I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder and the other day on my way home all of a sudden sounded like a lawnmower, it was very sluggish and would take twice as long to get moving,it also smelled like gas and I used a quarter of a tank in about 24 miles. Someone said it could be the ignition coils...
View 5 RepliesJust picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
View 1 RepliesAllright, I seem to be having these very strange sounds at idle. Mostly when I am in Drive and waiting at a red light. In Park, it isn't as bad it seems.
One sound is knocking. A kinda slow one and irregular. Not a motor knock tho. Doesn't sound like that. It also kinda clicks from under. So, those both sounds come from under or the sides of the truck.
Should I worry about this? I've had these sounds since I've got the truck. Sometimes louder than usuall.
After about 1 minute after starting the truck it sounds like the fan belt is squealing..(below 30 deg outside) Only its not the fan belt as I replaced it. Does not do it when it is engine is operating temperature. Have checked all of the Pulleys which seem to be all right. The frequency of the squealing sound is about 1/3 the engine RPM and will go away above 2k when it does do it. Stopping at a stop light after about 45 seconds it really starts to get loud. Can a Fan Clutch do this.. I beleive that this engine has a timing chain right?
View 8 RepliesI have a noise in my rear end, if I grab the bed of the truck, and rock the body back and forth, I hear a clunk, almost sounds like a wheel is loose, but checked them, all good, also checked the U-joints, and pulled the driveshaft to grease the spindle. Thinking it could be in the third member, maybe the Differential pinion shaft, or the lock bolt......
View 3 RepliesI have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
View 3 RepliesI replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
When I turn on my heater full blast the most god awful squealing commences. Where to start spraying the grease?
View 10 Replies1995 Ford 4.0 ... All the following have been replaced on the truck.
High Pressure Fuel Pump and assembly
Idle Air Control Valve
Spark Plugs
Oxygen sensor (Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen)
Fuel Filter
The most recent item that I replaced is:
Coil Pack
Spark Plug Wires
Now, with the Coil Pack replacement, the truck drives good, as long as I do not floor it (After it heats up, about 15 minutes). Basically, if I try to pass someone, the truck acts as if it is chocking out, like it is not getting any fuel.
Before replacing the Coil Pack. It would chock out at any given time, rather just barely pressing the gas peddle, or just sitting idle.
I took it to a friends muffler shop, and he stated that it is not the exhaust that is causing the issue. I am at a loss. Is there anything else that I can check?
The truck seems to drive fine, as long as I do not get down on it, and try to take off fast after it heats up. When it is cold, I can take off like a bat out of hell, and it runs like no-ones business.
I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
View 3 RepliesI am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
View 1 RepliesHad the top half of the intake off (2.3L) and fixed some vacuum leaks and replaced a power steering pump. Started truck and it ran funny like missing on one cylinder then cleared up then started making a loud knocking noise and running rough. Assumed that it swallowed something when I had the intake off and it got into a valve or into the cylinder. I pulled the plugs and there are no obvious signs of a problem. I also did a compression test and all 4 were around 150psi.
Put the plugs back in and started it and the same noise was there. Removed the serpent belt just in case it was power steering pump related and the noise was still there when I started the truck. Sounds like something is inside the engine still. Going to get a friends bore scope to check further. I guess I will split the manifold again and run the scope in there. Pending that I may also look down the plug holes with the scope. This is a major bummer. Not what I needed.
I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
I have a 95 4.0 EFI inside of my 83 Ranger. Once the motor warms up, it starts to have an idle issue. I have to press the gas, in order for it not to cut off. Here is a video I posted a while back. A person suggested that it could be the MAF needed to be cleaned. I did that, and it did not work.
View 9 RepliesMy Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking. This thing has 253k on it.....
View 6 Replies. I'm going to FINALLY change the tranny fluid in my 95 Ranger Splash this weekend and need all the feedback I can get! It's a manual trans with miles shy of the 250,000 mark...still on the original stuff!! I'm only the 2nd owner but I bought the truck with just 45,000 miles on her so I'm willing to bet the farm that it's never been changed. It's getting harder to shift from 1st to 2nd and I'm getting a little bit of grinding from 3rd to 4th if I shift too fast. Reading all the threads everywhere online, so many different people have so many different theories from stock Mercon V to MOTOR OIL??? The motor oil thing floored me but I understand the viscosity difference between hydraulic fluid and lubricating oil. figure out what the best thing to replace the original with to prolong the life of this long running wonder vehicle!
View 5 RepliesWhat are the steps to fix a broken odometer on a 1995 Ranger? I assume it is probably the gears. The truck has 169 k.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking... This thing has 253k on it...
View 4 RepliesFor the last 2 years 1995 ranger 2.3 will run great but every 1-3 months will just stall. Will than try to start it for a couple of minutes and in 1-8 minutes will start back up again as if nothing was wrong and then be fine for another week, month, 2 months etc. It has never happened at first start up in the morning but at times will stall 2 minutes after start (at traffic light of course). At times will turn off to run into store, come outside, no start, try for couple of minutes and then starts up fine. Changed out fuel pump, etc, etc. Biggest problem is no codes and, of course, when mechanic looks at it nothing is wrong.
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