idle. Often, when I first start driving in the morning, the vehicle really jumps around due to misfiring. Even after running smoothly for awhile, the vehicle with sporadically misfire with no rhyme or reason. This is particularly true when climbing a grade. When sitting at a red light and idleing in gear, you can definitely feel the truck shaking from side to side. Also, when idling in gear, the battery gauge on the dash fluctuates, but when the vehicle is in park the battery gauge doesn't fluctuate...it just idles a little rough.
I had the Ranger to a garage and had them check the battery and alternator connections and ground to try and figure out what is making the battery gauge fluctuate...alternator and battery checked out...no diagnosis for fluctuation.
I replaced all plugs and wires and also checked the coil pack. One of the coils (#6) had some build-up in the top. I cleaned it out and replaced all the plug wires and everything snapped in place and fit fine.
The garage did tell me that an error code came up with the EGR valve and or sensor. They didn't seem to concerned about it. Do the EGR valve could be the cause of all the stuttering and misfiring going on with the ranger? I really don't know where else to look. Maybe replace the coil pack?
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I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
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Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
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My fuel gauge is stuck at the full mark. What to check and where to start?
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My son just purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3l 5 speed it is a nice little truck. But I have a question when you press in the clutch it acts like the choke has come on it idles way to high. When you come to a complete stop it is a few minutes before it goes back to its regular idle. Is it suppose to do that?
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my 03 ranger 4.0l was working properly and all of a sudden I am having an issue. The battery light is on, and the volt gauge is just above L. With my multi-meter I am showing 14 volts on the output stud on the alternator, and 13.5 volts at the battery while idling. When I turn the lights/fan on I show minimal draw at the battery. Not sure if these are good checks but I figured a good place to start. Where/what should I begin checking?
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I just bought this Ranger a really bad steering issue. When at low speeds, when I go to turn the steering "jumps/kicks." Then after I straighten out at the end of the turn it jumps in the direction that the steering wheel is being turned. This goes away at higher speeds (40+mph).
I was told by the seller that it needs a new steering pump, but my mechanic said that it was operating well. He noticed that the bearings were loose on the driver side and tightened them up. The problem went away. I just finished driving it for about 20 miles and the problem is back.
What do you think? Is there a way to easily shut off the p-steering to see if that is the problem? Is this a good idea?
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My truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
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2002 Ranger 2.3 duratec ... My Oil Needle jumps around from center to zero. (I am aware this could be/is a dummy light style). There is a Pressure switch attached to oil filter housing, I thought this was oil pressure sender. The pressure switch I was sold is cylinder with single prong connector. Not matching the sensor on oil filter housing. What sensor is on my oil filter housing? Also where is my oil pressure sender?
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There is a mile of downhill on my way to work every day. I oberseved that when I step on the brake to slow down, the RPM jumps from 2000 to 4000 all of a sudden and stay there for a few second. Without my foot on the brake, the tachometer stays around 2000 rpm. Is it normal? Why does the engine do this?
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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I have a 96 Ranger 3.0 auto that is hitting 300,000 miles. I've got a 302 that i build for my F150 but know i'm thinking of transplating it in the Ranger. Is it a big deal in putting a SB in place of the V6.
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I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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I am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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