Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Self Test For Reading Codes Via CEL With OBD1 System?
Jan 8, 2016
I just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
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Truck is a 1993 ranger 4.0 ohv
Ok I have been getting 157, 158, and 159 codes. I have cleaned and replaced the MAF with no success. I checked the voltage to the sensor 12v, checked the voltage from the signal wire and it is to high. It has been high on the cleaned unit and on both replacements, so I am thinking it is not the MAF, but what will cause it to register high. I cant get the signal voltage below 1.9V at idle.
Signal also reads high with the ignition on and the engine off. What would cause the voltage to be high, I have read it could be an IAC but I would think that would not effect it with the engine off.
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E-150, 5.8/351
The Haynes manual says not to disconnect battery (for whatever amount of time) to clear codes because it also clears the keep alive memory forcing the computer to relearn.
What is the correct way to clear codes? The manual says talks about jumping the OBD connectors some way but I cannot tell what is showing in the picture.
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I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
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I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
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Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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I'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
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I am trying to replace the key lock cylinder (where you insert your key to start the truck) in my 93 Ranger. Using the Haynes manual, I have removed the steering wheel cover (I don't have airbags), pulled the steering wheel, removed the 3 plastic decorative shrouds and looked at a naked steering column assembly. The manual says there is a 1/8" hole on the bottom of the steering assembly where you can push up the actuator pin to release the lock cylinder assembly.
I looked and looked (even with a flashlight) and could not find a hole. I looked at the new key lock cylinder assembly and found the little actuator pin so I sorta know where the pin would be in the installed assembly. The entire key lock assembly is enshrouded (is that a word?) in the cast aluminum steering assembly.
There was a small metal plate - but that plate is just for access of the release of the steering wheel lock actuator (so I carefully bent it back!!). I know all this is for theft protection, but the truck is co safe I can't even replace the lock assembly.
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Where the modulater valve is on my A4LD tranny. I have a 93' ranger XLT extra cab 2wd with 4.0 engine. I have looked all over the tranny and thought it would be somewhere I could see it. I know I had one on my old full size Ford truck with C6.
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Where is the location of the fill plug for a 93 Ranger transfer case? The damper is off and I see the drain plug. Is the fill plug behind the electric motor that shifts the case? I can see what may be a plug there that looks plastic with a very small hex head in the center of it. Is that it?
Also, my Haynes manual says to use Mercon ATF in the transfer case. I see where Valvoline has a Mercon equivalent. What do ATF brand people here recommend?
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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Will a driver door from a 92 ford ranger fit a 93 ford ranger?
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1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
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I'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
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93 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4WD.....
Putting in a new clutch and clutch release bearing, and am wondering if I need to put the retaining ring in that came with the new clutch release bearing? When I took off the old release bearing, a ring did come off from somewhere, but I did not see where it was because it was so dirty.
The reason I ask is because my Haynes manual did not even mention a ring, so I was surprised to see one come off. And my manual does not say to reinstall the ring when installing the release bearing. I did get a newer Haynes manual at the library and looked through a bunch of Chilton, etc manuals.
The newer Haynes manual says to remove the retaining ring on 97 and newer models, but says nothing about putting it back in when reinstalling. So, I am not certain if I need to put a new retaining ring in with the new release bearing.
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1993 3.0 V6 5 Spd ... Changed plugs wires Cap and rotor put in a new idle control Valve. No Check engine light. When i am running down the road feels like it surges,hickups, while its at idle the motor shakes like no tomorrow. Just dont want to throw money at something and not be the part that was wrong. Truck has plenty of pickup runs like a raped ape going down the highway. seems when i accelerate the miss clears up and not there. RPM gauge needle has some movement in it. Also put in K&N filter fuel filter as well.
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