My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
View 8 RepliesToday on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
View 6 RepliesYesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
View 12 Replies2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 Ranger with 2.3L that suddenly lost power on freeway and stopped and couldn't restart. Towed it to Seattle, WA and need Ford Ranger 2.3L engine mechanic to double check the timing since new belt installed to make sure it was done right before cover and rest of engine reinstalled.
View 5 RepliesI have a 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 V6. It has developed a rough idle and has lost i fair amount of power. I cleaned the maf sensor and iac valve. Along with replacing an o2 sensor that was reading bad, with no improvement. The guys at O'reilly took a look and think I may be dealing with a timing issue or a warped valve. My question here is to found the culprit? I'm very inexperienced at working on vehicles and am damn intimidated by the scale of a project like timing. I should add that while traveling on the highway in high gear at low rpms, it develops a rough stutter. I can either power through it or ease off to get it to stop, but it resumes shortly after. It almost acts like an egr valve stuck open when on the highway. But that doesn't account for the rough (a consistent put, put, put...) idle.
View 4 RepliesI recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
View 2 RepliesI was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
View 2 RepliesEither one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
View 6 RepliesI have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger SuperCab XLT 4WD 4.0 Auto. Occasionally, especially when it has been sitting for more than 3 days, it shakes for maybe 30 seconds on startup. It smooths out gradually after that, maybe 15 sec. to normal smoothness. It seems like it is firing on all cylinders and is more like something out of balance.
Never does it when sits less than 2 days. When it happens, the longer it sits the worse it shakes.
02 ranger 4.0 v6 auto has 110000 miles on it. at highway speeds 65-70mph feels like it strugles to shift, truck will shake and bounce some. when this happens rpm's jump from about 2200 to 3000-3200 after a little bouncing rpms drop to normal. issue seems to be the worst going up hill but will happen every time i hit 65-70. Also the truck will not bounce or shake with the OD turned off and seems to run fine this way.
tranny fluid/ filter just replaced with no change. new plugs and wires
My 1999 ford ranger, when started, shakes and then while i am driving. my check engine light is on and reads a #3 cylinder misfire. I have taken it somewhere to get it checked out and they can't figure out what is wrong with it. this problem only happens 50% of the time. I don't know what to do. Also just got a tune up.
View 14 RepliesI am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
View 3 RepliesNot only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
View 3 Replies