Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1990 XLT V6 - Loud Constant Whistle Sound On Driver Side
May 15, 2014
So I have a 1990 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2.9 v6. My issue is I am getting a loud constant whistle sound on the drivers side, just in front of the rear tire. It is not from the tire and it is a whistle not a whine. The truck is all stock nothing special. I do not have an exhaust anymore only a cat. Anyways the sound is constant an does not get louder or quieter while moving or in neutral it just stays the same. It just started in the last few days. Also the truck is a Manual.
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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When driving down the road, there is a constant "thud thud thud" coming from the front driver's side of my 99 Ranger. I've been looking online for about two hours now, going back and forth to my truck to see if I can figure out the problem. All I've come up with is that it's the sway bar links. they're both disconnected, and I'm going to replace them anyway, but would that cause the constant thudding?
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Bought a 2002 ranger with a four liter in it. Didn't notice until actually going off-road there is something wrong with the four wheel drive. In 4 high it will drive good for a random distance then a loud bang, pop, comes from what feels like it's the driver front tire. The faster you're moving the worse it is. It's not consistent at all.
Replaced the transfer case shift motor and both CV axles. Still does it. Walked next to the truck while it's moving and the front tires look like something is in a bind and it's causing the bang. Beating my head against the wall at this point.
On a side note it has something wrong with the tranny. Taking off it feels like someone bumped the rear, and after about twenty minutes of driving od light starts blinking and it shifts hard from first to second. Kill it, cures that specific problem just not the takeoff problem. Not sure if this is all related. Pulled the pan and refilled with as much fluid as came out. Which was a dark red. Still having same issues.
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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I've got an 08' Ranger FX4. Recently I had the drivers-side headlight go out. Today I replaced the light, and while I was there, I decided to check every bulb on the truck. Everything else works, but I noticed the 2 factory "foglights" will not come on. This is a fairly recent development, because I use those lights quite often.
Even thought they don't cast a huge amount of light, here in the Vancouver area, winters are dark & rainy, so I think 4 points of light as opposed to 2 points is a benefit. To activate those lights, you pull on the headlight selector switch. Do those lights have their own dedicated circuit with fuse? Or does this sound like a switch problem?
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I bought my 2011 Santa Fe about 6 weeks ago and only have just over 1000km on the odometer. I have an appointment next week to have the dealer look at my car because I hear a lot of noises. First, I hear a constant squeaking sound in the driver's side window/door frame. I think I have this figured out - it's the weather stripping/seal on the door - perhaps the door isn't fitting tightly. I'm not too worried about that sound. I'm also hearing a rattling sound in the rear end, usually when I go over bumps. It sounds like something underneath the car is loose and is banging every time I hit a bump. It's not a loud rattling noise, but enough to be noticed for sure. Also, I've heard a rattling noise on the front passenger's side door somewhere but I can't seem to pinpoint where exactly. Again, it's like something is loose and rattles when I hit a bump. Should I be concerned? I'm a bit nervous because the last car I bought turned out to be a complete lemon and I bought the Santa Fe to rid myself of worry - I haven't been successful with that so far. I have gone through the interior to make sure nothing's loose and rolling around and making the noises, I've repositioned all the seat belt tensioners etc - nothing makes these noises go away.
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Just installed raxle on my driver side. All clicking sounds are fixed but I noticed if I take right turns sometimes you can hear a constant clunking sound coming from the driver side wheel. It doesn't happen all the time, you kinda have to turn and hit a certain angle of the steering wheel. Also, only happens when driving low, if I raise the car just a little bit its gone. Never had issues with my oem axle binding so Im not sure how exactly does the binding sound?
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I've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
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I have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
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1987 ford ranger loaned it out and they said the hub spins on the driver side but the tire won't engage so it has no 4 wheel drive. Soon as I get it back hopefully today will know more.
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I'm normally in the bullnose section, but recently started working on my father-in-law's 96 ford ranger. He wanted me to replace the front rotors.
I replaced the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to replace the driver's side, I noticed the cotter pin and castle nut were missing. A nail was in the cotter pin's place. I backed off the spindle nut and found that the threads were eaten up, as was most of the spindle with various gouges and nicks.
1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 ......
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I am a new owner of my first truck and it is a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0L Extended Edge with 138,000 miles on it. I keep getting a chirping noise coming from driver side of truck. It only happens when I have the AC on. I can turn AC to just air and the chirping stops. This only happens when I am driving. If I have my truck parked in drive with the hood up, I go and turn on AC full blast and I hear no chirping. I can see AC compressor turn on a few seconds after I start the truck and it is not cycling on or off every few seconds as some people I have asked told me it should do. AC air is ice cold so I should have enough freon. Now this chirping is not constant like a machine gun going off but just about every 5 seconds or so it would chirp. I have heard of bad camshaft sensors causing chirping but would that happen every few seconds and only when you are driving down the road with the AC on? Now I have noticed when truck has sat for a long time I get belt squeal for a few seconds and it then goes away. I think the squeal goes away when AC compressor starts because I observed this when looking for this random chirp. Any clues?
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I have a 97 ranger 4 cyl that's been making a whistle noise the last few weeks. The sound is literally like a whistle and the noise level varies but its never obnoxious or loud. The sound does not happen when truck is idle, seems to happen mostly when I first accelerate and slow down although sometimes it does happen when I am going 20-30. it doesn't happen all the time but lately its happening more. What this could be? The truck idles and runs great.
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I have this 03 3.0 flex fuel that as of lately (2 months) has developed a whistle when throttle is pressed half way or more.... not sure what or where its coming from..
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I noticed that one of my vacuum lines was bad on the driver's side. I've done a lot of reading on the 4WD systems and frankly I'm confused now. My understanding is that when in 2WD the solenoid is open pulling a vacuum on the actuators (IWE) which keeps them disengaged. When you switch to 4WD the shift motor on the transfer case sends power to the front wheels and the solenoid turns off the vacuum which engages the actuators sending power to the wheels. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak the actuators won't disengage properly.
Through my trouble shooting I've determined that I think the solenoid is working properly because I'm getting a vacuum when in 2WD and no vacuum in 4WD. I believe that both actuators are engaged and working properly when in 4WD. However, I must not be getting a vacuum to the driver's side actuator (hub) because the line is totally busted up and can't possibly hold a vacuum. However the passenger side line looks good to me. Does this mean that I've been driving around in "3WD"??? I don't seem to have any problems when in 2WD turning (no tire skip or hop).
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I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
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I bought a set of Ranger seats for my 1957 Ford project. My question is the drivers side seat reclining mechanism is broke. I believe the seats are out of an STX or sport model, they have a slide out bolster and power lumbar and side bolsters.
Where to get a replacement mechanism. The mechanism works the handle is busted off. It is from an extra cab so the handle is a two way for the driver and or if anyone in the back wanted to use it. I think they may be from a 1992, only say this because I had one backin the day with these kind of seats.
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New motorcraft plugs, wires, and coil packs. I'm running havoline 5w30 with a motorcraft filter now. I didn't notice the tick when I got it only a few months ago, but it could have been there and not as noisy, I'm not really sure.
I've got some parts to put on when I get time. Probably be a month or 2. I have a timing belt and tensioner, water pump, block heater, drive belt, tensioner, and idler.
It's a constant tick. Worse when cold, but still there warm. Sounds like under the valve cover. I'm not afraid to get in there and fix it, just would like to hear some opinions on what it could be for sure. I've read about the lucas and high mileage oil combo maybe reducing the noise, but if its fixable, I'd like to do it when I have it torn down for the timing belt, which is original I'm sure by looking at it. I really don't like abnormal noises from my engine compartment. Bugs the crap out of me.
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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