Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Transmission Leak / Fluid Puking Out Inspection Plate Area
Mar 17, 2014
Dad gave me an 87 Ford ranger a couple weeks ago. I love it. Everything works except I'm having transmission leak issues when I drive her more than 30 miles or so.the symptom is fluid puking out inspection plate area. I checked coolant lines today and unfortunately they are working great. I've had a couple suggestions recommending replacement of the front seal our front pump seal (is there a difference?)
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Question about my dads 2000 explorer with the 4.0, he just noticed it was leaking oil heavily. Added 2quarts and drove it home. I looked under it and the oil is dripping very steadily from what appears to be the inspection plate area where engine meets trans. Have y'all ever seen a rear main seal fall out or cause a leak this heavy? I know we will have to clean it and re check but this is all I have seen at this point. Is there any other seal or issue that could cause this from inside the bell housing area or nearby?
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Just pulled into campground pulling 5ver transmission started pouring fluid from inspection plate. Only does when running but it's a gusher. Fluid is nice and red and didn't smell burnt. What should I expect when I have towed to shop?
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I bought a 1990 ranger with only 38000 miles on it from a online auction from boing aircraft. it never left the flight line and never even had a title. I picked it up from the airport and found out that it didn't have AC like they said, I was a little ticked but that isn't the main problem. When I drive it and it gets warmed up it leaks Tranny fluid from the front of the transmission. The engine does not overheat. It is a 4 cyl AOD automatic with a real thin radiator and a transmission cooler. Without AC the truck isn't the good deal I thought I was getting, and with a bad tranny this is becoming a big OOPS. Why this is happening?
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Which transmission came with the 1987 Ranger 2.9L?
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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My 1987 Nissan Sentra has a transmission leak. The leak is from a bad gasket from the center part of the Trans. How to replace or fix this gasket without taking out the Trans. ( Just so we are clear-this is not the Trans pan)
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I have a 4R100 diesel trans. with a missing chunk by the inspection area. Is it still safe to run?. The aluminum there is quite thin....
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3 for 3 this year. When I'm towing, arrive at our campsite and back our trailer into the spot. I get white smoke pretty quickly and there is transmission fluid all over the ground.
4R100 transmission with 71k miles on it. I had the fluid changed this year HOWEVER it did do the same thing last year on a camping trip when I was towing.
I don't have any other issues other than this. I assume the fluid is getting ridiculously hot and then boiling over? The gauge doesn't change at all in the cab (but I assume it is either a GOOD/BAD sensor vs. an actual temp sensor).
I've tried using 2WD, 4HI and 4LO all with the same results. What needs to be done to prevent this? Larger transmission cooler? Is there anything that is 'plug and play'?
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2002 Ranger XLT, Super Cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC V-6, 5-speed manual transmission. Noticed burnt oil smell. Checking under truck revealed oil drips on garage floor from rear area of engine. Traced to rear corner of left valve cover, but can't see enough of the rear of the engine top-end to say for sure where it may be coming from.
Before I put the truck in the shop for repair, where the oil may potentially be coming from on this particular engine? (I checked; the valve cover fasteners are secure) Any "chronic" oil leak problems with this model engine, or anything?
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I have a 1993 ranger 3.0L/6cyl/automatic/ a4ld. I replaced the transmission and torque converter with one from a salvage yard that has approx. 76k miles. I added tranny fluid and idled the engine for approx. 10 minutes in neutral, but the fluid has not begone to circulate. I pulled off the trans line at the radiator and there is no flow with the engine running in park. Where should I start with the diagnostics for this problem?
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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I have an 87 v6 ranger with 5 speed that has been sitting for several years. The truck only has 48000 miles on it. The gas tank has been cleaned out and both fuel pumps have been replaced. The injectors were pulled and cleaned...
It will start up and run for about 5 minutes and then will shut off. It will not start after that until the next day and then does the same thing. It starts up and runs then shuts off and can't get it to start again. Could it be some kind of circuit breaker tripping or maybe the ecm. If it is the ecm how do you test it...
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I have a friend who drives a 1987 ranger 2.3 4 cyl and is having problems with oil building up in his air cleaner. I thought maybe it was a bad pcv valve or worn out rings. I looked at it and cannot even find a pcv valve on it. it has one hose that runs from the valve cover to the air clean but there' s no valve in it. are the rings shot or what is causing this to happen?
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Still cant seem to fix this 87 ranger 2.9... NEW fuel reg, fuel press reg, rebuilt computer.cold it will start and run fine.then it will shut down with in 5 to 18 miles then you cant hear the front or rear pumps at all!. Let it sit over night and your off again.. Can't get any codes.. Can a pump over heat and shut both off??
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
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My buddy has a '98 B4000 4.0 4x4 Auto, and just recently he lost 4th gear for whatever reason. Which is strange, considering 5th gear still works, and OD requires direct (4th) to work.
So we're thinking its a valvebody problem, and apparently the gasket blowing out of the separator plate is a very common problem. So we decided we're going to drop the valvebody and inspect/replace the gasket.
Now I see that the they now bond the gaskets to the separator plate: What is the part number for this bonded plate?
I've also seen mentions of a TSB, and other mentions of an updated EPC solenoid. Looking for more info on this?
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
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