Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 Mazda B4000 - 4wd Light Blinking 6X Then Go Off
Dec 31, 2013
So i just bought a b4000 pickup 5spd .. Anyway the truck has eletrical 4x4 with manual hubs. When i turn the switch nothing happens. The 4wd/4wd low lights both flash 6x then go off then flash again while running , driving, koeo, anytime like an obd1 check engine light code flashing. Anyway i checked the wiring for the 4wd switch no power, went to the fuse interior no pwr, went to the engine fuse box power. You don't hear the transfer case engage at all as well.
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So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
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I have a 2000 b 4000 broken armrest trying everything to fix keeps breaking on plastic below. And how long before it breaks again!!! Ford ....
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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This interference correlates directly to tire rotation speed, engine rpm has no effect. Under about 5mph it won't make the noise, but over that you hear a pop more or less for every rotation of the tire and when you hit say 50mph it is just a steady static noise on AM only. Haven't pulled the head unit yet, checked several body grounds under the hood and all are good. Don't know if a damaged wheel sensor could cause an issue or not.
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I have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
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I've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
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I have a 98 Ranger 2wd reg cab 2.3L 5sp. Recently the airbag warning light was blinking 2-7 which indicates bad lamp in passenger airbag deactivation switch. Since the lamp has no numbers or markings on it, and my repair manual has no schematic on that part, where I can find the ma, wattage or ohm rating of the lamp? Or a part number / source for a replacement lamp?
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I just bought an older 1995 Ranger XLT 4.0 I was told that the truck is stuck in overdrive. The overdrive light is not working and the button does not respond. It shifts smooth but run away with it's self. It is not shifting a lot going up hill and curves.
I got a diagnostic and it did not show codes. I was told the trani has had an oil change and filter with no metal parts in the oil. Since the overdrive switch is know for a short in the steering column maybe when they looked at it they did not know what they were doing.
I am driving it only once or so a week. But don't want to hurt it. A friend did the first work and had it diagnostic done yesterday.
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After having my whole clutch system replaced..the truck now hesitates after 25mph shift 35, 45 and so, on it does not have a rough idle, it is like it has a hard time going then gets a burst of gas or air or will power and runs great till the next shift..,after replacing air filter, fuel filter. fuel pump & regulator, tps sensor co2 sensors and cleaning maf/map and fuel injectors, is using lots of gas too..the truck is still not happy, spent hours checking for pinched vacuum or fuel or eclectically lines.. Oddest thing, it won't throw any codes.. 1994 mazda b4000...
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I have a 2000 Mazda B4000 with 2 little problems I don't know anything about. First is when I go to start the truck it takes a long time to turn over. A friend of mine said that a valve is not maintaining fuel pressure so the fuel is not sitting ready for the starter when I go to start up. But if i engage the key for a few seconds and time it right it will turn over easily (apparently allowing the fuel pressure to build to the appropriate level). Is this a little valve or gasket or something I can replace to maintain the pressure?
Second, when I'm coming from a stop or accelerating out of a slow roll there is a 'shudder' or 'shiver' in the drivetrain that almost feels like the shift from 1st to 2nd is just kinda lumpy. It also happens if I come to an abrupt stop, so gearing down into 1st. It doesn't feel like something that is getting worse, but I don't want it to be causing damage or have my driveshaft snap or something.Other than that this truck seems really well maintained by the previous owner, and a mechanically inclined friend of mine said everything else looks.
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I've traced a 0.3-amp parasitic drain to the audio power amp (fuse #16, 20A). Pulling the fuse, the radio still works (it's on fuse #15) but then there's no sound from the speakers. (There's also no current drain. I'm weighing if it's more important for the truck to run or to sound good.)
I replaced the radio a month ago. It was definitely not working right, and the new radio definitely is. With the #16 fuse in place, the sound out of front and back speakers was great. "Was" because if I leave the fuse in, the battery gets drained in a few days, so the fuse is now out.
Where the audio amp is. My Haynes manual doesn't say. The amp has no user controls. It just takes the radio's output and feeds audio to the front and back speakers. The #16 fuse is what gives the amp power. Some online posts say it's under the glove box, some say behind the rear right speaker. All agree it's a bear to access.
So a few questions:
Why the power amp would be drawing current even when the truck and radio are powered off?
How does one troubleshoot this, short of replacing the power amp, which of course I don't have an extra lying around and wouldn't want to replace anyway as it's otherwise working great.
What do you think of installing a switch on the audio power amp circuit so that when the truck is parked, I switch it off, and no current drain, but when the truck is driven, I switch it on, letting me hear the radio or CD. This is obviously a kludge/ghetto solution, but the advantage is that I don't have to access or replace the audio amp. I want to keep using the fuse, of course, so am looking for a way to wire a switch into the fuse box while keeping the fuse in the circuit. If I knew which wire goes between the fuse and the audio amp, I'd splice a switch there, but I don't, and again, the Haynes manual is not useful.
1994 B4000, extended cab, bought in 1996....
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Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
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1995 Ford 4.0 ... All the following have been replaced on the truck.
High Pressure Fuel Pump and assembly
Idle Air Control Valve
Spark Plugs
Oxygen sensor (Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen)
Fuel Filter
The most recent item that I replaced is:
Coil Pack
Spark Plug Wires
Now, with the Coil Pack replacement, the truck drives good, as long as I do not floor it (After it heats up, about 15 minutes). Basically, if I try to pass someone, the truck acts as if it is chocking out, like it is not getting any fuel.
Before replacing the Coil Pack. It would chock out at any given time, rather just barely pressing the gas peddle, or just sitting idle.
I took it to a friends muffler shop, and he stated that it is not the exhaust that is causing the issue. I am at a loss. Is there anything else that I can check?
The truck seems to drive fine, as long as I do not get down on it, and try to take off fast after it heats up. When it is cold, I can take off like a bat out of hell, and it runs like no-ones business.
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I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
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Had the top half of the intake off (2.3L) and fixed some vacuum leaks and replaced a power steering pump. Started truck and it ran funny like missing on one cylinder then cleared up then started making a loud knocking noise and running rough. Assumed that it swallowed something when I had the intake off and it got into a valve or into the cylinder. I pulled the plugs and there are no obvious signs of a problem. I also did a compression test and all 4 were around 150psi.
Put the plugs back in and started it and the same noise was there. Removed the serpent belt just in case it was power steering pump related and the noise was still there when I started the truck. Sounds like something is inside the engine still. Going to get a friends bore scope to check further. I guess I will split the manifold again and run the scope in there. Pending that I may also look down the plug holes with the scope. This is a major bummer. Not what I needed.
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
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I noticed that my turn signals stopped working. I replaced the flasher. Now the turn signals work but the signal indicators in the dash don't light up. Also, the hazard lights don't work either. No flashing, no blinking when I turn on my hazards. I've seen many variations while searching? 1994 B3000 2x4 extra cab.....
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