Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1992 - Fuel Pump Does Not Work When It Is Cold Outside
Jan 18, 2013
I have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
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Truck quit running yesterday suddenly and unexpectedly. It sputtered briefly and the motor total quit running. I pulled over and tried to start and it briefly fired but then totally quit. Got towed home. And now testing to see what all to repair..Thinking fuel.
I don't get any codes from the tester with KOEO..just the good to go etc..no codes or the good to go 111..etc. Guess this problem can't be identified without motor running.
My wiring diagram doesn't give me all for my Calif car..I don't see where the relay is but my fuses are all good, and I'm getting voltage when I crank the motor at that inside firewall switch on both its wires(incoming/outgoing)..forget what its called..Inertia Switch?..that will shut off fuel pump during accident or impact etc. And I've read that this switch is upstream of the relay(if I read that post correctly) so guessing it's the pump itself that is bad.
Does that sound right? Should I go ahead and pull the fuel tank etc and replace the pump? Or is there more testing I should do? When I turn the ignition key on..the pump makes zero sound. That's not the way it normally operates. Usually with the key on the fuel pump comes on momentarily and I can hear it. Forget how to drain the fuel tank etc..I don't see a drain plug? I did it once many years ago..but forget how?
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I filled up with gas this week on my 92 Ranger extended cab and when it got to full I noticed it was leaking down the side of the tank in-line with the filler neck. I couldn't make out exactly where it was coming from. It wasn't coming out of the filler neck I know. I noticed I had been smelling a strong gas smell but I thought it was a bad gas cap. I've never dropped a tank on any of my Rangers. I've also got a 93 and 98 regular cab but always had someone do it. I know that on my 98 the big plastic lock ring deteriorated over time and I had to have it replaced because it was leaking when I filled it up. I'm suspecting the same on this 92. I got a print out of the fuel tank and components from Ford trying to prepare myself to have everything I need if I try and drop the tank myself to check. It looks like it has one of those plastic lock rings, a filler neck grommet, and some kind of vapor grommet. It shows some kind of shield over the fuel pump assembly. Will I need anything special to remove that big plastic lock ring, the hoses, or to drop the tank? I know it's got that heat shield around it. It looks intimidating. I don't want to break anything but can't afford to keep paying all the labor to get the small problems fixed on this Ranger. The only fuel tanks I've dropped and changed were on my 65 Valiant and 73 Charger but they required no special fuel line removal tools. Is anything going to be hard removing this fuel tank? I probably will put in a new fuel pump just to, since it's running the original 22-year-old fuel pump.
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The fuse and relay have been tested. There actually is 5 volts at the fuel pump. The truck was running OK when the clutch went out. It wouldn't start after the clutch was replaced. The inertia switch is OK. I don't know where to look now....
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Anyway just got a new fuel pump put in my 99 3.0 Ranger and now after it's warmed up from a few miles it starts to choke and almost die. No CEL comes on and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in and still the same thing. I read something about maybe cleaning EGR.?
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Fuel pump does not work in Cold Weather, but works fine in warm weather? Will replacing the pump solve this or is there a bad sensor somewhere else causing the problem?
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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My '94 4.0L XLT has hesitated to start a couple times lately. Then, after sitting for a week while we were on vacation, the truck would not start at all today.
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I read about the fuel pump relay, so since I am not made of money, I decided to change that first ($16 vs. $100). After installing the new relay, the truck started! I put the old relay in the box and tossed it into the glove box.
After lunch, and some thought, i decided I wanted to put the old relay back in and see what happened. Guess what! It started with the old relay as well! I also noticed that the humming/buzzing sound the fuel pump makes when the switch is turned on was different with the new relay vs the old one. I put the new relay back in, but now I am unsure where my real problem lies. Intermittent relay, or fuel pump on its way out??
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I can't get power to the fuel pump on my 91 ranger 3.0 5 speed. I just bought the truck and replaced all the relays checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. If I jump the relay it comes on and wont go off.
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My 1995 ford ranger with a 3.0 will not start. It acted like the fuel pump was going out so I replaced it. I also replaced cmp sensor and the camshaft synchronizer due to old cmp sensor broke and messed up the synchronizer. My truck is getting fuel and spark but still will not start. Where do i go next?
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I've got a 2000 ranger w 158k miles, been having issues with a misfire over 65mph, and it's been throwing a check engine O2 sensor code. One of the probable reasons for the O2 code read low fuel pressure... so my husband got the bright idea of replacing the fuel pump.
That turned out to be a big story in and of itself. BUT we got it replaced with one that works, however.... now it won't start!!! You have to pump the gas and like crazy and hope that it'll start, it will eventually... but not without a bunch of coaching.
Once it's running, it's running ok. The first day after replacing the pump it was AWESOME, ran like it used to years ago, no misfire, smooth as could be, no rattle, no check engine light. But it all came back it's misfiring again, rattling when you accelerate, and the check engine is back on. I haven't had a chance to go run and get the codes ran again, maybe tomorrow I'll be able to do that in between errands. Oh, and we are gonna replace the fuel filter at some point in this week...
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My 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
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My 1999 4.0L v6 Ranger (auto trans) is having some issues. Recently the fuel pump won't turn on as normal when I turn my key. I have to turn the ignition on and off 10-20 times before I hear the pump kick on and I can start it. I already checked the relay and fuel pump shut-off switch. Neither was the bad.
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I have a 1988 Ranger 2.9 V6 that sits most of the time. The fuel pump quit working so I removed the bed and replaced the pump in the tank and the inline filter near the engine. I did not replace the inline high pressure pump because it still made a humming sound so I assumed it is working. Now when I turn the switch on I hear both pumps working but the truck will not start. It seems like it wants to fire or fires for just a second but just wont completely start. Is the system supposed to be primed and if so how?. I suspect a fuel problem but I dont know how to check pressure or check to see if fuel is getting to the engine. What to do next?
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I'm working on a truck for a friend's mother and all of the tests that I've done point to the fuel pump. However, to make sure the pump is getting voltage past the large connector block under the cab, I would like to do a pin-out test before I pull the tank (or the bed). The pump will not run/prime in KOEO test, the relay is good, as are all of the fuses and the inertia switch.
Looking for a wiring diagram handy for this purpose? I've look all over this forum and searched quite extensively and I haven't found one for this year. Since it isn't my truck, I don't feel like purchasing a manual. I'm working on a 2003 3.0 2WD Auto.
If a wiring diagram isn't available, what colors are the wires going to the fuel pump? That way I can at least test the ground and the positive.
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Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
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My daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
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I've been driving 93 ranger 3.0 4wd since last fall. first week I went to start and fuel pump relay had blown. I put a new one in and been driving since fine, till today. Now when I try to start, if it starts it will run fine all day as long as you don't turn it off. If you turn it off and restart half the times it will pop relay again. My fuel gauge has been stuck on full since I bought it also. I'm wondering if maybe pump has got had to start and drawing too much current...
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1985 2.3L... New fuel pump And fuel pump relay, problem was happening before new parts. the wires at inertia switch continue to get hot switch has been removed. The heat continues to under the hood where there is some so rt of connecting link and heat stops.what the is this link for, it doesn't look like A fusible link?? Saw a similar post here about a fuel pump shutting down and wires getting hot. Same problem.
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I drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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