Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Engine Cranks But Won't Start
Aug 7, 2015
My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
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I have heard from a few people that it might be the computer that is messed up. Just replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, fuel filters. Pump turns on. Cranks and cranks but won't start. Took the intake cover off and tried starting it, all it did was back fire. Checked the firing order and everything is right. So im left with guessing at the computer and ignition??
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Ok, went out last night to go over to a buddies place to watch some football. Tried to start my truck but all that happened is that it would turn over, but not start. Had plenty of juice in the battery, and 1/2 tank of gas. It acted like it wanted to start, but nothing doing - just keeps cranking and cranking. Its even more frustrating because I was driving it around most of the day before this happened.
Here's the dillema: Its been doing this for the past two months now on and off. Once I fix something, it runs for about a month, and then it starts doing this again, without any warning signs (i.e. multiple cranks before a start, stalling, hesitation on accel., etc.). At this point I'm clueless. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and air filter, but the problem has resurfaced again.
An interesting thing to note is that the only ways I'm able to get it started when it starts doing this is to remove the electrical connection from the intertia switch, and crank the engine a few times to relieve the fuel system pressure. After reconnecting the inertia switch, the truck starts instantly.
So whats the deal? Why this would work, and why suddenly the thing would not start after weeks and weeks of driving flawlessly? Is it possible that my system is either too pressurized or losing pressure somehow, and that is how it be able to start? A buddy suggested it might be injectors, but I'm not so sure, because there is no hesitation on accel or performance loss, or even a rough idle.
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My 1999 Ranger that I bought used has been serving me well. However, two days ago I went to visit a friend and when I tried to start the truck to go home, the engine cranked but would not fire. I assumed that perhaps I had flooded the engine, so I walked home. I went back an hour later and the truck started up immediately. Then, yesterday, the truck would not fire at all. I towed it to AutoZone to check for error codes, but none were found. I put my inductive timing light on a plug wire and found that there was no spark.
In one instance of cranking, the timing light blinked and the engine tried to fire, but then nothing. The AutoZone man suggested changing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. I haven't done that yet, but that is my next plan. Can the Ford dealer find error codes that tell what is preventing an engine from starting that AutoZone can't see? For sure there is no spark, but maybe there is no fuel either since I don't smell gas after much cranking. Could it be the inertia switch cutting off both fuel and spark?
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I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4, 130,000. I love this truck but about a year ago it started not starting after it warmed up short distances in the summertime? It start right up on cold crank...Runs smooth idles like a champ...but if i shut it off..wont start for 20 to 40 min??? It doesn't happen in the winter months??? So I changed the fuel pump, filter, relays. I feel like it has something to do with the Ignition Control Module. Would that come up in a code?
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner. It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not work. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem). I am getting spark. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time. I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid. The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem. OBDII scan shows no codes.
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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My son's Ranger wouldn't start today, turns over fine, added gas to make sure it wasn't out still no hit.
Other than fuel pump (he said he couldn't hear it) what things should he check? I'll check back in the morning.
1994 Ranger 2.3 4 Speed ....
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94 Mazda B4000. V6 4x4 manual
After engine has ran about an hour, I make a stop at location, then on startup engine has a hard time staying idle after engine it's warm. Cold start idles fine, hot start it dies out. I must rev gas for truck to stay on. What could this be?
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I'm having trouble with my ford ranger. It cold starts fine, and drives fine while cold. Once it warms up the idle is barely keeping it running, or surging 1000-1500 rpms above normal idle. Any gas I apply while hot idling will stall out the motor, and will not restart. It acts like it is very flooded when I try to do a hot start. I pulled the IAC valve off and cleaned it even though it was very clean and actuated properly. I also cleaned my MAF, and that changed nothing. I really do not want to just throw parts at it hoping I guess right before I'm broke. Not sure where to go from here, and I live in Alaska where I am fixing this outside.
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2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
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Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
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Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
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1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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