Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1991 - Take Very Long Time To Start?
May 28, 2014
Grandson 1991 Ranger 3.0 v6 69,000 miles We have a long start issue after it has sat for 30 mins. plus. If you open the throttle part way while cranking it will start fairly easily. Fuel pressure comes up instantly when you turn on the key. It runs at 39 psi pull the vac line off regulator it jumps to 49 psi. Fuel pressure does drop to about 30 psi after setting an hour. It kinda acts like it is flooded when it starts. so far we have done a complete tune up plugs wires cap and rotor. The ignition module has been replaced twice last one a real Motorcraft. New fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the fuel injectors with Ford cleaning system. I will replace the coil next and maybe clean the iac.
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I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
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When ever i am at a complete stop, i have to hold down the clutch pedal for about 4 seconds before it will go into any gear. If i'm in motion it shifts flawlessly through all gears. But if i stop and put it into neutral and let off the clutch, the next time i push it down it will take about 4 seconds to slide in any gear including reverse. I just bought the truck a few days ago so i don't know its history but everything seems well maintained. What this is and if it will cause major issues down the line?
1995 Ranger XLT 2.3L SOHC 2WD 5spd 169,000 miles...
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My 1991 ranger with a 4.0 turns over but will not start. It acted like it ran out of gas put again seems to do ok then it did same thing it sat over night then would not start so I thought I would put some gas in the intake so it starts ran real rough but smoothed after a few minutes ran fine after that next morning same thing no start did same put gas in intake at first no start just turned over didn't even try let it sit for awhile then tried again it fires up ran rough but ran now I get nothing just turns over pulled codes 22and 122 replaced both had ignition mod checked its good new coil pack no change so at this point i hear fuel pump kick on fuel getting to fuel bar but seems a bit week on pressure going to get pressure gauge and see what it says but in the meantime I am loosing my mind...
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Getting the Banana ready for it's smog test appt at the shop last night (it WAS today) Check engine light had popped on and it had been starting to sputter and surge at the idle occasionally for the last few days so I took a look at the MAF and saw dirty wires. Aha I can fix that, a couple squirts of MAF cleaner, plug it back in and voila! No more light, the Banana ran down the road around the block, over the hill and through the dale like a champ. I shut her down and call it a night.
This morning, hop in and fire the Banana up like usual and all I get is a nice peppy crank over. The Banana has had a bunch (pun intended) of new parts throw at her recently... new battery, starter solenoid, plugs and fuel pump relay and fuel filter. All within the last couple of months.
Out of complete disbelief, I ground on the ignition for a little while and she finally kicked over and sputtered to life. I let her idle a couple of minutes and things seemed fine so off we go. I make it about a block before the Banana starts hiccuping and bucking like something possessed and dies.... kaput.
The Banana has a 3.0, manual transmission and at least half a tank of fuel. Long story short and a tow truck ride home again, half a day trying unsuccessfully to pull a code, any code.... nothing. She will half-heartedly cough and spastically run with ether shots and near as I can tell I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail relief port. I'm really hoping there is some way to diagnose a faulty fuel pump without having to drop the tank and fish the damn thing out.
I'm not hearing it run when the ignition is turned on but then again I don't think I've ever heard it run. Any other things to try before I replace the pump itself???
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I have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I'm working on a 1992 ranger with the 2.3l. Hard start almost every time, sometimes have to hold throttle open sometimes not. Won't start at all this morning. When it does finally start it takes a while for it to start firing on the intake side plugs. Haven't had time to check fuel pressure yet but can hear pump cycle when key is switched on.
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I have a 2000 4wd Ranger with rear anti-lock brakes. The ABS light comes on every time I start and drive less than 100yds. It stays on until you shut the truck off. I found the test plug, and followed procedures to get the codes, but the ABS light won't flash at all. I checked fluid level and fuses. I replaced the rear sensor about a year ago, when that went I lost speedometer and OD off light stayed on. I wouldn't rule the sensor out, but I'd like to get codes. To get codes I grounded the Black/Orange wire with the key in Run position.
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I recently bought a 91 Ranger 4wd for my son. The guy I bought it from put new manual lock outs on it. every time I take the tire off on either side the hub comes with it! Is there a clip or retainer missing? If so what and where can I get one?
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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My ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
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1991 2.3 l. Thought I had an exhaust manifold Leak. Replaced gasket. New gasket didn't work. Removed gasket and mounted manifold to engine metal to metal, still and noise. Installed New manifold with gasket. Still same noise. Am thinking noise not coming from manifold. Torqued all bolts to spec. Could it be lifters .
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I have a 91 Ranger that the A/C was working great in but all of a sudden it stopped working even the fan. I turned it of and back on and it started again but then just stopped for good I can get the fan to work sometime, but no cold air. What it might be?
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I can't get power to the fuel pump on my 91 ranger 3.0 5 speed. I just bought the truck and replaced all the relays checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. If I jump the relay it comes on and wont go off.
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1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
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I have a 91 Ranger V6 4WD with 150K that has been sitting for 7 years. The last time I drove it (7 years ago) to a mechanic, who diagnosed it with a bad head gasket - leaking coolant and coolant in the oil.
What am I looking at as far as a project: besides redoing the head gasket, what else will I most likely need to do given that its been sitting 7 years?
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My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
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It looks like my door lock wire looms go under the hood but I haven't had any luck finding them. Install an alarm with negative 500Ma pulse to operate them ? I have relays but am also wondering if the truck has its own somewhere that I can piggyback onto. I know the colors are Pink with a yellow stripe and Pink with a light green stripe.
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My 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
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I spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
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