Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1992 - Replaced Solenoid Now No Start?
Jun 28, 2003
I have to fix the truck. Battery is pretty new, replaced solenoid next to battery this morning. Truck still won't start, just clicking away. Decided I needed to replace the starter, put the truck on jacks and went to the starter. At the starter solenoid there is a red cable attached, and a "loose" red wire, with a connector on the end. It would appear the connector just needs to be reconnected to the solenoid. But it won't "connect". Am I missing something? Should it not connect to the prong on the solenoid? Should I just replace the starter, and forget about the wire? I do have Chiltons for our truck, but it doesn't show a picture of the prong on the starter solenoid.
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Automatic with a 4.0... A few months ago I went to start it and it would not start. All the lights were on and working, the radio worked etc. I figured it was the fender solenoid so I replaced it. Didn't fix it. I jumped the solenoid and it spun up. The only way I can start the truck is by turning the key to on, and jumping the solenoid. I replaced the ignition switch that is under the instrument panel, and the ignition cylinder that the key goes in to. I have reason to think that it may be the neutral safety switch, but I do not want to go out and buy the part and it not be the issue.
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I have a 92 ford ranger. About a year ago it shut down on me as I was pulling out of a parking lot. I replaced the Cam sensor which IS NOT located on the engine block by the fire wall. It is located on the front of the engine just above the primary cam which is just above the crank shaft and its sensor. It fired right up.
Then the oil pump went out and I just replaced it the other day and the pressure gauge/needle went past the half way mark even at idle. I drove around a bit, maybe 10 miles, then got in it to go to the gas station and got about 50ft from the house and it just died again and will not crank back up.
I am thinking its that darn cam sensor again. But, just like the oil pump was, it's a pain to get to and replace. How to test it. Oh, it is a 2.3 4 cyl. double overhead cam. I do have fuel pressure, I checked that already.
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I am the owner of a 1992 ford ranger 4.0 that refuses to start. She turns over, but theres no pressure coming out of the fuel rack/valve. Might be the fuel pump but it started with a little boost about a month ago and now nothing. Head gasket and transmission have been tuned up as well! I've also checked the power distribution box, and spark plugs both seem to be doing thier job! What am i missing?!
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My Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
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I'm working on a 1992 ranger with the 2.3l. Hard start almost every time, sometimes have to hold throttle open sometimes not. Won't start at all this morning. When it does finally start it takes a while for it to start firing on the intake side plugs. Haven't had time to check fuel pressure yet but can hear pump cycle when key is switched on.
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I have a 2003 Ranger 2.3l with 327k miles on it. I recently replaced the belt and now it doesnt want to start. The belt is on correctly and tensioner is tight. The battery is fully charged its just not firing up and starting. All connections are good, the ac and power steering pulleys are relatively new. Now i have been stuck tryin to fix it for a week...
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So... p1451. Vent solenoid. I pulled the part and put 12v to it. Opens/closes just fine. Checked resistance on part, 55ohms like it should. Pulled vent canister, no apparent leaks or blockages. I traced wires back to cab. Cannot locate anybroken wiring. I looked up the pinpoint test on this dct and all thats left to test out is the pcm itself. Before I buy the obd2 scanner with all modes I wondering if I am missing something.
I did find a broken ground wire in my searching. Frame to body. My thoughts on a bad ground are that that would cause more than one monitor to register one fault code.
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Well it all started when I was having starter issues my starter died and my solenoid was just clicking and after time there was no power at all to anything in the truck i have replaced the solenoid and starter and check battery and cleaned post and terminals. I am going to replace my negative cable as it was pretty bad but if this still does not work, so what to look for. The truck is an 87 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed with a 2.9....
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A buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
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My compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
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My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
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Ok I got the brake pull fixed (I think) on my 92 Ranger 4x2 4.0 extended cab. I still will have to change the driver's side brake hose for prevention and the driver's side caliper just so everything will be new. But it stops straight now with a new brake job, pass caliper and hose on. However, this other problem has been ongoing and it does it on my 1998 Ranger too. It's not the heater core.
I think the evaporator case is filling with water and dripping down under the carpet. So the drain tube must be stopped or the case must have a bunch of leaves stopping it up. But where is this tube you're suppose to check? I don't see a conventional drain tube I only see a blower motor vent tube that doesn't drain to the outside of the car anywhere. I know my 73 Charger has a rubber drain tube that comes out of the evaporator case and drains onto the ground. But where is this one on a Ranger or what else could it be? It's only the passenger side so it's got to be that.
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'92 Ranger 2WD with 4 cyl and 9" brakes, right rear wheel cylinder keeps blowing out, replaced it twice. I've thought about maybe an obstruction in the left brake line creating too much pressure, or in the junction block on the rear axle. I believe only one line leads to there from the master cylinder, so what else could it be? Only other thing I can think of is that the right brake has a mechanical problem which is causing the forward shoe to move too far away from the cylinder, leaving no 'stop' so the piston just slides right out of the cylinder. But I can't figure that. Original adjuster star wheel was chewed up so I swapped in another, doubt it's that.
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I recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
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I have 92 ranger with 3.0 v6 in it.
It flashes out code 212 ive replaced the ICM and checked the spout connector for corrosion but it still flashes out 212 and has a rough idle no power on acceleration condition.
also when the idle starts acting up the check engine light stays real dim and if you rev it it will get brighter
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1992 Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L stick shift no AC no power steering. Recently the temp gauge began fluttering in the cold range from far left to just below the normal range. The defrost and heater blows only cold air. I had a professional shop radiator flush done. No change. I changed the engine thermostat out for a new one but no change. The upper radiator hose feels hot, so I assume the thermostat is working.
Questions: Where is the temp gauge sensor located on the engine? Is there another sensor or shutoff before the heater that might not be working? Where do I take things apart to check if the heater blend door is working?
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The truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
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All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
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So I've got this 1992 Ranger extended cab with power door locks and neither side is working. It has power windows too and they work fine. I checked the 30amp fuse under the hood for the power door locks and it's good and checked it with a test light and it's good. What's most likely the cause that both sides don't work? Is there a way to troubleshoot with a test light to trace down the problem as a bad switch or actuator?
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I have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
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