Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1990 2.9L - Bad Misfire After Doing A Tuneup / Bucks And Surges At Cruising Speed
Sep 12, 2012
My '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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I recently bought an '09 Santa Fe Limited. I want to love the vehicle, but I've got a problem with how it drives. Basically, here are the symptoms:
1. Engine RMPs dance around about 200 RPMs at idle. (I was told this is normal. I don't think it should be.)
2. Under normal acceleration, it bogs down immediately after shifting into 2nd gear and after a couple of seconds there is a surge and acceleration seems "normal."
3. Occasionally, I feel subtle fluctuations or surges in the engine under both acceleration and/or cruising speed (any speed, really.) It's like I'm feathering the throttle when I know I'm not. This is most pronounced when under a load, such as taking off from a stop sign at the bottom of a hill and accelerating up the hill.
So, here's what the dealer has done to address the issue.
1. According to the Carfax report, the previous owner had the throttle position sensor replaced at 22,000 miles and again at 27,000 miles. I bought the vehicle with just over 30,000 miles (certified pre-owned).
2. On the day that I bought the vehicle, I noticed the issue and the service manager took it for a test drive with me. He told me it was wind buffeting that I was feeling. I thought that was bunk, but with it being a higher profile vehicle, it put some doubt in my mind. He went ahead and flashed something to reset the adaptive learning module that supposedly adjusts something in the engine based on how you drive. It seemed better after that, so I went ahead and bought it.
3. After a few weeks of driving it, it became clear to me that it was definitely not wind buffeting, so I scheduled a service appt. It was taken for an "extensive" test drive (according to the service record) with a diagnostic computer connected. Apparently, the service technician said they were only able to find one small blip with the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced it and called it fixed. I should also note that at no time, have any codes ever shown up when they check for error codes.
4. Although it seem slightly better, the problem still exists. Just for kicks, I dumped a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank with my last fill up, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
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I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
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i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
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My 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 has had a low idle (not unsteady) for about a year. Just thought I needed a tune-up. Recently, it started surging and bucking between 40 and 50 MPH. Seems to run fine under acceleration, but then when backing off the accelerator, it starts the surging/bucking. The check engine light is on constantly. A diagnostic pointed to the EGR valve, which I replaced, but it didn't solve anything.
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 4.0 V6 Automatic. The problem is when it idles it idles low and surges up/down and pushes a very small amount of black smoke puffs and smells like gas. I have installed new coil, new wires, new plugs, new ect, new crankshaft position sensor, and new maf. It has new intake manifold, new injectors, new alternator and it still does the exact same thing. Nothing is phasing it. I ran the key on/engine off test and got egr codes and a map sensor code, then ran the engine running test and got 998 and 126 code. The 998 code says that its basically a hard fault/ have no idea.
I do know this is a donor engine out of another year not sure what year, but i know when i ordered the coolant temp sensor the only ones that would plug into it are the years 1990-1993. Now here's my other question, why would the computer give me a map sensor code when truck doesn't have a map sensor? It has MAF sensor, and why egr codes? The truck doesn't have egr and never came with it. I do know I've unhooked battery and replaced the maf and its like it doesn't even recognize it? Could it be the ecm/computer bad or needs flashed?
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OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
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After start up it bucks and surges, acts like it is starving. RPMs fluctuate. Once it fully warms up and driven a little bit it clears and runs normal. This all began after the alternator went bad and battery warning light came on. Batteries never went completely dead, but could low batteries effect sensors or control module. This morning it was difficult to start, not low battery problem, but a lot of bucking and black smoke. I changed the fuel filters and a little better. New air filter last week when alternator was replaced. No codes have appeared.
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I bought my 2012 Prius v with 99,000 miles. It started running rough at around 110,000. Time for new spark plugs.
I installed new OEM plugs. Still rough. New ignition coils, Still rough. My car was shaking & jerking at any cruising speed, fast or slow. It seemed to have trouble switching between the ICE (engine) and electric motor. It made a continuous click click click noise at slow speeds. I would get up to speed and let off the gas a little and it would start going chug, chug, chug until I gave more gas. I hated driving my car. The shaking was giving me a headache. I investigated every posibility; Motor mounts, ECU, trans, changed the trans fluid, cleaned the EGR tube, CV shafts, torque limiter, VVT, sluging, tried fuel injector cleaner. I took it to the dealer. They said there was a misfire on #4 cylinder. I told them the ignition was all new but the #4 spark plug was discolored when I replaced it the second time. The mechanic said "That's it! It must be the fuel injector!" New injector installed, $488, still ran rough, still the chug chug chug and click click click. A few days ago, it ran so bad and so weak, it used up all the battery power and could barely stay running. I stopped for gas. I thought " maybe it's the EGR. I should just unplug it." BINGO !! It runs great !!!!! Smooth !!!!!! Better gas mileage. No chugging! No clicking!
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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I got a 1990 Ranger 4x4 2.9l that loves to get hot only when the ac is on. The engine was rebuilt by me about 2000 miles ago and I made sure to have the block boiled in order to clean out any crap that could've been built up in the water jackets. So far the radiator, cap, thermostat, and fan clutch have been replaced. The fan shroud is intact and the condenser has a few bent fins but not many.
Here in Vegas we're looking at 100+ from 10 am - 4 pm so the ac is a must. I could be sitting at a light all day with the ac turned off and the truck doesn't have an issue. When I turn the ac on though the truck almost immediately begins to get hot. The engine drops maybe 100 rpms and the voltage gauge also drops a little. At night if I'm running the ac the voltage drops to what looks like 10 volts.
While the ac is on there is an immediate loss of power as well. In my head I'm thinking a failing compressor, water pump, and alternator are at fault. It doesn't matter if the truck is moving either, the temp still climbs.I know the rangers are funky with their cooling so when I burped the system i turned the heater on and lifted the front end about 1 ft off the ground with the cap off.
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My wife has a Mitsubishi 91 Eclipse with an with a 1.8 liter engine and automatic that periodically bucks and surges, especially noticeable under load like going uphill but can occur during straight line highway driving. After doing a complete tuneup, changing the throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, having both the ecu and tcu rebuilt, check all vacuum lines, replaced ignition wires, replaced fuel pressure regulator and checking fuel pressure, replaced injectors,checking all electrical sensors and connections, etc. etc. I, nor professional mechanics, cannot determine what may be causing this condition. At this point I'm thinking either the fuel tank needs removal and cleaning or its the fuel pump, coil, ignition switch, or torque converter. Here's a clue... I'm finding an oily substance on the pavement that appears to be coming from the transmission area. It doesn't appear to be ATF nor oil. I'm suspecting the torque converter is leaking.
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1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
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I have a 90' Ford Ranger, rear wheel drive.
I can not find a 2 wheel drive automatic transmission and I was wondering if I can convert a 4 wheel drive transmission?
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Just picked up a 90 Ranger last night, 4.0 EC, good ole A4LD, from a recipt I found has 70K or so on rebuild, was driving it today and the TC unlocked, and now it won't lock back up. I checked fluid and it was a little low, topped it off and drove it, and it was the same thing. I'm kinda new to thease A4LDs I know they can have issues, but can be good too. Just want to know whats going on so I can fix it! No codes were found when I scanned it. Trans otherwise shifts fine, you can feel it go into OD but no lockup.
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I have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
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Mine has a strange issue. 1990 xlt 2.9L manual 4x4. When first start of the day, after start I push accelerator and it has a hesitation like not getting fuel. Where start?
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I've got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0 auto trans front transmission seal went bad, I've got everything unbolted abs ready to come put but the trans won't come over top of the front cross member, what could be the problem on why it won't come out?
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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