Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 A4ld Transmission Fluid Not Circulating
May 7, 2012
I have a 1993 ranger 3.0L/6cyl/automatic/ a4ld. I replaced the transmission and torque converter with one from a salvage yard that has approx. 76k miles. I added tranny fluid and idled the engine for approx. 10 minutes in neutral, but the fluid has not begone to circulate. I pulled off the trans line at the radiator and there is no flow with the engine running in park. Where should I start with the diagnostics for this problem?
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I have a 94 ranger with the a4ld in it. When I bought the truck the trans was shot so I took it out and rebuilt it including new pump and torque converter. Now after putting it back in the truck wont move. so i took one of the lines off of the cooler and there is no fluid moving...?????what should i do before i cut my losses and blow the damn thing up??
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I bought a 1990 ranger with only 38000 miles on it from a online auction from boing aircraft. it never left the flight line and never even had a title. I picked it up from the airport and found out that it didn't have AC like they said, I was a little ticked but that isn't the main problem. When I drive it and it gets warmed up it leaks Tranny fluid from the front of the transmission. The engine does not overheat. It is a 4 cyl AOD automatic with a real thin radiator and a transmission cooler. Without AC the truck isn't the good deal I thought I was getting, and with a bad tranny this is becoming a big OOPS. Why this is happening?
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Dad gave me an 87 Ford ranger a couple weeks ago. I love it. Everything works except I'm having transmission leak issues when I drive her more than 30 miles or so.the symptom is fluid puking out inspection plate area. I checked coolant lines today and unfortunately they are working great. I've had a couple suggestions recommending replacement of the front seal our front pump seal (is there a difference?)
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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1993 ford ranger 4 CLY 2 WD getting spark gas to injectors will only start when fluid is sprayed in air intake. have replaced fuel pu,p. fuel filter air intake regulator. ran okay till ran out of gas.
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I took my 1993 Ford Explorer for an oil change they told me I also needed a rear differential service and a transmission service, so I told them to go ahead (this was on a wednesday). On friday the car broke down leaking transmission fluid (reddish oil). The clutch was making a sound when pushed in and we were not able to shift. I towed it back to the place where the oil was changed the gentelman open something under the car and he said that it had transmission fluid. He got on the car turned on and push the clutch when he did that a lot of fluid began coming out (reddish oil). He said it was the clutch that went out. We think they messed up the transmission. I towed the truck to a garage and the guy mentioned something about a plug related to the transmission. Could the oil people have done something wrong to the transmission that made the car break down???
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92 Honda Civic, it has been steaming under the hood when i drive it and it's going into the overflow tank. When I pull the cap off after it's cooled down and then refill it. I watch to see if it's flowing and it's not. My initial thought was maybe a bad water pump, however I spoke with someone today that said it could very well be the head gasket. I am tending to lean this way now as well, as there is fluid on the ground after I park it. I put down some cardboard so the next time I drive it, I can see where it's coming from... Before I spend any money I want to exhaust the basics. I know I can get a combustion leak test kit to ultimately determine it.
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I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
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Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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A4LD transmission NOT RELEASING LOCKUP in both 3rd and 4th? My 1991 Ranger 4.0 will get into lockup sooner than normal(comparing the recent past), and would stay in lockup long enough to make the engine shudder when I slow down to come to a stop. (much like holding 4th gear without putting in the clutch when you approach a stop.
It doesn't die out and does shift into the proper gear but only after the RPMs dive down to probably 400 and the vehicle shudders a bit. Received and replaced the throttle position sensor today, looking to do the vacuum modulator this w/e. Any other possibilities?
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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I'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
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I am trying to replace the key lock cylinder (where you insert your key to start the truck) in my 93 Ranger. Using the Haynes manual, I have removed the steering wheel cover (I don't have airbags), pulled the steering wheel, removed the 3 plastic decorative shrouds and looked at a naked steering column assembly. The manual says there is a 1/8" hole on the bottom of the steering assembly where you can push up the actuator pin to release the lock cylinder assembly.
I looked and looked (even with a flashlight) and could not find a hole. I looked at the new key lock cylinder assembly and found the little actuator pin so I sorta know where the pin would be in the installed assembly. The entire key lock assembly is enshrouded (is that a word?) in the cast aluminum steering assembly.
There was a small metal plate - but that plate is just for access of the release of the steering wheel lock actuator (so I carefully bent it back!!). I know all this is for theft protection, but the truck is co safe I can't even replace the lock assembly.
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Where the modulater valve is on my A4LD tranny. I have a 93' ranger XLT extra cab 2wd with 4.0 engine. I have looked all over the tranny and thought it would be somewhere I could see it. I know I had one on my old full size Ford truck with C6.
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Where is the location of the fill plug for a 93 Ranger transfer case? The damper is off and I see the drain plug. Is the fill plug behind the electric motor that shifts the case? I can see what may be a plug there that looks plastic with a very small hex head in the center of it. Is that it?
Also, my Haynes manual says to use Mercon ATF in the transfer case. I see where Valvoline has a Mercon equivalent. What do ATF brand people here recommend?
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For a while now my transmission has only been able to shift manually for about the first mile of travel when cold or if it sits for more than a couple of hrs.
I drove it that way for a while. Now it only shifts manually all the time and I have to shift from 2nd straight to overdrive. It won't shift to 3rd but stays in second gear until I shift to OD. Then I do have OD.
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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Will a driver door from a 92 ford ranger fit a 93 ford ranger?
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