Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1989 2.3L - Started Missing Even Replaced Fuel Filter?
Aug 26, 2014
The other day I was driving down the road on a long, flat section and all of a sudden my truck started missing out of the blue. Ever since it started missing it hasn't stopped. The truck is an '89 Ranger, 2.3l, 5 spd. The plugs and wires were replaced last year along with the timing belt and fuel pump. It has been running great since then until now. I thought maybe it might be a clogged fuel filter so I replaced that but it didn't work. Also, it doesn't miss all the time. It doesn't miss when its idling or if you are going down the road while it is missing and slowly release the gas pedal it reaches a point while you are letting the pedal up where it will even out. It definitely seems like it is an "under load missing" scenario. Also, the Check Engine Light is not on. Where should I start looking?
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I have a 98 Ranger with a 3.0 (5 speed) that has 254,000 miles on it. I drove it to town this morning (8 miles) and it ran normally. I stopped for just a few minutes at a house and when I re-started the truck, it was missing very bad and the CEL came on. It wouldn't haul itself in anything higher than 3rd gear. I decided to try to make it back home. I drove it less than two miles and it cleared up and started running perfect again. I came home anyway and read the code with my scan tool.
It said that I had a miss fire on cylinder #5. I erased the codes and shut the CEL out and its been running perfectly ever since. (I have put about 150 miles on it so far) If it does it again, I will start by replacing the plug wires. I have already done that but its been a long time ago. The plugs have been replaced twice as well. I was wondering if it could be something other than electrical like a dirty injector or maybe the compression rings lined up and it momentarily lost compression.
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I know where the filter is, i know how to bleed off the pressure. Im wondering if those clips are easy to slide off to remove the filter from the lines?
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Where is is my fuel filter and what are the steps to changing it. I have a 2002 Ford Ranger. Also how do you change the flashers, the left blink is really fast but the right blink is fine.
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2003 Ranger (4.0 L-2wd)...
Codes - random misfire and cylinder banks 1, 2, 3, reads out lean fuel
Will be checking out injectors and rail pressure, however, trouble shooting in general for this issue.
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Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
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I have been thru everything i can think of except the main ECU on the ranger.
I've replaced the starter as well as the starter solenoid also the ignition switch.
What is happening is there is no power after the main wire to the solenoid from the battery. it doesn't power up anything. I've checked the fusible link and it appears intact. with a test light i can see that i have no power from the ignition itself i guess to tell the solenoid to work. i have noticed that the ignition cylinder is a little loose but what can cause there to be no power at all?
Could it be a bad solenoid?
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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Ok, I've replaced the fuel filter today and my truck still won't start. Checked fuses, and Fuel relay (19th slot). I've found the red fuel switch and it doesn't depress so I suspect it isn't tripped. I'm out of my league if I have a fuel pump problem.
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I have a 89 Ranger, 2.3, 2wd, Mazda 5 spd. Last year, 10,000 miles ago, I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl, and pilot bearing. Today, it started making a terrible grinding sound/vibration when you let off the gas. The noise is coming from the clutch/transmission area. It is so bad that any amount of "engine braking" sounds terrible and I have to press the clutch in and the noise immediately stops. What to check for?
The only thing I can think of off the cuff is
1) bad pilot bearing,
2) low/no tranny oil. I replaced the oil and put silicone on the known leaky spots while I had the tranny out,
3) Input shaft had some "wobble" in it when I had the tranny out to replace clutch 10,000 miles ago.
This could be it but why would it start 10k miles later?
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I have an 89 Ranger 2.3l with 255,000 miles on original engine. The engine runs like brand new. I'm just curious as to why it's extremely sluggish when cold. Example, it was 3 degrees this morning and I literally couldn't get over 45 mph for 5-10 mins. Everyone was passing me. No knocks or other strange noises just doesn't have any power. Once warmed up its completely normal. Obviously my '01 4.0 Ranger doesn't do this so I was mainly interested in why? Do they use different metal materials, is engine wore out (obviously it is to an extent), or something else?
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89 4 wheel drive 2.9 5 speed can it be cleaned or cleared.
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I recently acquired a 1989 Ford Ranger midsize pickup with an electronic shift button/console between the visors. I put it in 4WD and the manual does not indicate the procedure to take it out of 4WD. What is the procedure?
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My 89 2.9 has gotten water in the oil. One year ago I pulled this engine to replace the crank shaft (defective Ford design 1/2 thust bearing created a nasty grove in the crank allowing it to slide back and forth1/4 inch), new bearings, oil pump, timming chain, all seals and gaskets (not head gasket). The engine had great compression so I didn't do any thing more. Now I have a leak. No oil in water. NO compression leaking off into the water jacket. No "steam" coming from the exhaust. I've replace the intake manifold gasket. It showed signs of water leaking through the gasket, actually bubbles of water trapped inside, so I hoped this was it, but I still have water in the oil. I have now removed the intake and driver side head (head gasket shows now sign of leaking). No signs of water in cylinders. Is it possible to have a warped intake manifold? I have removed it twice, and I was told that some V6's need to be slowly removed VIA de-torque the bolts. I didn't do it the first two times I removed it, today I did. I plan to remove the passenger side head tomorrow. I will take the intake down and have it tested for warping. I have read many stories on this web site of the heads getting cracks, but they all seem to be in or near the valves, I assume that allows water to be burned off as a steam engine OR compression being pumped back into the water jacket.
Is there any other source of the leak that I'm missing? Is it possibly my intake? OR should I go ahead and replace the heads?
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Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform. Am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
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I got this 89 ranger xlt with a 2.9 and automatic transmission. I mainly bought it because it was in such good shape and I was planning on putting a 5.0 in it. everything works on it. the a/c, radio, lights and it runs real nice. the only problem it has is it shifts pretty hard going into second gear. every once in a while it will shift smoothly into second but only like once or twice a day. he said he had recently changed the trans filter and fluid and the fluid does not smell burnt.
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I've recently acquired a 1989 ford ranger xlt 2.9L V6 and iv got my elbows deep already..... starts right up and scene its an older truck i let it warm up for a few minutes seems to sound alright so i jump in and take off... well i make it about two blocks and as soon as the truck seems to warm up it starts to sputter and die out... starts back up and idles for a min and i try to take off, but it seems to have NO power and jerks and dies.... so i push to a street parking spot and get situalated start the truck up again and take off only to make it about half a block tell it does the same....
First i think iv run outta gas witch i might of not sure so I walk to station and get three gallons. put in truck and same is happening. so i start kicking myself for not haven any tools with me and i leave tell next day... that night do a little research and get some idea's of what could be the problem'(s) so i start out with things that look like they need tending Badly WIRES, PLUGS, ROTOR, CAP, MAP SENSOR, and now after a whole day in the rain (Northwest BTW) and grease to elbows? 2.9 V6? What step's should i take next?
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89 2.3l 4x4 will crank just fine but no start. It is getting plenty of fuel. Replaced ignition module,crank sensor,computer, checked all fuses. I've been looking for a broken wire with no luck. Doesn't seem to be getting any power to the coil packs. Truck was not driven very often until a month ago. Started up fine everyday until the no start.
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Found a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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I'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
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