Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 V6 Engine Knock Under Load
Dec 12, 2013
I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
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Specs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
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My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
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My 94 ranger 4.0 v-6 makes clicking noises when hauling a load at highway speeds. How do i correct this?
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so this is my pops truck and its got 95k miles seems pretty clean. But it some times has a small miss fire at idle or when i put it in drive with the break on. and its just one cylinder thats missing. So iv tried new cap rotor plugs and wires but still not luck. and did a ohms test on the injectors and there all good...
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I recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
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So my 99 2.5 rcsb has been stalling out under loads, particularly when the A/C is on. It's stalled when warm, cold, engaging Drive or Reverse, and it steering does it at least once a day. There's a missing elbow to a vacuum line at the driver side (looks RABS related). The truck had the CAT melt off and now it's laying in my bed with the O2 sensor, don't know if that relates.
This truck sees 100 miles a day through the mountains, 5-7 days a week. It only has 140,000 miles on it, I put 40,000 on it in the last year with no issues. The truck is very much showing age (needs almost everything), but I'd like to keep the basics going.
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I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
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03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
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I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
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2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
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My 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
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I have a 94 2wd 4.0 auto 3.08 rear end it has 195,000 im gettin 15 city 18 hwy I used to pull 24+ hwy I changed plugs and wires no change? It has the 4.0 tick but its always had it....
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Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
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1994 ranger 3.0 .. New: water pump, htr. hoses, radiator, thermostat, pulled & flushed htr. core. (2 year time frame) ....
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4, 130,000. I love this truck but about a year ago it started not starting after it warmed up short distances in the summertime? It start right up on cold crank...Runs smooth idles like a champ...but if i shut it off..wont start for 20 to 40 min??? It doesn't happen in the winter months??? So I changed the fuel pump, filter, relays. I feel like it has something to do with the Ignition Control Module. Would that come up in a code?
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Having a slight issue with my ranger. So I bought this truck out of a junkyard about a month ago, its a 94 4x4 with a 4.0 and a five speed. When I bought the truck the motor was blown so a few weeks ago i replaced it with a 4.0 from an aerostar van I had laying around. Right after I changed it the truck was running good with no issues, until a few days ago going to work the truck started hesitating going up a hill. Now the truck does it all the time, sitting at idle the truck runs smooth as silk, at half throttle it does it the worst but when you mash the peddle to the floor it clears up and runs good.
So far I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil pack, mass air sensor, throttle position sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator to try and fix it but nothing has worked. I've checked the fuel pressure it has 30 at idle and 40 with the vacuum hose pulled off of the regulator, I even taped the gauge to the windshield and went for a ride and there was no drop in pressure when it started acting up. a few other things i have done were plugged all the vacuum ports to rule out a leak, reset the computer and checked for codes. the only code that came up was 522. So I think my next step is going to be buy new oxygen sensors ? But my question is wouldn't the check engine light come on if it was an oxygen sensor ?
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Got a problem with the '94 Ranger. Something keeps draining the battery. For reference, the truck is an XL, manual 4x4, 4.0L, 5-speed. I've been trying to keep driving it so I could try and diagnose the issue. At first, as long as I cranked it every day, it stayed charged up, but now it has gotten worse. It will run down in an hour or two. I know figuring this kind of problem out is tough, but I thought maybe some others of you may have experience in this area that might benefit me.
Based on a gut feeling, my first idea was that there was something going on inside the AC compressor. So, I disconnected the compressor, but that wasn't it. My plan at the moment is to replace the wiring harness between the battery and the starter. The current harness is pieced together (not my doing), and whether it fixes this problem or not, it needs to be done. Another thing I've thought about is the ignition switch. It acts "funny" to me, but it has never really given any trouble.
My son needs to take this vehicle back to college with him in a couple weeks, and I need to get it figured out.
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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