Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 2.3L - Coolant Leak Coming From Under Black Plastic Cover
Jan 18, 2014
I noticed green coolant leaking from bottom of black, what I think is called, timing belt cover. There is 188, 000 miles, and when I changed the timing belt, I did not change the water pump, although I did change out the thermostat. I have done a lot of work on this truck in the past. I checked the oil and no signs of water or coolant mixed in. The water pump is not weeping from the top well. I rely on this truck and the way I look at it is I may just keep driving it until it goes kaput (its real beat up). Should I go to an auto parts store and see if I can buy some sealant. I would guess it is either the water pump or maybe the timing cover gasket? I have inspected all hoses, and I see nothing. The leak must be coming from somewhere under that black, plastic cover. I am capable and willing to do just about anything other than perhaps a full engine pull, although I have the wherewithal to do that too if absolutely necessary.
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I have 2000 V6 3.0 Ranger and it has sprung a small coolant leak from timing chain cover gasket. I think just few drips after driving a while since I don't see significant drop in coolant level (Took a month to notice level dropped in reservoir) and did not see an active leak while idling. No water in the oil.
The proper repair would be to replace the gasket, but for the age and condition of the truck, I don't think it is worth it. Searching for a cheaper solution, I found K-Seal and see lots of reviews with success. Will it damage the cooling system in anyway? I think it would be worth a try even if it doesn't fix the leak as long as it does not cause any harm.
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I have an '04 Ranger Edge 3.0 with a severe coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the area where the head/water pump housing meet. I have been told I've lost the seal behind the pump on the timing cover. Is there any way to know for sure? Will I be able to tell, once the pump is out that it isn't coming from the head side? Are there any "special" instructions for re-sealing after replacing pump?
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What is the proper name for the black rubbery plastic material that is located under my side windows of the doors? It is peeling now!! I would like to replace them because I am pretty sure it is the source for water intrusion into my truck.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 4.0 V6 Automatic. The problem is when it idles it idles low and surges up/down and pushes a very small amount of black smoke puffs and smells like gas. I have installed new coil, new wires, new plugs, new ect, new crankshaft position sensor, and new maf. It has new intake manifold, new injectors, new alternator and it still does the exact same thing. Nothing is phasing it. I ran the key on/engine off test and got egr codes and a map sensor code, then ran the engine running test and got 998 and 126 code. The 998 code says that its basically a hard fault/ have no idea.
I do know this is a donor engine out of another year not sure what year, but i know when i ordered the coolant temp sensor the only ones that would plug into it are the years 1990-1993. Now here's my other question, why would the computer give me a map sensor code when truck doesn't have a map sensor? It has MAF sensor, and why egr codes? The truck doesn't have egr and never came with it. I do know I've unhooked battery and replaced the maf and its like it doesn't even recognize it? Could it be the ecm/computer bad or needs flashed?
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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I seem to have a coolant leak somewhere - i changed the oil yesterday and while i was at it i topped off the coolant in the recovery tank to the cold line. Took the truck out for about a half hour then parked it over night. when i came out this morning i found a pretty sizable puddle on the ground, seeming to originate from the drivers side, and when i checked the radiator it was low but the coolant recovery tank was full past the cold line...i let idle today for about a half hour then let it cool down trying to catch it in the act but saw nothing. if i trace the source of the puddle it seems to be coming from the cap area or at least that side of the compartment. would this be the radiator cap itself? allowing coolant to boil over and out but not get sucked back in? Since I've had the truck i have noticed a small, very small, amount of coolant on the ground now and again but this is the first big puddle.
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I recently removed the top plastic cover on my '05 Camry LE V6 to pull a plug and inspect/decide if I was going to change them out. While I felt I was being careful handling the plastic cover, I grabbed it by the access hole for the oil filler cap. Walking back into the garage, some black carbon came off, and looking at the bits on the ground, and what was left on the inside of the cover, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a gasket there.
Maybe it was just an accumulation of spilled oil over the years that has trapped and "cooked", or something put in place to capture spilled oil. I scraped the rest of the carbon off using a razor blade and cleaned it up before installing the cover.
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I am working on my buddy's 1994 Ranger with a 2.3L I4 that has been going thru a large amount of engine coolant. The trucks has approximately 180,000 miles on it. When I had it parked on concrete I have not seen any signs of coolant on the concrete or any signs of coolant leaking. The next place I checked was inside the cab to see if there was any coolant from the heater core and there was not. The water pump has been replaced a couple of years back. I replaced the spark plugs today and did not see anything on the plugs that I would have thought were signs of coolant in the combustion chambers.
With that being said I have not worked on a vehicle with a leaking head gasket before. Would there be any visible signs on the sparks plugs? If so what would I be looking for? When standing in front of the vehicle with the engine running there is a slight smell of antifreeze being "vaporized". Are there any noted issues with this engine that would cause this? Are there any other things I should check? Could it be a leaking head gasket causing this? If so how can I check for that?
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I just joined up after purchasing a CPO 2010 Prius IV. Love the car but after taking a closer look I noticed that one side of the bottom black plastic cover was drooping on one side. Upon closer inspection I noticed that there was a screw and plastic Grommet combination that was not locked into place. After unscrewing the screw, I tried to put the grommet back in place but noticed that it couldn't fit because (I believe) the white bumper portion where the grommet goes broke off. I compared it to the other side of the car and yes it does seem like part of the plastic top portion that is connected to the bumper broke off.
I inspected the bottom some more and it seems like there are a good number of screws missing and a large plastic piece that is the front tire well is also very loose.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
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I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
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2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
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My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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Changed my oil today. Noticed oil coming off the front of the engine. Where this could be originating or do I need to take the belt cover off? I hate having a leak. Wanna get it to stop. Just need to know what I may be up against. 1996 2.3ltr.....
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I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
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Noticed this leak today a few days after parking the Ex (V10) -- not a daily driver. Crawled under the Ex and checked under the hood but I could not find an obvious sign of where the leak is coming from.
I checked the coolant plastic reservoir and its on MIN -- I believe that where it should be when the engine is cold. I noticed that these trucks do not have a cap directly on the radiator. That plastic reservoir, is that where I would top off the coolant?
Is there a spot on these engines where it would commonly leak? Should I try to put some dye on the coolant and/or possibly pressure test it?
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I replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?
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Finding the fix for the rich fuel puffing black smoke fuel reg ok, map ok, temp sensor ok, air sensor ok...
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