Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - Changing Tranny Fluid?
Mar 12, 2015
. I'm going to FINALLY change the tranny fluid in my 95 Ranger Splash this weekend and need all the feedback I can get! It's a manual trans with miles shy of the 250,000 mark...still on the original stuff!! I'm only the 2nd owner but I bought the truck with just 45,000 miles on her so I'm willing to bet the farm that it's never been changed. It's getting harder to shift from 1st to 2nd and I'm getting a little bit of grinding from 3rd to 4th if I shift too fast. Reading all the threads everywhere online, so many different people have so many different theories from stock Mercon V to MOTOR OIL??? The motor oil thing floored me but I understand the viscosity difference between hydraulic fluid and lubricating oil. figure out what the best thing to replace the original with to prolong the life of this long running wonder vehicle!
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Looking at buying a new truck. We'll in a crunch actually due to my tranny going out this morning. One that I'm looking at looks great, except the obd2 port is dead. Where do I start looking? What fuse etc. It appears auto correct changed the obd2 to body and I didn't catch it...
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I am installing a used tranny in the ranger. According to the salvage yard the tranny fluid and filter was removed and fluid drained from the torque converter. How am I supposed to fill the torque converter?
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1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
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2003 ranger 4.0 5 speed .... Pretty new to the car/truck world only 18 and this is my first truck, I traded my focus for it and so far so good. Its my first manual but i got to tinkering and i noticed some oil build up under the front end so i got to looking and found this, wondering if its an issue, should I try to fix whatever is causing it or take it to a mechanic. Looks like between tranny and engine to me.
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Last week I noticed a slight "whomping" noise in my 2010 Ranger. Not a knock, not a ping, nothing that sounds metallic. Just a rhythmic whomping sound that only shows after the engine and tranny are hot.
It only does it in Drive or Reverse; and not in Park or Neutral. The tech at the dealership (30k on the vehicle) says he thinks it is a bearing in the torque converter.
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My 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
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I'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
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Is this hard to change out?
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Where is is my fuel filter and what are the steps to changing it. I have a 2002 Ford Ranger. Also how do you change the flashers, the left blink is really fast but the right blink is fine.
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I removed what I could, plastic cover and thermostat housing. Looks like I have to pull the intake to get the little bugger out of there. What's the procedure to remove and replace?
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Plan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?
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2004, 4L, sohc - Is there any issues or problems changing spark plugs?
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I have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
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1995 Ford 4.0 ... All the following have been replaced on the truck.
High Pressure Fuel Pump and assembly
Idle Air Control Valve
Spark Plugs
Oxygen sensor (Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen)
Fuel Filter
The most recent item that I replaced is:
Coil Pack
Spark Plug Wires
Now, with the Coil Pack replacement, the truck drives good, as long as I do not floor it (After it heats up, about 15 minutes). Basically, if I try to pass someone, the truck acts as if it is chocking out, like it is not getting any fuel.
Before replacing the Coil Pack. It would chock out at any given time, rather just barely pressing the gas peddle, or just sitting idle.
I took it to a friends muffler shop, and he stated that it is not the exhaust that is causing the issue. I am at a loss. Is there anything else that I can check?
The truck seems to drive fine, as long as I do not get down on it, and try to take off fast after it heats up. When it is cold, I can take off like a bat out of hell, and it runs like no-ones business.
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I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
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Had the top half of the intake off (2.3L) and fixed some vacuum leaks and replaced a power steering pump. Started truck and it ran funny like missing on one cylinder then cleared up then started making a loud knocking noise and running rough. Assumed that it swallowed something when I had the intake off and it got into a valve or into the cylinder. I pulled the plugs and there are no obvious signs of a problem. I also did a compression test and all 4 were around 150psi.
Put the plugs back in and started it and the same noise was there. Removed the serpent belt just in case it was power steering pump related and the noise was still there when I started the truck. Sounds like something is inside the engine still. Going to get a friends bore scope to check further. I guess I will split the manifold again and run the scope in there. Pending that I may also look down the plug holes with the scope. This is a major bummer. Not what I needed.
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I bought me a 1993 Ford Ranger with 3.0L and 123K miles a few months ago to save on some Fuel. My F-250 was killing me. The Ranger Runs Great! Lately My Check oil Light has been coming on. So I have Checked the oil and it was slightly below the Full line each time the light came on, so I added each time. I have been wondering where the oil has been going cause it has not leaked anything on the ground. Thought it might just be burning a little oil. Well I come out today and on the front right side I see a small area of leaking Fluid. Of course it being Green I knew it was Rad. Fluid. So I Checked Fluid at the Rad Cap and it was Clean and not that low. Then I go and Check the Rad. Overflow Res. and it is Brown. and I can see where it was overflowing a little out into the engine Compartment. So that Kinda of explains where my oil has been going. I am aware the trans Fluid Cooler is in the Rad. and I am 99% sure its oil since I have been having to add oil. I have also Checked my Oil and no Rad. Fluid is getting in the oil at all.
Anyways I have done a little Research and I have seen Blown Head Gasket and Cracked head a lot in my research. So I am guessing I am looking at one of these two issues? Or is there more possible issues that it might be? As little as I paid for the Truck I dont think it would be worth fixing if It was one of those two things.
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I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
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