Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Changed Speedometer Cable And Sensor Still Bouncing?
Oct 25, 2014
so i changed the speedo cable and speed sensor in my 93 ranger, but still getting the speedometer bounce. what could be next? the speedo housing in the cluster? lubed the inner cable, made sure nothing is kinked or sharp bends. Put in a new vehicle speed sensor while i was at it just bcuz. cruise control does not hold a steady speed either but i think the 2 are not related. I'm leaning towards the cruise control servo as to why it does not hold a steady speed. Most of the time once i get to around sixty i'm basically driving by ear bcuz the speedo bounces from 60down to 55 and back up.
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Last night the speedometer started acting up, would fluctuate when the truck went over bumps and completely cut out on moderate right turns. Looked underneath as well as one can in the dark and couldn't find anything loose.
This morning I searched on here and the VSS came up numerous times as a common failure. $15 and about a half hour later I had it installed, and while I was under there I took a better look at the other connectors to double check harness connections for tightness and cleanliness. It all looked good, so I went ignition on... and the light came back. Tried clearing it by keeping the diag connector unplugged while switching ignition off, but no go. Took it for a quick spin around the parking lot, and the speedo was completely dead.
Hit up my factory ETM, found all the relevant connectors and set up a wiggle test of the VSS circuit with the DVOM on audible continuity check. Found one of the wires had chafed against the body right by the under-cab harness connector and worn almost completely through. Cut out the bad bit, soldered and heat-shrunk a patch in, and took it for a spin. Voila! No more ABS light and a working speedometer.
Also fixed the fuel gauge sending unit wire which was in the same connector grouping and chafed (but not yet broken) in a similar manner.
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1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
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I need to lube the speedo cable on my Suburu legacy 1993 does the cable come out from the speedometer end.?Also what the best lube to use for the cable,also any pitfalls to avoid.
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I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus, and have been driving it for about 5 months. The other day, as I was driving, the speedometer stopped working. It did that one time before, but started back working. However, this time, it still is not working and I have no idea how fast/slow I am going. Often, my car has little glitches where you have to lock/unlock the door a certain way or it does not work right. Everybody jokes that my car has OCD! Also, once you crank the car, you have to turn the key back halfway or certain things don't work- like the clock, wipers, turn signals, etc. I don't know if this is related to the speedometer situation or not. The last time the speedometer stopped working, I had the AC on and a cassette tape in the deck; I was trying to hit the rewind button, but kind of accidentally pushed between fast-forward and rewind, and that is when the speedometer stopped working. I am not sure this is related. Do you know if my car has a sensor or a cable for the speedometer? Is this something that can be easily and inexpensively fixed?
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I replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
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My battery went flat and to compound my misery, when I went to open the hood, the cable was snapped. How I can open the hood without using the release cable ? I'd rather not have to pay for it to be taken to the mechanic and then also pay to have the battery changed !
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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After taking apart my instrument panel to change the bulbs, I went to reconnect everything, but now the gear shift indicator isn't working. I can change gears fine, and everything else on the instrument panel works just fine.
The copper cable that connects to the shifter doesn't move when the shifter does. Is there a way to fix this problem, or do I need to find a replacement cable?
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I bought a 2000 Ranger 4x4 3.0L auto today from the neighbor guy sight unseen with a "bad tranny" for $400. I'm very unfamiliar with the Ranger family, but long story short:
When moving the shift lever, the trans doesn't engage. It needs to be engaged from underneath. Do the cables tend to stretch, or break? I can't find any adjustment on it anywhere.
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I've noticed my RR emergency brake cable's outer casing rubs hard against the RR shock, such that it's rubbed through the cables plactic covering & is going after the metal jacket.
It's a 99 4X2 4dr extra cab long wheel base.
Notice this on your Ranger, LWB model, or for that matter any wheel base Ranger???
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1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
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2004 ford ranger 3.0 ... So here it goes I am pretty mechanically incline for the most part i would say until this last week i got a rod knock. So i replaced all my push rods put everything back together and now my car cranks but just wont start up where did i go wrong. I cant afford to get another truck i just want my baby back up and running ...
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I have the infamous ABS light & speedo not working on my 2000 Ranger. I replaced the ABS Speed sensor on the rear diff as has been suggested on many posts, but it didn't solve the problem. Did I get a bad part or is there something else I should go after?
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
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Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 4.0L v6. My problem is the abs light stays on and the speedometer won't work till i hit about 35-40mph.
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I have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
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1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
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