I'm working on a 1992 ranger with the 2.3l. Hard start almost every time, sometimes have to hold throttle open sometimes not. Won't start at all this morning. When it does finally start it takes a while for it to start firing on the intake side plugs. Haven't had time to check fuel pressure yet but can hear pump cycle when key is switched on.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
View 12 Replies1992 Ford Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L engine and 5 speed manual transmission. 135,000 miles, no AC and no power steering. I am having poor clutch disengagement and resulting hard shifting. The shop added a little fluid to the reservoir last oil change and it is still looking full. I always park on concrete and never see any leaking. I don't know what may have been done before as I haven't had the pickup all that long. Where should I start? Is there probably internal bypass leaking in the hydraulic clutch as there seems to be no external leaking?
View 4 RepliesI have a 92 ford ranger. About a year ago it shut down on me as I was pulling out of a parking lot. I replaced the Cam sensor which IS NOT located on the engine block by the fire wall. It is located on the front of the engine just above the primary cam which is just above the crank shaft and its sensor. It fired right up.
Then the oil pump went out and I just replaced it the other day and the pressure gauge/needle went past the half way mark even at idle. I drove around a bit, maybe 10 miles, then got in it to go to the gas station and got about 50ft from the house and it just died again and will not crank back up.
I am thinking its that darn cam sensor again. But, just like the oil pump was, it's a pain to get to and replace. How to test it. Oh, it is a 2.3 4 cyl. double overhead cam. I do have fuel pressure, I checked that already.
I am the owner of a 1992 ford ranger 4.0 that refuses to start. She turns over, but theres no pressure coming out of the fuel rack/valve. Might be the fuel pump but it started with a little boost about a month ago and now nothing. Head gasket and transmission have been tuned up as well! I've also checked the power distribution box, and spark plugs both seem to be doing thier job! What am i missing?!
View 2 RepliesMy Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
View 9 RepliesI have to fix the truck. Battery is pretty new, replaced solenoid next to battery this morning. Truck still won't start, just clicking away. Decided I needed to replace the starter, put the truck on jacks and went to the starter. At the starter solenoid there is a red cable attached, and a "loose" red wire, with a connector on the end. It would appear the connector just needs to be reconnected to the solenoid. But it won't "connect". Am I missing something? Should it not connect to the prong on the solenoid? Should I just replace the starter, and forget about the wire? I do have Chiltons for our truck, but it doesn't show a picture of the prong on the starter solenoid.
View 11 RepliesGrandson 1991 Ranger 3.0 v6 69,000 miles We have a long start issue after it has sat for 30 mins. plus. If you open the throttle part way while cranking it will start fairly easily. Fuel pressure comes up instantly when you turn on the key. It runs at 39 psi pull the vac line off regulator it jumps to 49 psi. Fuel pressure does drop to about 30 psi after setting an hour. It kinda acts like it is flooded when it starts. so far we have done a complete tune up plugs wires cap and rotor. The ignition module has been replaced twice last one a real Motorcraft. New fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the fuel injectors with Ford cleaning system. I will replace the coil next and maybe clean the iac.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 4wd Ranger with rear anti-lock brakes. The ABS light comes on every time I start and drive less than 100yds. It stays on until you shut the truck off. I found the test plug, and followed procedures to get the codes, but the ABS light won't flash at all. I checked fluid level and fuses. I replaced the rear sensor about a year ago, when that went I lost speedometer and OD off light stayed on. I wouldn't rule the sensor out, but I'd like to get codes. To get codes I grounded the Black/Orange wire with the key in Run position.
View 10 RepliesI now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
View 12 RepliesMy 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
View 8 Replies2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
View 1 RepliesMy compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
View 7 RepliesMy 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
View 14 RepliesOk I got the brake pull fixed (I think) on my 92 Ranger 4x2 4.0 extended cab. I still will have to change the driver's side brake hose for prevention and the driver's side caliper just so everything will be new. But it stops straight now with a new brake job, pass caliper and hose on. However, this other problem has been ongoing and it does it on my 1998 Ranger too. It's not the heater core.
I think the evaporator case is filling with water and dripping down under the carpet. So the drain tube must be stopped or the case must have a bunch of leaves stopping it up. But where is this tube you're suppose to check? I don't see a conventional drain tube I only see a blower motor vent tube that doesn't drain to the outside of the car anywhere. I know my 73 Charger has a rubber drain tube that comes out of the evaporator case and drains onto the ground. But where is this one on a Ranger or what else could it be? It's only the passenger side so it's got to be that.
'92 Ranger 2WD with 4 cyl and 9" brakes, right rear wheel cylinder keeps blowing out, replaced it twice. I've thought about maybe an obstruction in the left brake line creating too much pressure, or in the junction block on the rear axle. I believe only one line leads to there from the master cylinder, so what else could it be? Only other thing I can think of is that the right brake has a mechanical problem which is causing the forward shoe to move too far away from the cylinder, leaving no 'stop' so the piston just slides right out of the cylinder. But I can't figure that. Original adjuster star wheel was chewed up so I swapped in another, doubt it's that.
View 14 RepliesI recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
View 1 Replies I have 92 ranger with 3.0 v6 in it.
It flashes out code 212 ive replaced the ICM and checked the spout connector for corrosion but it still flashes out 212 and has a rough idle no power on acceleration condition.
also when the idle starts acting up the check engine light stays real dim and if you rev it it will get brighter
1992 Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L stick shift no AC no power steering. Recently the temp gauge began fluttering in the cold range from far left to just below the normal range. The defrost and heater blows only cold air. I had a professional shop radiator flush done. No change. I changed the engine thermostat out for a new one but no change. The upper radiator hose feels hot, so I assume the thermostat is working.
Questions: Where is the temp gauge sensor located on the engine? Is there another sensor or shutoff before the heater that might not be working? Where do I take things apart to check if the heater blend door is working?
The truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
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