Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Fuel Transfer From Front To Rear Tank?
Sep 22, 2013
How/why does fuel transfer from front tank to rear tank ? I put 6 gallons in front, drove about 5 miles, parked over night, all fuel now in rear tank which was empty.
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1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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I filled up with gas this week on my 92 Ranger extended cab and when it got to full I noticed it was leaking down the side of the tank in-line with the filler neck. I couldn't make out exactly where it was coming from. It wasn't coming out of the filler neck I know. I noticed I had been smelling a strong gas smell but I thought it was a bad gas cap. I've never dropped a tank on any of my Rangers. I've also got a 93 and 98 regular cab but always had someone do it. I know that on my 98 the big plastic lock ring deteriorated over time and I had to have it replaced because it was leaking when I filled it up. I'm suspecting the same on this 92. I got a print out of the fuel tank and components from Ford trying to prepare myself to have everything I need if I try and drop the tank myself to check. It looks like it has one of those plastic lock rings, a filler neck grommet, and some kind of vapor grommet. It shows some kind of shield over the fuel pump assembly. Will I need anything special to remove that big plastic lock ring, the hoses, or to drop the tank? I know it's got that heat shield around it. It looks intimidating. I don't want to break anything but can't afford to keep paying all the labor to get the small problems fixed on this Ranger. The only fuel tanks I've dropped and changed were on my 65 Valiant and 73 Charger but they required no special fuel line removal tools. Is anything going to be hard removing this fuel tank? I probably will put in a new fuel pump just to, since it's running the original 22-year-old fuel pump.
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My stock OEM fuel tank has a crack in it. I've got to replace it. I was thinking of getting a TransferFlow replacement tank. It would nearly double my capacity. My wife wants me just to go stock to save the money, but I'm thinking the extra capacity would be nice. One thing that did concern me, however, is how much my fuel efficiency might diminish because of the extra weight of the tank (150 lbs) plus fuel. Since it is a gas truck, not many options.
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I have a 1987 ford 350 when i go up a steep hill the truck starts to skip and break down to a point where I have to pull over i just put in new fuel pump in tank, what could be the problem only happens on hills.
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Which transmission came with the 1987 Ranger 2.9L?
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I have an 87 v6 ranger with 5 speed that has been sitting for several years. The truck only has 48000 miles on it. The gas tank has been cleaned out and both fuel pumps have been replaced. The injectors were pulled and cleaned...
It will start up and run for about 5 minutes and then will shut off. It will not start after that until the next day and then does the same thing. It starts up and runs then shuts off and can't get it to start again. Could it be some kind of circuit breaker tripping or maybe the ecm. If it is the ecm how do you test it...
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I have a friend who drives a 1987 ranger 2.3 4 cyl and is having problems with oil building up in his air cleaner. I thought maybe it was a bad pcv valve or worn out rings. I looked at it and cannot even find a pcv valve on it. it has one hose that runs from the valve cover to the air clean but there' s no valve in it. are the rings shot or what is causing this to happen?
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Still cant seem to fix this 87 ranger 2.9... NEW fuel reg, fuel press reg, rebuilt computer.cold it will start and run fine.then it will shut down with in 5 to 18 miles then you cant hear the front or rear pumps at all!. Let it sit over night and your off again.. Can't get any codes.. Can a pump over heat and shut both off??
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
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My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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I was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
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I have a 1987 ford ranger, it has a 2.0L carborated motor and I also have a 1994 ford ranger fuel injected motor I believe it's a 2.3L, I am wondering if the swap will work to put the 94 motor in the 87....
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My dash light fuse blew. I checked with a meter and I have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring for the lights. Everything else seems to be working fine.
Is there a copy of the wiring diagram somewhere?
I have the big ford shop manual but I't doesn't have any diagrams. (might be missing pages, I got it off Ebay and the index is missing T-Z).
I have the Haynes but it doesn't have the diagram for the dash lights.
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I have a 1987 ranger 2.9 V6. Have a intermittent miss @ idle when warmed up. What is the proper way to pull the codes from the computer, i,st something about counting flashes or lights...
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