Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Missing / Stumbling Especially At About 55 MPH While In Overdrive
Feb 20, 2013
I've got a 1988 2wd Ranger with a 2.9l v6. I just recently got it running. It has been setting for awhile. I replaced fuel tank, both pumps, fuel filter, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, TPS. It ran great for about 100 miles. Then yesterday on my way to work about 4 miles down the road it started to miss/stumble especially at about 55mph while in overdrive. When I got home I pulled the codes and I got KOEO 22 Map sensor signal out of voltage(engine off), 53 TPS signal voltage to high, 95 Thermactor Air System Problem, or Fuel Pump Monitor signal, indicates circuit problem.
KOER I got 21 ECT sensor signal voltage out of range or loss of signal during normal operation or Crank Sensor problem, doesn't have a crank sensor I believe. But I did change the ECT sensor and it still stumbles and seems like it misses. Noticed it is sluggish getting up to speed kinda surges and bogs. Im at a loss it isn't showing any more codes. Checked all plug wire connections and made sure everything was making connection. The only other thing I can think of is that the ignition module on back of distributor is going bad. Not advancing the time correctly.
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I have a 1988 FORD Ranger with the 2.9 liter engine with the four speed automatic overdrive transmission. Several days ago the transmission went out. The truck will not pull in reverse, overdrive, drive, second or first. Usually most vehicles will usually have at least the reverse, A first or second when the drive and overdrive stops working altogether. What the problem could be?
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I've been through this same scenario quite a few times before but I cannot narrow it down to the exact problem. I've got this 1998 Ranger that's maintained well, tune-ups, oil changes, and everything else maintenance wise. The past few months randomly driving anywhere from 200-300 miles every once and awhile it would hesitate taking off from a stop or accelerating after letting off the gas. It would throw up a P0171 code so I thought the fuel pump was bad. So I replaced with a new fuel pump assembly. That worked, fuel pressure is now within specs. 65-69psi. Still every 200-300 miles it would throw up a P0171 code, then a few weeks ago it kept coming up more frequently.
I found out it was a broken vacuum hose from the purge valve to the intake manifold tube so I replaced it. Now it doesn't come on anymore. But before I noticed that hose I assumed the mass air flow sensor was bad so I cleaned it with CRC Mass Air Flow cleaner. Since that time it's gotten worse and now stumbles and hesitates every time you stop and takeoff. Sometimes it even chokes the motor out with the a/c on and you come to a stop. I knew the ignition coil also causes the same issues so I checked them. The front coil pack had a burned electrode leading to number 4 cylinder intake side. I replaced the coil cleaned that end of the wire and it still is stumbling and hesitating. I tried the trick of unplugging the mass air flow sensor and driving to see if it was better. No change at all.
After I replaced the coil a few minutes ago I test drove it and stopped and then turned a corner and gave it full throttle with a/c on and it actually shut off. But still there is no check engine light and no codes present. What's going on? I looked at the back coil and didn't see any corroded terminals. It started happening all the time upon takeoff right after I cleaned the mass air flow. But when I unplugged the sensor and drove it around nothing changed at all. Is there something else to check? I had the timing belt changed last week and had the shop check to see if timing is good and they said it was right on. It still drive good you just have to tap the gas twice when you take off to overcome the stumbling.
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My truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
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So i have a 2000 ford ranger 2wd 4cyl .190k miles. My issue is the motor has a very rough/shaking idle,abs light on,and check engine light on.it also continues to blow fuses to the tail lights and dash, haha
Ive had it since it was at 40k and has been a great truck,although lately i have really neglected it.ive changed the spark plugs and new wires new timing chain. I would d love to start trouble shooting some of this stuff this weekend if the weather holds up.
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I went to transmission shop today and tech told me c solenoid was showing performance problem when scanned. He took it for drive and said it was commanding shift into fifth gear. It is a 3.0 extended cab 2wd with just over 200000 on truck, transmission was rebuilt just over 25000 miles ago. Fluid is so clean its still clear looking just faint red color. All other gears shift and pull great all electrical clean and hooked up, he crawled under it and said pan adjustments were tight, whatever that means.
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I have a 1988 ford ranger and my headlights won't turn on all my fuses are fine but no headlights! All the other lights work fine blinkers, parking, brake ,and tail lights! What do I need to look for????
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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Any way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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It's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
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I have an 88 ranger with the 2.9l. The headlights work and the markers do to. The brights don't though. and also none of the turn signals work, the brake lights work though but i don't think the reverse do, I can't see them. Do the turn signals and brights share a fuse on there own? How to diagnose it or what it may be?
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My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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Bought my third 88 ranger today, drove it 55 of 60 miles home and it died. It lost power and acted like the coil was going bad. This one is a 2.9 5 speed 4x4. The a/c compressor is gone; but the 365 a/c works okay, or did.
My daughter was following me in her car; by the time we got back with my F150 and a chain, it started and ran until it was a half maile from home then lost power and died again.
Drug it home, put a new coil on and it started and revved up fine. Went to move it a couple of hours later and it will crank with the starter, but not fire.
I am getting 12 volts to the primary side of the coil, is there any way to check the TFI module without taking it off the distributor? (they are so accessable).
Or is there something else that I need to check? I really don't want to just throw money at it, I like to know for sure what is wrong before I buy parts.
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My 1988 XLT 4x4 2.9L truck can't make up it's mind. Oil light comes on when ever it wants. I replaced it with a new one to make sure it wasn't bad. My lifters start clanking then they'll stop making noise when ever . Oil light goes out.Runs great. I let it Idle and once warm oil light pops on again. Rev it up light goes out then comes back on at higher rpm. Let Idle lifters clank again...and so on. seems erratic. Weak oil pump???? slop plugging pick up screen??? I'm running 20w50 oil is has 188,000. It ran today for 1/2 hour no oil light no noise then Here we go again..clanking valves ,oil light on...
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I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
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I have a 1988 Ranger with the 2.9. 2wd, xlt. It seems that my wipers have no power. I put a test light in the fuse panel where the 6A cb is and no light. To verify I wasn't doing something wrong, I put it in the dome light and tester came on. I tried with the wiper switch on interval, low & hi. I can't seem to find where the power comes from to follow back from the fuse panel. The washer fluid doesn't work either. No clicking from relays or anything.
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I have a 1988 Ranger 2.9 V6 that sits most of the time. The fuel pump quit working so I removed the bed and replaced the pump in the tank and the inline filter near the engine. I did not replace the inline high pressure pump because it still made a humming sound so I assumed it is working. Now when I turn the switch on I hear both pumps working but the truck will not start. It seems like it wants to fire or fires for just a second but just wont completely start. Is the system supposed to be primed and if so how?. I suspect a fuel problem but I dont know how to check pressure or check to see if fuel is getting to the engine. What to do next?
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I have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
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