Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 4X4 Would Not Start / No Spark And No Fuel Pressure
Dec 19, 2015
Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
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2001 Ranger, 108,000 miles, good regular maintenance per the Ford Schedule. 4.0L manual trans.
I changed the fuel filter 20,000 miles ago. This has been a recurring issue anytime my fuel level was low, about 1/4 tank or less, and when the truck was warmed up, hot. The fix in the past was to add fuel and let the truck sit for awhile. Now, today I drove home for lunch and when I tried to start the truck to return to work, it wouldn't start.
Same conditions, low fuel level and it was warmed up. The engine will turn over and start to run with ether in the air box, so it's definitely fuel related. A fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve got a zero reading, not even a flicker, and no residual pressure after shut off.
Could this be only a fuel pressure regulator issue? Or should I prepare to replace the fuel pump? Is there a fuse that might be blown?
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I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
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I have a '94 Ranger XLT with the 4 cylinder 2.3L motor. I recently failed my smog test here in CA because the evap system would not hold pressure. All the emissions were perfect, but it wouldn't hold pressure. I changed the fuel filler neck -- it was cracked -- but there is still a problem somewhere. Is there a diagram that shows where all the hoses are for the evap system? I'm thinking that some other hoses might be cracked since they have been there over 20 years. Is this a good place to start looking or should I be checking something else?
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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Any way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
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I have a no start no spark situation i am having trouble diagnosing
Truck started and then died it has fuel pressure but no spark I know that there is a theft light that is flashing (slowly) when the key is off. Could this bee the problem?
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I've got 30 lbs of fuel pressure that drops to 28 if you rev it up a bit on a 1998 ranger 4.0 with a new fuel filter. Haynes manual say it should be 56-72 lbs. Bad news is fuel pressure regulator is in the tanks with the pump. Can the regulator be swapped out or is it one assembly with the fuel pump? Is there anything I should check first?
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Ok so my dad has been using my 98 while I was fixing his 92 4.0. I had the 92 perfect and then someone pulled in front of me and totaled it out. Well now I got my 98 back and it's all messed up. Check engine is on p0171. Fuel pressure test done and it's steady 40-42 psi. I remember last year I checked it was like 68-72 psi. It hasn't been a year or two since fuel pump and strainer were replaced. Filter probably 15,000 miles ago. It's currently running good sometimes it cuts off when you start it then next time it stays running. Is this another fuel pump failure? How much longer will it last on 40 psi? The fuel lines and tank have 336,000 miles, engine maybe 150,000 and injectors have about 20,000 miles on them.
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997 2.3 TruckSo this has been an issue for a long time, actually one of the issues I had when I got the truck 3 years ago. After it rains or is extremely humid, my truck does not want to start. Sometimes it will after cranking and cranking and cranking for a while (stopping to cool the starter of course) and other times it won't start.
This time around, it won't start. I cranked it for a little bit and had my dad check for spark while cranking. No spark at all. What should I start looking at? Coils, crank sensor and wires are all newer. As mentioned before, EEC has been replaced. Could it just be bad luck and I got a crap crank sensor? All fuses and grounds are good.
No codes, either except for the occasional misfire code that I get for some reason after pushing in the clutch to decelerate from a higher RPM. It'll fall and start to misfire, but clear up when taking back off.
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My Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4, 130,000. I love this truck but about a year ago it started not starting after it warmed up short distances in the summertime? It start right up on cold crank...Runs smooth idles like a champ...but if i shut it off..wont start for 20 to 40 min??? It doesn't happen in the winter months??? So I changed the fuel pump, filter, relays. I feel like it has something to do with the Ignition Control Module. Would that come up in a code?
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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I'm getting tired of the same problem about every 6 months. Plug #4 keeps going bad. Its been doing this for years. It starts with rough idle when first starting up that clears up quickly then eventually it leads to a misfire when accelerating. Every time this happens I replace plug #4 and its good to go. Just recently (roughly 6 months ago) did a full tune up and all new injectors. About a week or 2 ago it started its rough idle at start up and just the other day it started misfiring again. What would keep causing this??
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