Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Front Sway Bar End Links?
Aug 30, 2014
I'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
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I plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
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What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
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One is coming apart, so I'm gonna replace the pair. My Chilton book says to jack the front end up. The part instruction sheet makes no mention of doing that.
Raising the front would allow the control arms to hang. That would seem to me to make it harder to deal with the links.
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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My 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
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I want to change the front sway bar links on a 2005 Camry that has been driven in central New York (ice, salt, corrosion) for 10 years. There is definite wiggle and noise. I recently replaced the ball joints. That was difficult. How difficult is it to remove the sway bar links? Looks like a 5MM or so allen wrench is supposed to hold the ball joint type link to allow 18MM nut to be removed. A 5MM allen wrench is about 4 inches long and skinny. An 18MM wrench is about 12 inches long and beefy. I am skeptical about breaking the nut loose.
Will I need to heat the nut? If yes, how? With a simple propane torch? If yes, how does that work? Apply heat and wait for a sound that indicates the rust has broken? Apply heat for a time, try to hold with the allen wrench and try to undo the nut? Keep trying that again and again until it works? This would be after multiple rust busting spraying to make this easier. I used a 4 inch grinder to grind the nuts off the ball joints to remove them (I know how that sounds, but that is what I did). Thoughts about that for the sway bar links? I am a bolt turner who can stand some aggravation.
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Both of my front sway bar links have a bad joint and are making a bad noise.. I purchased the replacements and tried to loosen the nuts with no success. I put some oil to loosen them and will let them set over night. Next attempt will include a breaker bar.
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I've been having the loud clunk under the drivers side floor, that many others have as well. Did many hours of research and replaced the sway bar end links. Napa only had the left side in stock so I did it first last weekend and did the right side this weekend. One thing I noticed when doing the right side was the hole in the frame was all wallowed out. Drilled out the bushing in the upper end link and used a bigger bolt to fill the gap up. went for a drive and the clunk was way worse than it ever was still on the left side. So I took off the left one and went for a drive. Sure enough no clunk, the left one was wallowed out as well. So I did the same thing on that side and the evil clunk is finally gone. Just thought I would throw that out that if have a clunk after replacing the end links, Check the upper holes.
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So putting the new extended links on my truck, not sure if they are supposed to be seated flush on both the frame and sway bar itself before tightening them down. This is how they are sitting now --
You can see a little gap between the rubber fitting where the bushing sits and the frame mount. Just wanted to make sure before I torque it down. Its the same on the other side as well. They are sitting flush on the sway bar.
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I have a 2002 F350 4x4 CC 7.3 i am wanting to change the sway bar bushings front and rear to poly and I want greasable bushings to avoid the squeaking that you get with these bushings alot of the time. I would like to change the end links to poly too i realize these wont be greaseable. What was the outcome and where did you buy the bushings. What is the size of the front and rear sway bars and the length of the end links??
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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The Honda dealership told me my 2005 CRV has loose sway bar links. How are these fixed? They quoted a price of $290 for the front links and $374 for the rear links. Does this sound reasonable.
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
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I just installed rear sway bar & links, this made a world of difference in the way the car handles as soon as I made the first turn I could feel the difference in the car it definitely corners flatter, the install only took about an hour did it in the driveway on ramps, I installed the kia sway bar 555102T000 the bar is 18.3 mm while the stock one is only 15mm I included some pics...
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My mechanic says I need to replace both front sway bar links on my 2002 Jetta....I am, of course, hesitant to do it at this price. How critical is it to replace? Can I get junk yard sway bars to make it cheaper? And can I do it myself (have no experience fixing anything....
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I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
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Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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