Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Turns Over Fine But Won't Start
Aug 3, 2013
My son's Ranger wouldn't start today, turns over fine, added gas to make sure it wasn't out still no hit.
Other than fuel pump (he said he couldn't hear it) what things should he check? I'll check back in the morning.
1994 Ranger 2.3 4 Speed ....
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My son's 97 2WD Ranger with 2.3L, 5 speed, no a/c, basic XLT standard cab.
I was using his truck because my 93 Ranger was getting a new starter on it. I drove to work with no problems, then after work, it started just fine and drove a few hundred feet to a stop sign where it promptly died. I was able to start it again with some effort and drove to the next stop sign maybe a quarter mile away. Truck died again, but this time it would not start. Towed it home about seven miles and its in the driveway now. The previous owner had new Motorcraft platinum plugs and wires installed, new fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned, all about 11,000 miles ago. My son has had it for about 6,000 of those miles.
It felt like it ran out of gas, but the gauge showed about 1/4 tank, and I put about 3 gallons more from a gas can into the tank with no change in being able to start it.
Here's what I've checked so far according to my Haynes manual:
Turned key and listened for fuel pump and it seems to go on just fine.
Checked fuses and they are fine.
Swapped around relays in distribution box with no change
Checked resistance at coil pack and it was about 1.7.
Checked resistance at one injector and it was about 1.7.
Checked inertia switch and it did not need a re-set.
I don't have the ability to check fuel pressure.
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I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4, 130,000. I love this truck but about a year ago it started not starting after it warmed up short distances in the summertime? It start right up on cold crank...Runs smooth idles like a champ...but if i shut it off..wont start for 20 to 40 min??? It doesn't happen in the winter months??? So I changed the fuel pump, filter, relays. I feel like it has something to do with the Ignition Control Module. Would that come up in a code?
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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My 1991 ranger with a 4.0 turns over but will not start. It acted like it ran out of gas put again seems to do ok then it did same thing it sat over night then would not start so I thought I would put some gas in the intake so it starts ran real rough but smoothed after a few minutes ran fine after that next morning same thing no start did same put gas in intake at first no start just turned over didn't even try let it sit for awhile then tried again it fires up ran rough but ran now I get nothing just turns over pulled codes 22and 122 replaced both had ignition mod checked its good new coil pack no change so at this point i hear fuel pump kick on fuel getting to fuel bar but seems a bit week on pressure going to get pressure gauge and see what it says but in the meantime I am loosing my mind...
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My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
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94 Mazda B4000. V6 4x4 manual
After engine has ran about an hour, I make a stop at location, then on startup engine has a hard time staying idle after engine it's warm. Cold start idles fine, hot start it dies out. I must rev gas for truck to stay on. What could this be?
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I'm having trouble with my ford ranger. It cold starts fine, and drives fine while cold. Once it warms up the idle is barely keeping it running, or surging 1000-1500 rpms above normal idle. Any gas I apply while hot idling will stall out the motor, and will not restart. It acts like it is very flooded when I try to do a hot start. I pulled the IAC valve off and cleaned it even though it was very clean and actuated properly. I also cleaned my MAF, and that changed nothing. I really do not want to just throw parts at it hoping I guess right before I'm broke. Not sure where to go from here, and I live in Alaska where I am fixing this outside.
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My Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
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Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
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1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
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One month ago. I am at a store and it won't start. Turns over for a second but wont fire up. Waited a while and it finally did. Took to auto parts place and we went over all that it might be. I checked the button on the passenger side and it was down as it should be. I replaced fuel fuse 48 in the box under hood. All was well for a week
3 weeks ago again wont start but this time it will turn over and over and over. Waited again and it cranked. Went back to auto place dude said maybe the ground to the computer. So I put a neg ground on it to the frame. Worked for a few days.
1 week ago Again cranks but wont fire. I take it to the ford house expecting expensive sex. They kept it for 2 days and it cranked all the time. They told me it had to not start so they could get a code. Check engine light has never come on. Even when it wont crank. I got truck and went to eat. And yes then it wont crank. Waited and had another marg and it finally cranked but you could smell gas like it was flooded. Took it home.
Today I took it down to auto place and tested fuel pressure. 60 psi no problems. grrrrrrr well maybe it ain't fuel pump. I have to have a truck I can rely on. I have football playoffs coming up and I travel a lot. It has a brand new interstate battery. I put Lucas gas treatment in tank. Dude at auto place said it would clear fuel line and lube fuel pump? It was 10 bucks for big bottle so I figured it couldn't hurt.
If its 10 at night and I am at a game shooting THEN Im sure it wont start.
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Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
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So I just finished redoing my head gasket. Everything is hooked back up the way it was prior to the tear down. I'm getting spark, fuel, compression, timing was set correctly according to Haynes, turns over but just doesn't want to fully start up.
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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The truck just won't turn over makes a rrrgh rrrgh noice like it wants to start, I push the gas peddle to the floor and I should smell a lot of gas but don't!!! I added oil when it died at the store last night and it started up but the oil stick indicates oil is fine??? Pulled the diode out this morning put it back in the truck would not start just made that noise but turned it off and reseated the diode and it started??? These things may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Could it be electrical or oil pressure gauge sticking or something else that I could tell my mechanic and he could fix so I don't get stuck????
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking... This thing has 253k on it...
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I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
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I have a 2006 2.3 ranger motor runs fine at idle and as I ride down the road the motor just cuts off. If I pump gas it will take off again and in 3 miles it will do it again. After 20 miles running good it will cut off again. Replaced coil pack, fuel pump, Cam sensor, Idle control sensor! What else could be causing this?
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