Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Starting Cutting Out On The Highway / Loss Of Power For A Brief Instant
Dec 10, 2012
I recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
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I am going along and the power just goes away. Sometimes it is a 50% loss other times it is an 80% loss. I hooked up my scanner and found an IPR code. I replaced the IPR and connector, nothing changed.
As the scanner info shows the Duty Cycle and Pressure track about identically until something goes wonky. When I loose about 50% power the pressure will not get above about 1500 psi but the duty cycle will run up to 60%. Other times when I have a bout an 80% loss the pressure and duty cycle both track low, no more than 1200psi and about 20%.
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97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
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My car now has a little over 370,000 miles on her. The other day I noticed a hesitation while accelerating, like an instant loss of power/ jerk. It didn't do it much at first and the higher the RPM's the less it seemed to do this. Once I got the car up to 60/70 mph it was pretty much unnoticeable.
What it was. Thought maybe a vacuum leak. Nope. Maybe a bad TPS or CPS (didn't end up checking those), Thought maybe a bad injector or O2 sensor (didn't end up checking those either). I did try some fuel injector cleaner though but saw no change. I had a feeling it had to be a sensor or something because the motor itself runs great other than the intermittent misfire.
So I drive it in to work this morning. (1 hour drive each way) and aside from the minor hesitation/bucking/jerking while accelerating, everything went pretty smooth so long as I had the car up to highway speeds. So I get off from work and start driving home. The problem seemed to have disappeared completely for the first 3 or 4 miles, then all of a sudden it started up again. Only this time it had gotten much worse.
I could no longer get the car to go over 70mph and when I came to a stop the car sounded like it wanted to die (but never did). It took forever from a complete stop to get past all of the sputtering and hesitation/missing to get the car up to speed. It would keep cutting in and out (the motor bogging down, then gaining normal power for a second or two and so on and so forth). So I decide to take it to a shop to see if they can diagnose it.
The guy hooks up his code reader and looks at the car for a little bit out in the parking lot. All he could do was suggest to change the spark plugs and said that that was where he would start. So I went ahead and listened to what he said about the spark plugs (even though I knew there wasn't anything wrong with them because I had just changed them about a year ago). So I'm changing them out and when I take out cylinder 1's coilpack I notice it's wet. It seems somehow water or moisture had gotten down into there. So I dried everything off and changed the plug (the old one looked fine but I changed it anyway) and I went ahead and changed out all the rest of the plugs too (they all looked fine as well)
So after seeing the water around the #1 spark plug and coil pack, The injectors are right in front of there, so I decided to take the plug off the injector and take a look.
Sure enough, I took the plug off of the injector right in front of the #1 spark plug (far left spark plug) and wouldn't you know it, it had water down inside of it. I pulled the plug off of the injector next to it and it had water in it too (but not as much). How water could have gotten down in there but it did. I took a Q-tip and used it to dry up all the water down in there. Put everything back together and took it for a spin and everything was back to normal.
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My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
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This has happened before on my 98 ranger 2.5. You can drive it 10,000 miles without any issue and then all of a sudden you take off and there's no power but it quickly returns. Within the last year I've changed fuel pump assembly, fuel filter, injectors, cool packs, and plugs. Is it mass air flow? It seemed to happen a lot more after I cleaned it. My scan tool is amateur but it has a maf reading in lbs. What should it be while driving? Fuel pressure is always between 65-72 when I check it within specs according to my book.
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So I got everything fixed on my 94 ranger so I thought. Now it runs right on the "L" on the idiot gauge on 90 degree plus days running the AC. Also it seems to lose power at times and not even want to do 70. I think new coils, new plugs and wires may work. I also have an intermittent check engine light that pops up on occasion, but clears when you kill the motor and start it back up. I was really starting to like this truck despite it not being my style(I like square body rangers) and it being a 4 cylinder. I like the MPG but am starting to think the 200k engine may be fading
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So, a couple of months ago, my Ranger lost a lot of power going down the road, and when I came to a stop it died, and wouldn't start. So I got it started by roll starting it, made it to a friend's, and then back home. I've put new spark plugs and wires in, and it needed it, badly, but it didn't work. I got a couple of codes off of it,
P0302- Cylinder 2 misfire detected(which I fixed with the spark plugs)
P1443 - which I can't find a definitive answer for
P0500- vehicle speed sensor malfunction
P0171- system to lean (bank 1)
So, the truck will turn over, and if I give it a lot of gas it'll start at stay started for a few minutes, but then cut off. When it is running it's running very very very roughly.
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Bought my third 88 ranger today, drove it 55 of 60 miles home and it died. It lost power and acted like the coil was going bad. This one is a 2.9 5 speed 4x4. The a/c compressor is gone; but the 365 a/c works okay, or did.
My daughter was following me in her car; by the time we got back with my F150 and a chain, it started and ran until it was a half maile from home then lost power and died again.
Drug it home, put a new coil on and it started and revved up fine. Went to move it a couple of hours later and it will crank with the starter, but not fire.
I am getting 12 volts to the primary side of the coil, is there any way to check the TFI module without taking it off the distributor? (they are so accessable).
Or is there something else that I need to check? I really don't want to just throw money at it, I like to know for sure what is wrong before I buy parts.
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I have a 1987 Ranger 2wd, 2.9, 5sp that feels like it is cutting out when accelerating. The only code in the computer (KOEO) is 67, which according to the manual is neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit open. What to look for? Can the neutral drive switch be the problem?
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Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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My ranger sounds like it's revving up real high when I take off but don't have much power. Know what this could be?
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1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
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168K, to date, replaced
rear 2 cat's
Timing chain and gears
cam sync assem.
Plugs, wires, dis block,
Why.............. Read on
This 2003 ranger 3.0 v6, run very hard at idle, yet it runs and you can drive it around town, ""at"" low rpm, and no hills but it gets from point a to point b
I have no pre ingintion, but a plug that was only 60 days only was burnt out completely on 3rd cyl. bank 1 or as ford call it #3, i am telling you this thing seem like it running on 4 cyl,s kicking back and forth, and replacing everything above made no difference.
On the highway, as long as it is flat or down hill 75-80 mph, as soon as a hill or power to pass is needed it bogs down and slows it self to about 45 mph, I have been though everything i can think of and my next move to to start pulling heads, but i wanted to ask here first.
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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My brother's 87 ford ranger 2.3L truck began to have problems. It would be running great, then start to misfire, run rough, sputter, shake and loose accelleration then die. Then it wouldn't start back up for a long time, sometimes til the next day. Little by little, the truck would drive a shorter and shorter distance between breakdowns. He first tried some minor work himself, (basic tune up) - replaced his rotor, cap, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, but that didn't fix it. He went to one garage (big mistake), who said the fuel pump pressure was fine but said he found a broken wire on the harness grounding out and it needed new ignition module and replaced it. (Cost was $350.00+), Garage promised to honor any additional work nec if it continued to have the same problem, and would be free of charge.
Five more breakdowns later and two more "better quality ignition modules", new battery terminals, and 1 new computer later, this joker did more unauthorized work and demanded another $200+ besides the fact of breaking his orig agreement "free of charge" if any further problems! Needless to say, second garage fixed the truck by replacing the magnetic pickup, part # DU 30-C (an electrical part that goes in the distributor and pulsates a current to operate the timing) (it does something like that) and the truck has been driven approximately 40-60 miles as of today, (3 days later), without breaking down. All the other times when picked up from incompetent garage, it wouldn't go more than 1 - 7 miles before breaking down and each time they didn't fix it.
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Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
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Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
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I have a 93 Ford Ranger I can not get to start. The battery is new, I have replaced the starter and the fuel pump but the truck still turns without starting. I thought maybe the Starter Rely might be the problem but I get spark from it when I do the screwdriver test. I am running out of money replacing all these parts without any success.
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