Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 Truck Won't Start / Ignition Firing While Key On Engine Off
Feb 26, 2015
I've got an 87 ford ranger 4x4. The truck won't start. The ignition is firing off with the key on engine off. When I got the truck the transfer case was blown. The people I got the truck from drove it to here it sat. I check the wiring but the transfer case to make sure it diet get damaged causing a sort. When I got the pcm was missing. Took one out of a bronco 2 and changed the relays on the fender. Here what I've done so far
Relays
Pcm
Complete tune up.
Distributor and ignition module
Replaced and repair some grounds.
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i have a 1986 ford ranger with a bored out 2.9 v6 that is not getting spark sent to the spark plugs disrtibutor has been changed along with spark plug wires any clue what the problem is
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start, the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad.... 1993 ford ranger .....
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
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I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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I have a 2000 3.0 manual tranny, the motor went in the truck months ago. I put a new motor in it but that took me many months to do. Now I just finished up putting it all back together and now it wont turn over, when the ignition is on the theft light flashes fast. could there be a reset procedure at all? i had the battery disconnected for months.
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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'88 Ranger 2.9L V6 starts and runs but shuddering. Most noticeable when shifting and revving the engine. Will a dead cylinder cause this? How do I check?
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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Which transmission came with the 1987 Ranger 2.9L?
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I have a 96 ranger 4.0L shift lever was very sloppy and one of the torq bolt fell on the floor I used loc tite and tightened them up with no problem put everything back together and now it wont start. I think I checked everything even replaced the neutral safety switch, adjusted the tranny cable, checked fuses and switched around the relays maybe an ignition switch? I am running out of stuff to troubleshoot.
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My 03 Ranger 4.0L has become a mystery that has baffled every one I know. Everything was fine and I ran home to something from my house was in there maybe 10 minutes came out and the truck wouldn't start. it doesn't even crank over. out of the clear blue. I had a friend who works for a garage check it and he thinks timing chain. Since then I have been told it wouldn't just fall off sitting there with no indication at all there was a problem.
Thought maybe PATS system. Its in order. Put in on a computer from auto-zone and it shows a check engine light but the reading is there is no codes in the computer on file. I am at a loss. Its been months and I really cant afford to take it to a garage right now. Its the strangest thing ever no crank, no stalling just nothing I hit the switch it lights up like its ready to start and nada.
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Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
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My 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
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