Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1991 - Clutch Master Cylinder Shaft Bent?
Feb 17, 2013
I spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
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I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
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My Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
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Is it what it looks like? Why is it there, to pressure bleed the system through it rather than using a modified MC cap?
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1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
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Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
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Can contaminated or old fluid make the clutch slave cylinder not function correctly? Mine won't completely disengage the clutch after sitting for several hours or if its really cold outside. The master is new and has been bled but now the fluid looks black.
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
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I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
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I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
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I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
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I replaced the seal the other day on my ranger because I noticed my fluid disappearing. Went ahead and changed the filter and fluid as well. Flushed the system, and I go back to my truck tonight and there's a huge puddle of trans fluid. And the output shaft seal is once again, up against the drive shaft. I've spent like $150 on trans fluid since Friday, and $1000+ to get the truck running again last month, so pardon me if I get edgy about her.
99 2.5 auto. I changed the trans pan gasket too. No leaks from it.
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In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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I'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
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I just bought a 5speed manual 2004 ford ranger 4x4 and when shifting usually upshiffter 1-2-3 I get a mi8ld clunk when I looked underneath I grabbed and can move the from drive shaft clockwise about 1/4 inch is this normal and if not how do I fix this?
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