Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1992 - Starts And Stalls / Won't Run More Than 3 Seconds
Jan 28, 2016
The truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
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My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. This is my plow truck and I don't want to go through the winter without it.
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I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
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So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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'02 Ranger XLT, extended cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC, 5-speed manual, 114K miles.
Problem has occurred twice. After extended run time and engine fully heated, when I get home and shut it down, then attempt to restart within a short period of time, the engine starts very briefly, then begins shuddering violently and dies within a few seconds. Re-attempts to start result in a very shuddering attempt to run for a couple seconds, and then it dies. After a couple of re-attempts, it doesn't even attempt to start; just cranks over with no results. Has to sit about 7-8 hours before it will restart.
No OBD II codes; Passed, no codes shown. I purchased a crank position sensor, but haven't installed it yet: just a stab in the dark after hearing other people's experiences with other vehicles.
First occurrence followed a lengthy trip in heavy stop-and-go traffic. Shut it down when I got home, then attempted to re-start after a few minutes to run a short errand. Sat for two days without any re-attempts; then restarted and ran fine on first try a couple days later.
Second occurrence followed a couple hours of hitting yard sales with the neighbor, in which time I did not shut the truck down; just left it idling while we perused the sales, for fear it wouldn't re-start. Reckon it's a good thing I did, 'cause when we got home and I shut it down and attempted to leave again shortly thereafter, it malfunctioned as described.
Retries failed after sitting 4-5 hours, but after eleven hours of sitting, it started right up and ran normally.
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I've got 200k on my Lariat. Engine was replaced 60k ago. It's in outstanding shape and is driven a lot. Suddenly this morning I start as usual and it runs about 5 seconds then stalls out. Every start, same thing. So it seems I am getting fuel pressure to start but it doesn't last.
I did replace the Fuel Pump Module within the past two years, due to corrosion of the FPM housing. At that time the truck would no start at all. Could it have gone bad already? I'm thinking this must be an electronics failure. It was perfect all day yesterday. 2004 Lariat 5.4...
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I have a 2003 ford explorer sohc 4.0l , that starts only with the gas peddle pushed to the floor and will only run for a couple of seconds at a time. Just replaced all the timing chains and tensioners. It has 145 lbs compression, and 60 psi fuel pressure. No codes on the computer.
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I have a PS 6.0 in my '04F350 that starts very reliably but stalls within 1-2 seconds. Restarts after cranking for 5-30 seconds. This only occurs if the truck sits for more than 6 hours. The longer the truck sits, the longer it has to crank to restart. Also if the tank is full and the truck is parked pointing down hill this does not occur, if it is parked pointing up hill it occurs even with a full tank. Shows no codes. I've had several mechanics look at it and no one has been able to explain or propose a solution expect for wholesale replacement of parts. The symptoms indicate to me that air is getting into the fuel system but I'm not sure where to look.
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Car has 6600 miles on it and is back in the shop for 2nd time to determine what is wrong. Basically, the car starts and then stalls out after a few seconds. It will not start again (at least with me). Course, the dealer can get it started after the tow to them.It began in April after an oil change at the dealer. A week after the change, it started up and then a message SHUT DOWN appeared on the dash.
The car stalled and would not restart. When it was towed to the dealer, it had no oil. Per the dealer, there was no leak and it was assumed the tech forgot to put oil in it, They indicated it was not a problem since there was some oil remaining but the car would still not start. They kept it a few days and replaced the relay for the fuel modulator, electronic fuel pump, fuel unit, fuel pump control unit, e-control unit and of course the battery. Note: this was a cold start.
About a month later, I had driven the car for about 30 minutes, left it for an hour and came back to the car.....it stalled again right after start up and would not restart. After being on hold with roadside assistance for awhile, I tried it again and it started without issue. .
A week later (today), used it for a half hour, came back to use it 3 hours later and same story. Started, then stalled, no restart. Towed it to the dealer and the tech got it started but no codes telling him what is wrong.
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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2010 Cobalt, LS 2.2 Ecotec, with 13.7k miles. Oil level normal and battery voltage = 12.5V.
I've bought the car new in Feb. 2001. Car started and ran normally for the work commute on Friday, 9/2. Today the Cobalt starts normally, runs for 2-3 seconds, and then stalls. The accelerator has no effect. It's already been towed to the dealer..
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My car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
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One of my friends recently asked me to change the timing belt on his 2004 Passat 1.8T. I put on everything as instructed by the manual that the parts department gave me. However, when I start the engine, it runs perfectly for about three seconds, then starts rattling, and stalls out. I took the belt off and put it back on three times and yet, it still continues. This rattling seems to be coming somewhere from within the exhaust system near the engine and sounds like a back-fire. The check engine light also appears when this begins happening. I replaced everything, water pump, pully, tensioner, and etc. Note, I am a professional mechanic and have worked on several Volkswagen cars, including my own, but I never encountered a problem like this one.
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My compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
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I have a 92 ford ranger. About a year ago it shut down on me as I was pulling out of a parking lot. I replaced the Cam sensor which IS NOT located on the engine block by the fire wall. It is located on the front of the engine just above the primary cam which is just above the crank shaft and its sensor. It fired right up.
Then the oil pump went out and I just replaced it the other day and the pressure gauge/needle went past the half way mark even at idle. I drove around a bit, maybe 10 miles, then got in it to go to the gas station and got about 50ft from the house and it just died again and will not crank back up.
I am thinking its that darn cam sensor again. But, just like the oil pump was, it's a pain to get to and replace. How to test it. Oh, it is a 2.3 4 cyl. double overhead cam. I do have fuel pressure, I checked that already.
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I am the owner of a 1992 ford ranger 4.0 that refuses to start. She turns over, but theres no pressure coming out of the fuel rack/valve. Might be the fuel pump but it started with a little boost about a month ago and now nothing. Head gasket and transmission have been tuned up as well! I've also checked the power distribution box, and spark plugs both seem to be doing thier job! What am i missing?!
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
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My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
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