My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
View 14 RepliesI've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
It first started with a huge lose in power (can't rev over 3,500 rpm or get over ~55 mph) and a pig on gas! P0125 showed up so after looking for a while I figured I would change the sending unit
- Single wire (3F1Z-12A648-A), coolant temp sensor (ECT I believe) to PCM
- Two wires (F7DZ-10884-AA) and then the thermostat.
- Throughout this time the heater worked perfectly fine. The temperature gauge would get up to C but never very far from it. I would never get to the middle.
In doing so I drained the coolant took off the intake hose (cleaned the butterfly valve in the process) then got clean access to the sensors and the two 10mm screws for the thermostat. I got it all off and apart just fine minus the one stubborn plug on the sending unit (single wire). Putting the sensors back in took more effort then taking them out it could have been the anti-seize or thread sealant that came on it. Anyways, I also noticed that BOTH the new sensors I picked up from the dealership looked identical. Both of them looked similar to this:
Granted the tops were different colors but the ends (metal) were the same or at least I couldn't tell the difference. The ones I took out of the block were definitely different. The sender (single wire) looked like the one above but the sensor looked like this with the pointed tip (I can upload pictures too):
I put the coolant temp sensor in first (two wires) and the plug went on fine. Put the sender (single wire) in and I couldn't get the cap on... it was too tight. I looked at the old one and it seemed like one of the ribs to guide the plug on was off by the thickness of the rib... I tried again and thought maybe it was me and eventually cracked the cap.
Now the coolant gauge doesn't work at all doesn't even move. I then got it scanned and saw P0117 come up... Is this for the sender (1 wire) or the sensor (2 wires). Also I read that once P0017 comes up it could be difficult to start the truck... I thought it was because there was gunk left over from me cleaning the butterfly valve but that may be it instead.
My questions are... Did I mix the sensors up? I really don't think so I double checked before I put them in that only one was open at a time. Was I given the wrong sensor for the coolant temp as it looked different at the tip? I have no clue? Looking at threads for P0117 it seems to be the sensor. I will be going back to Ford tomorrow am to take the old ones in to check. Why wouldn't the plug fit on the sender (single wire)?... I have no clue.
My ranger 2.9 automatic 2WD has an high idle when started for about 6 min, engine can be hot or cold, still get the high idle, then it will drop to around 900-1000. I've changed the Idle control twice, checked EGR function. Replace temp sensor. Disconnected battery for 15 min. No code output.
View 7 RepliesMy truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
Ranger often wants to idle at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I'm glad its got a clutch! This is a long term intermittent problem that is getting worse. I have replaced the the IAC twice. I have unplugged the IAC when the engine is in high idle and the engine idles normally. But, starting the car with the IAC unplugged makes car run rough. That makes me think the IAC is not getting the right voltage input from the pmc (eec). Mine is a 2002 with the 3.0 engine. Throttle plate seems to be closed.
What sense inputs does PMC use to determine idle air position? Also replaced TPS sometime ago but that didn't work either. Sometimes turning off the a/c will knock the idle back to normal but not always. Turning the car off completely usually resets idle. But the high idle comes right back after accelerating. Drove the car today and idle would stick and stay high when clutch pushed in coming to a light. However. as the car slowed to a stop the idle would come down when rolling 1-2 mph. ??
1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
View 5 RepliesI have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 RepliesMy 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
View 3 RepliesTruck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
I have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 6 cyl. 4 wheel drive. I got this truck from a friend. Only had it for a month or so has about 185K on it but has been running great.
I did notice a couple times that when I pushed the clutch in approaching a light the truck would jump a bit in RPM to about 2600. but go back down in a second or two.
This started to occur more frequently and now it does it almost all the time....when I push clutch in it revs up to about 2600 RPM.
Now I can have my foot on the brake and let the clutch out to put some strain on the engine and knock the RPM down but its still a bot high in the 1k range. Sometimes it actually goes back to normal...
When I started it this morning it was fine....but after two shifts it started and lasted the 12 miles to work. What could be causing this? It does not seem to go above 3000 RPM when it revs.... Other then that the truck runs great.
I have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
My compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
View 7 RepliesI have a 92 ford ranger. About a year ago it shut down on me as I was pulling out of a parking lot. I replaced the Cam sensor which IS NOT located on the engine block by the fire wall. It is located on the front of the engine just above the primary cam which is just above the crank shaft and its sensor. It fired right up.
Then the oil pump went out and I just replaced it the other day and the pressure gauge/needle went past the half way mark even at idle. I drove around a bit, maybe 10 miles, then got in it to go to the gas station and got about 50ft from the house and it just died again and will not crank back up.
I am thinking its that darn cam sensor again. But, just like the oil pump was, it's a pain to get to and replace. How to test it. Oh, it is a 2.3 4 cyl. double overhead cam. I do have fuel pressure, I checked that already.
I am the owner of a 1992 ford ranger 4.0 that refuses to start. She turns over, but theres no pressure coming out of the fuel rack/valve. Might be the fuel pump but it started with a little boost about a month ago and now nothing. Head gasket and transmission have been tuned up as well! I've also checked the power distribution box, and spark plugs both seem to be doing thier job! What am i missing?!
View 2 RepliesOk I got the brake pull fixed (I think) on my 92 Ranger 4x2 4.0 extended cab. I still will have to change the driver's side brake hose for prevention and the driver's side caliper just so everything will be new. But it stops straight now with a new brake job, pass caliper and hose on. However, this other problem has been ongoing and it does it on my 1998 Ranger too. It's not the heater core.
I think the evaporator case is filling with water and dripping down under the carpet. So the drain tube must be stopped or the case must have a bunch of leaves stopping it up. But where is this tube you're suppose to check? I don't see a conventional drain tube I only see a blower motor vent tube that doesn't drain to the outside of the car anywhere. I know my 73 Charger has a rubber drain tube that comes out of the evaporator case and drains onto the ground. But where is this one on a Ranger or what else could it be? It's only the passenger side so it's got to be that.
My Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
View 9 Replies'92 Ranger 2WD with 4 cyl and 9" brakes, right rear wheel cylinder keeps blowing out, replaced it twice. I've thought about maybe an obstruction in the left brake line creating too much pressure, or in the junction block on the rear axle. I believe only one line leads to there from the master cylinder, so what else could it be? Only other thing I can think of is that the right brake has a mechanical problem which is causing the forward shoe to move too far away from the cylinder, leaving no 'stop' so the piston just slides right out of the cylinder. But I can't figure that. Original adjuster star wheel was chewed up so I swapped in another, doubt it's that.
View 14 RepliesI recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
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