Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1992 - Hesitation / Starts Spinning Tires Under Full Throttle From A Dead Stop
Jan 25, 2015
So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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2002 Ranger XLT 4WD 4.0.. I was passing another car at about 55 when they also started speeding up (go figure) so I floored it and got on around them but before I lifted I felt it miss, the CEL began flashing so I slowed to the speed limit and went on to work. The light flashed for about a mile then went out. So on the way home I floored it again close to home and the CEL came on again. Got home and put the code reader on it and all it had was a random misfire so I have cleared it. The truck has new plugs, wires, etc for a complete tune-up. I don't usually run at full throttle so don't know if that would be normal for the Ranger, the Ranger was my wife's truck for 12 years and now is my DD. Need to clear this up? Thought of changing the fuel filter in that is still the original one.
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My ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
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My 1995 ranger was running just fine then today overheats in five minutes and then runs at very high rpms, has 2yr old water pump new tstat don't think head is blown no water in oil no white smoke no water on the oil cap, I haven't check the plugs for water, stated raining no garage, when engine is cold starts runs fine,but when it gets hot its like a train...
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The truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
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Having throttle hesitation problems. This is the 3rd time I have had it in for this problem and they can't figure out what is wrong. The vehicle moves slightly forward from a stop and then goes dead for a few seconds then seems to recover and go.
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
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That's the best way I can describe part my latest problem. If I'm stopped at a light, a lot of the time it almost feels like it wants to stall when I first pull out. Then, it seems like it is shifting funny at certain speeds like the transmission can't decide what gear it wants to be in. Tends to do that about mid acceleration (don't have an rpm gauge to look at). At idle it seems to run fine. BTW, engine also runs rough with the ac on.
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Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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I had to really hard brake today over a very very short distance...the tires locked and the car slid for about 5 feet. Car is 2000 corolla, 4-spd auto.
As soon as I came to a full stop, I notice the engine was still "spinning" like it was in second gear...because the RPM was around 1000rpm (idle is 650). As soon as I started moving, there was a slight clunk noise (sounded like it came from CV half axle/transmission).
Although rare, This also happened a couple of times before when hard braking. It downshifts to 2.. idles around 1000rpm for a couple of seconds... and then there is a "slight" clunk noise.
Other than this, the transmission/engine has been very smooth and the car has no problems.
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My GTI is the first FWD car I've had since 1985, so the issue that I'm having may be just me adapting to a front drive platform. Here's what's happening: when I nail the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, on or about 4K rpm or above, the car feels as if it's hesitating slightly as the revs climb.
It accelerates fiercely (I have the JB1, and I had the Neuspeed Power Module before it, and it's reacted the same way with each mod), and it's almost as if the front end of the car is lifting and struggling for traction (although the traction control light doesn't come on).
Is what I'm experiencing normal FWD behavior? Is it the beginning of torque steer? I only notice this at full throttle--not noticeable at all at partial throttle. Also, it doesn't happen consistently. My car is a performance package manual.
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Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
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My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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My 40 Ford pickup is on an 86 Ranger chassis and uses the stock Ranger steering gear. My question is about the connections on the steering box. I'm using a GM power steering pump and several steering gear vendors have told me that outside of needing to adjust the pressure for the correct feel, the combo works. I fired the truck for the first time tonight but the steering wheel went crazy, shaking around and finally spinning on it's own to a hard left.
Some quick research leads me to believe that I have the lines reversed but it would be great to know for sure. I did manage to find on e diagram of a Ford PS box on Google and it shows the lines reversed of what I have set up on my truck and I can't for the life of me remember how I figured out what the plumbing should be when I installed it. Which port on the box is the inlet and which is the return?
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My 2011 Lincoln MKT hesitates after a full stop...randomly. After I apply the gas she will hesitate, as if she can't find the right gear, RPM's go out of sight then there's a sudden and hard jerk and away we go! The weather is not a factor...happens anytime anywhere. The cruise control will shut off randomly as well. At times the warning buzzer and light flash on the windscreen that we are about to crash...and there are no vehicles in the way.
It has been to the dealership 4 times in the past 3 months for this and they can't find anything wrong... (Ford does not have a bulletin on this problem either. We've had the car since Feb. 2011 - it has 20,000 miles on it now. Regular maintenance is done as scheduled.)
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Our 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
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I need to better qualify when it happens (it may be always, not certain) but when I first drive off in my car in the morning I find the initial 10s or so there is a delay before my power comes on stream.
So I am moving, but very slowly and the V8 doesn't seem to be pulling. There is a stop sign at the end of my street that is maybe 5 houses away, so there isn't a lot of time for acceleration, but its mostly momentum before I hit the stop sign, even if I had depressed the accelerator.
It doesn't jerk or anything when the power comes online but it is very strange to me that there is a delay. Is this normal or an indication of a problem or wear item somewhere?
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I have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
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I have a 2009 F150 4x4, XLT crew 6.5' bed, 5.4 engine. The truck has a very strange erratic throttle behavior from a dead stop through low speeds, shifting seems very strange at low speeds too.
Dealer tried re-flashing the computer, but that didn't fix it. They talk about some valve that sounds to me like it's similar to an EGR function, but I cant remember what he called this valve. He explained the issue as exhaust gasses that are to be recirculated and burned, but the valve is opening at the wrong time, or stuck open or something so it feeds the fire so to speak.
Does any of this sound typical or common? Is this something that's hopefully easier to do than a spark plug change on a 5.4?
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Gas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
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