Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - 4x4 Not Engaging / Grind Just For A Quick Sec When Shifting
Feb 13, 2014
So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L RWD AUTO.
I've never had this problem but now I can hear what appears to be a electrical noise or grind/whine. This just started happening on Monday. Prior to that I've never heard nor seen my speedometer bounce like this.
I've read that it's the rear diff ABS sensor possibly going bad. So I should have a new one tomorrow via amazon. I have also read that it's possibly the battery? I know the previous owner said he replaced the battery but this was at LEAST 2 years ago. So I know there is a solid 24 months on the battery now, since I've owned the truck...
I've also read that it might be the speedo? These actually go bad? Makes me wonder because of the noise you can hear towards the end like a whine noise. I have noticed that the battery gauge looks a little lower than before... normally it would be at around the MIDDLE of the battery icon and as you can see in the pic it's not now... however, the truck starts up perfectly fine, no hesitation at all or trouble, or having to do it multiple times.. so that makes me wonder is it really the battery?
I have projector HIDS and LEDS inside and have had them for at least a year now, I've noticed today pulling in the garage that the right hid was not flickering on and off persay but the beam wasn't steady like it was.. it was kinda dimming a little along with the interior cabin LEDS.... Battery? Alternator? I'm truely at a loss.
I've also heard there are sensors on the transmission that dictate the speed to the speedometer, problem is I don't know which ones to get.. I don't mind replacing all of them as long as this STOPS.
I did change my rotors and pads, and calipers. This was friday and this didn't happen. I will note that my ABS light is not on nor is it flickering so it makes me wonder as well if that sensor in the rear is bad? I didn't see any bare wires everything is taped and loomed, so I don't think anyone cut the wires back there that I could see at all...
Attached the picture of the battery gauge. And link to the video that I took with my phone...
Ford ranger gauge bounce - YouTube .....
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I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
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Last night, on my way home, I suffered a catastrophic transmission failure in my 1991 2.3L 5 speed. Stepped on the clutch on an exit ramp from the freeway and was rewarded by a LOUD screech/grind, a stopped vehicle, and a transmission "locked" in 5th gear. The local HERO service pushed me out of traffic and I got towed home. Looks like a transmission transplant is in my immediate future. So - the question is, what year manual transmissions match up to a 1991 2.3L 4 cylinder, standard cab, 2WD? I need to start searching salvage yards.
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
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i i am having trouble getting the quick connect on the slave cylinder to go back in i just pulled the entire transmission and replaced the clutch and now when i try to put the quick connect fitting in the slave it is rock solid and will not go in at all
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I've got a 1982 Courier 2.0 2wd 5speed pickup and it's been passed down through my family and has sat for quite a while so I started tinkering with it in my spare time.
I began with the motor and got it to run after 15 years of sitting around but am having issues with the transmission. When I first got it running a while back i had it in gear and when I let out on the clutch it lunged forward a little and stalled. I have since then towed it a short distance across my yard (in neutral of course), but now it seems like it isn't doing anything while it's in gear.
While its running I can put it in gear (even without the clutch) it doesn't grind jump or anything. Everything feels like it's okay as in going into all the gears. I was wondering if this is possibly clutch related or if it's the trans itself. Or maybe some electrical thing related. I haven't taken anything apart yet in hopes that it's something simple. I was curious if it might be low on fluid and maybe that would cause it not to engage properly?
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I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
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I used my 4x4 high for the first time. I switched it on at about 40mph on an icy road and heard a quick grind as it engaged. After it was active I noticed that I the truck sounded different. Not bad necessarily but I could definitely hear that the front drive shaft was engaged as I drove along. Is this normal? In my last Ram, the truck didn't sound any different as it operated in 4x4.
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I have a 99 ranger 4x4 4.0 V6 with 200K miles..I just had the slave cylinder replaced and bled however, it is still hard to get into gear and when at a stop light with the clutch pedal pushed in all the way the truck tries to move forward as if its in gear. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic says that the hydraulic system is working as it should and the problem could only be the pilot bushing failing and causing the trans to partially engage. The clutch and previous slave cyl only had 25K before the slave cyl failed and started leaking!!
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So that's what if feels like, in park at idle it sounds great, starts great no codes. IF you floor it it will not go over 3000 rpms in park, it feels like it has hit a rev limiter. I have 60psi fuel pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm.
When driving down the road I won't go over 55 mph and drives normal if you keep it under 3000 rpm, if you give it more gas it falls on its face?
AC is not working (clutch not engaging)I don't know if that's related or not.
We did just swap the motor the truck is a 2003 2wd drive. motor came out of an 2002 4wd. we are running the 2wd harness, computer egr delete etc.
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I noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
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The key cylinder is basically not engaging anything. The key rotates all the way from auxiliary to start but there's no resistance anywhere, just sort of flops back and forth. I put in a new cylinder just now and luckily it engaged the starter just enough so I was able to get the car home from my wife's work but of course once in my driveway the key would not turn the car off. So if the cylinder is good then what should I check next?
On a side note, what's an easy way to turn the car off next time this happens? Disconnecting the battery didn't work, then I couldn't find an inertia switch. I finally disconnected the alternator with lots of sparks but it did shut the engine off.
It's been a rough night already and I still need to figure out how to get the Ranger I left at my wife's work. The Bronco's got no insurance and my wife can't drive a stick anyway, same issue with the motorcycle. Thinking I'm in for a 10 mile bicycle ride.
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My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
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Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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