Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 B2300 - Gas Gauge Reads Empty?
Aug 19, 1999
Any known problems with '94 Ranger/B2300 gas gauges? I just got a '94 B2300, and gas gauge reads empty with the key ON, and about 1/4 tank with the key OFF. Was told by previous owner it occasionally works, but I've never seen it work. Am starting to procure manuals and dig around the truck myself, but don't want to re-solve the problem if it's a known one. Haven't seen mention on the net of it being a recurring problem, but just starting to dig.
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Ok I have 94 B2300 and about every 3rd or 4th start the ECU relay will not come on / energize which the the fuel pump relay doesn't come on either to prime the fuel system... so no start! It's very intermittent and sometimes the only way I can get the truck started is by pulling out the ECU relay and plugging it back in even sometimes that doesn't work too. Is it a bad relay or bad base the relay plugs into or is the ECU/computer going bad or is there wiring messed up in my ignition switch? Is there a known problem like this with these trucks?
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I bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
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Gas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
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Problem: Fuel tank near empty and the gauge (appropriately) reads near empty. I pull into a gas station and fill up. In spite of a full tank, the fuel gauge is still near empty and the warning light/chime is still on. I turned the car off and restarted it several times but no change.
I can't recall any and could not find any reference in the table of contents.
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Fuel gauge goes back to empty when I fill the truck all the way up. It goes back to full once I have used up 2 gallons ( from 36 gal to 34 ) on my 2012 F350. I also had a similar issues years ago with my 2003 6.0L .....
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I've been fighting this for weeks with no success. Gas gauge always reads empty and the light is on. I checked the resistance of both sending units sitting in the tank 28 ohms on the right and 50 ohms on left. That should be within spec right? And when I pulled them out the ohms change at a steady rate with the arm down to 4 or 5 ohms.
I've checked all the fuse, all good. And I do have a for fuel level sensor A. Is there supply voltage checks I can do, or ground something to try to get some reading?
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My 94 Ranger 3.0L 5speed 2wd temp gauge is staying on the cold side but the heater is working good and I used a laser pointing thermometer at the thermostat housing and got 180* after running for a while and I also noticed that the fuel economy had gone down along with the power. I was getting 340 miles to a tank but now I'm getting 280 per tank.
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When the gas gauge of my recently purchased 2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 automatic is on E it will only take approx. 40 liters (11 gallons) at the pump. Manual says it's a 75 litre (19.8) gallon tank. Called dealership and service advisor said "they are all like that, you can go quite some distance on E". I think he's full of something that creates gas and there's a problem with either my float or the sending unit in the tank. Why in the world would anyone make a vehicle with a "reserve" pass E almost as much as what the gauge reads before E?
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Full tank and the gauge reads empty. Has happened to me a few times. Occurs after a fillup and disappears after the car is left to sit for a while off. I would hate for this to happen on a long drive. Dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the issue. Am wondering if this might be related to the hiccup in some way. Also, am wondering if this is a fuse issue.
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My 01 sl2 wont start and the gauge says that the car is empty (before this problem, everything was working fine). I know that I have more than a half tank of gas, the car continuously turns over but wont start. I replaced the fuel pump and still it wont start (not to mention that the tank was more than half full at the time). I checked all the fuses and relays and everything seems fine. I am not even getting gas pumped to the filter.
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I'm new to the Gen 1.
All has been well in just over a month of driving the car and about 3300 miles logged. The 12v, Aux battery was dead from the car sitting on the lot for so long (I replaced with a new OEM Toyota 12v battery) After a week of the car experiencing dim headlights, and various other electronics
No codes or CEL though.
Now that the 12v battery has been replaced, the car runs exceptionally well, aside from an intermittent fuel gauge issue where it only reads full bars (completely full) if I let the tank get to empty (Flashing single bar) or close to that. If I fill the tank from s
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I have a 1997 Mazda B2300 with 175,000 miles that has an intermittent check engine light. When I check the code it is always P0420. If I leave it alone long enough the light usually goes out. The truck had the catalytic converter replaced about 5 years and 60,000 miles ago. I also had the muffler replaced in October, but I was getting this code prior to the muffler replacement. I recently bought a scanner that can monitor the fuel trim data and noticed that the long term fuel trim is generally between +16 and 18%. I replaced both oxygen sensors last week and cleaned the MAF sensor, but today I got the CEL again. The LTFT is also still the same as it was before I replaced the O2 sensors. My truck doesn't use any noticeable amount of coolant or oil and I'm not really sure where to start.
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Took my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
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I have 2008 mazda B2300 pickup with P1633 fault code. Is this a mazda code (battery overcharge) or ford code (KAM voltage low) since it's a re-badged ranger? Alternator output measured at battery is 14.4 vdc.
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Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
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My 94 Camry 4 cyl fuel gauge seems to be broke. It always shows empty. The "fuel warning" light doesn't come on however. The last time it worked, I had about 1/2 tank and filled it up. It took several minutes for the gauge to creep up to full. It worked for a few days and then when i started the car this evening, the gauge showed empty and tays on empty.
What is the most likely issue here? I've read that it could be the sending unit, bad wiring or the gauge itself. All other dashboard gauges are working fine.
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