1990 Ranger 5 speed... The tranny has recently started making noises, first I thought it was the throw out bearing but I am afraid it is more than that. As I go thru the gears the trans makes rattling/grinding sounds: in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th it is loud but 4th it is quiet. What might be going on inside the tranny....
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 3.0L XLT 2WD Ranger with 7.5" traction-lock differential started making expensive noises last weekend coming from the rear end. Shop has not yet opened up the differential because the initial though was just do a swap.
Turns out that 7.5" LS is hard to find, plenty of open diffs available. So I suggested that I'd rather swap in an 8.8" LS rear end anyway but turns out that these are also hard to find. Was a LS rear end option just not very common? or do these get scooped up just as fast as they become available?
My 90 Ford Ranger 4 banger is my construction beater. I had replaced the starter because the old on had refused to fully engage into the flywheel. After replacing it it worked fine for a few months and started doing the same grinding sound again. I took that starter back thinking it may have been defective. After replacing s new one again It did it again after one day plus it kept on going after turning off the key. To stop the grinding I quickly disconnected the battery. I still kept on going when ever I reconnected the battery. what is going on?
View 5 RepliesWent on a 400 mile trip today and noticed some strange noises. The rig is an 06 F250 lariat, V10, Zf6, SC, LB and only has 43k miles. It behaves normally except when coasting down a hill at 65+ mph, and it doesn't matter if I'm in neutral or overdrive, it makes a feint grinding sound that gets louder as speed increases. Maybe grinding isn't the best word to describe it, I'd say a cross between humming and light grinding. As soon as I give it any throttle or put any load on the tranny is goes away. It's really freaking me out as I just got the truck a month ago and I know the ZF6's are almost bulletproof.
View 14 RepliesI have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
View 14 RepliesI got a 1990 Ranger 4x4 2.9l that loves to get hot only when the ac is on. The engine was rebuilt by me about 2000 miles ago and I made sure to have the block boiled in order to clean out any crap that could've been built up in the water jackets. So far the radiator, cap, thermostat, and fan clutch have been replaced. The fan shroud is intact and the condenser has a few bent fins but not many.
Here in Vegas we're looking at 100+ from 10 am - 4 pm so the ac is a must. I could be sitting at a light all day with the ac turned off and the truck doesn't have an issue. When I turn the ac on though the truck almost immediately begins to get hot. The engine drops maybe 100 rpms and the voltage gauge also drops a little. At night if I'm running the ac the voltage drops to what looks like 10 volts.
While the ac is on there is an immediate loss of power as well. In my head I'm thinking a failing compressor, water pump, and alternator are at fault. It doesn't matter if the truck is moving either, the temp still climbs.I know the rangers are funky with their cooling so when I burped the system i turned the heater on and lifted the front end about 1 ft off the ground with the cap off.
1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
View 6 RepliesI have a 90' Ford Ranger, rear wheel drive.
I can not find a 2 wheel drive automatic transmission and I was wondering if I can convert a 4 wheel drive transmission?
My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
View 1 RepliesJust picked up a 90 Ranger last night, 4.0 EC, good ole A4LD, from a recipt I found has 70K or so on rebuild, was driving it today and the TC unlocked, and now it won't lock back up. I checked fluid and it was a little low, topped it off and drove it, and it was the same thing. I'm kinda new to thease A4LDs I know they can have issues, but can be good too. Just want to know whats going on so I can fix it! No codes were found when I scanned it. Trans otherwise shifts fine, you can feel it go into OD but no lockup.
View 13 RepliesI have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
View 1 RepliesMine has a strange issue. 1990 xlt 2.9L manual 4x4. When first start of the day, after start I push accelerator and it has a hesitation like not getting fuel. Where start?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0 auto trans front transmission seal went bad, I've got everything unbolted abs ready to come put but the trans won't come over top of the front cross member, what could be the problem on why it won't come out?
View 3 RepliesI have this Accord I have replaced the starter, distributor, ECU, spark plugs and the ignitor and still can't get it to start. It turned off on me making a right turn and hasn't started since.
View 5 RepliesIs there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
View 1 RepliesMy 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
]I recently bought a 1990 ford ranger with a 2.9 @187,000 miles. That being said I went through and changed a few vacuum lines, the oil, air filter, pcv/grommet, and fuel filter.
The problem is it hates to start. I could crank on it for 10 seconds and not a single thing. Sometimes if i turn the key to the off position, wait a second, and try again, Ill get the truck to fire. When it does fire up it just reeks of the lean exhaust. It also gives me some hesitation when I rev it. I did a fuel pressure test (KOEO) last night and it gave me 32 psi and within a minute the needle fell to about 25 psi. I hear the fuel pump run for only 2-3 seconds too.
I've already pulled the MAF off and cleaned it, replaced the TPS, and did a fuel pressure test. The fuel filter is brand new
1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
1990 ford ranger.. I just bought this truck, check engine light stays on.. What can I do to find out what's the problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1990 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4 with the Mazda M5OD transmission. I took a peek under the truck the other night and I noticed that my slave cylinder is taking a little leak on me. I was wondering how to go about changing the slave. I could either pull the engine. Or pull the transmission and transfer case.
View 6 Replies