Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Power Steering Or Gear Box / Return Hose Leaking Where Rubber Meets The Crimp
Apr 25, 2013
Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
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my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
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Found a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
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Just checked out at 2003 V6 LE with 120k miles for $5500. Car seems to be in excellent mechanical condition but I did notice quite a significant power steering fluid leak, seems to be coming from the reservoir. I see that there are two hoses for about $80 each listed on Partsgeek.
Is this a common problem, can the clamps just be tightened, Could it be the reservoir it's self or even the pump too high a pressure?
Seems to be quite a lot of fluid running down the side of the car but after taking it for a test drive I didn't see any signs of it squirting out so perhaps it's a slow leak and been leaking for a while.
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
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So the big rubber hose attached to my power steering reservoir is leaking and my mechanic told me to replace it. I went to a couple of different Autozone stores and they both couldn't identify the correct dimensions of it. They told me to take it out and then bring it to them. This is very hard for me since this is my only car and how to pull the bottom bit of the hose out from whatever it's attached to.
I've measured the length to be about 2.4 feet but I'm not sure on how thick it is. I've taken a pic of the hose here:
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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Someone stopped by the shop today with a problem with the power steering leaking. I checked it out and the return line from the rack to the pump is rusted through and needs to be replaced. The pressure line looks just as bad and will develop a leak soon too, if not replaced. While chatting the customer revealed that while stuck with no power steering, he put motor oil into the reserve tank because that's all he had. It did get him home. My plan is to replace the pressure line first, then cut the return line below the car (where it can be accessed better). Then use my evacuator.
hooked to the return line from the rack. Start the siphoning and fill the reserve tank with the proper fluid to flush everything out. I figured that it would flush the reserve tank, pump, pressure line, and rack. Then replace the return line and top off the tank. Will I have to have the engine running while I flush, and do I need to work the steering wheel left and right too.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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I have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
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I have a problem. I have a nylon return fuel line that is SHOOTING out fuel at the quick connect at the fuel pump. See video: [URL] ....
How do I repair? I think the o-rings in the quick connect went bad. I'm thinking to dip the connector in hot water to soften up the nylon, take the old connector off, and put a new connector on. What size connector I need?
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I was replacing the oil in the transfer case and came across this under the passenger side. Power steering rack seems to be leaking through the rubber boot, but I have not noticed anything on the garage floor in recent months...
Can the boot itself be replaced? I hate to think the whole system needs to be replaced.
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I have a 1989 Honda Accord DX with less than 120k miles. I have two problems.
1) the low pressure hose for the power steering has worn out and is leaking by the fittings (badly) and I can't find the parts to fix it. The high pressure hose was also leaking but we found and replaced that part, and
2) I accidentally topped off the power steering reservoir with brake fluid (this was after I already knew the leaks existed).
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My car is in the shop and has a leak at the Power Steering Pump. The rubber O-ring on the Power Steering Pump Solenoid Valve (p/n 4417030120) is leaking fluid. The Solenoid Valve is ok, just the Rubber O-ring is bad, but it looks like you have to buy a complete new Solenoid Valve to get the O-ring (a lotta bucks).
I did find a Lexus Power Steering Pump rebuild kit online at, but I can't see if it includes the solenoid valve o-ring or not. Have to replace their solenoid valve o-ring?
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My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
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I recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
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So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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