1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 85 Ranger with a 2.3L engine. I'm not getting any heat. The temperature gauge never moves off of C, except when stuck in stop & go traffic. Even then it doesn't come up much. I tried to fix this last year by putting in a new thermostat, but it didn't work.
View 6 Replies85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
View 9 RepliesI have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
View 3 RepliesMy ranger has always run pretty good except for a small bit of chattering at startup which quickly went away after it warmed up. Now all of a sudden its much louder and doesnt seem to go away while driving. I read about the oil pickup tube getting blocked and not properly delivering oil and so I performed the superhuman task of dropping the oil pan to check. While I couldnt get the oil pan all the way out, I got it to where I could feel the oil pick up screen and everything seems okay. I have the valve cover off. Are the lifters adjustable? Whats the issue?
View 10 RepliesI was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
View 9 RepliesI am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
View 14 RepliesSo 85 ranger with 2.3l and A4ld. I can manually shift to get first and 2nd. When i look at the vaccume diagram it shows these 2 blocks on the tranny,one box is connected to the next with a vac line. The other box has 2 lines, one goes to the main vaccume block on the intake and the other T's into a small capped off canister and the egr. I can only find one place for a vac line and its on the pasgr side of the tranny... Where is the block that the egr line connects too located? Its not on the tranny as far as i can tell.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn on my heater full blast the most god awful squealing commences. Where to start spraying the grease?
View 10 RepliesSo I noticed when I check the oil, there is a very small amount of water at the end of the dipstick and also water mixing with oil around the oil cap. It is not much water at all, but my first thought was head gasket. I was loosing very small amounts of coolant, but found a small leak at the thermostat housing....The truck runs fine, idles fine, no bubbles coming from the radiator at startup, no moisture from exhaust. It seems to be using more oil than normal, but I drive it 100 miles a day still and no major issues other than the perplexing bit of water and oil mixing. Could it be a tiny head gasket leak? What else would cause the water and oil to come together.
View 13 Replies85 ford ranger 2.3 efi .. My brake lights still aren't coming on. According to the Haynes manual, the wire that runs from the stop light fuse goes from there to the hazard flasher and then to the brake light switch. Since I have checked everything else, is it possible that the hazards are causing a break in the connection?
View 4 RepliesSo I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
View 1 Replies85 2.0L Dura Ranger.
All of the Idle control wiring and box and sensors have been removed; all else is original. The truck ran just fine after the removal of the above paraphernalia (years). The truck simply quit, no spark at the coil, cranks just fine. All of the wiring has been checked for continuity. The Following components have been replaced with new:
Ignition switch.
Coil.
Dura-spark Box.
Dist coil.
Starter solenoid.
Rotor & Cap.
Plugs and wires.
Correct voltage is present at the coil & D-spark box side of the connector.
Coil tests close to what I think is correct for resistance and the engine ran with it.
I have tested both sides of every connector. I'm not sure what the output side of the D-Spark box (blue tab) voltages should be, and I am unable to test the trigger signal at the coil, however with no output and power in I'm guessing that is the problem...
1985 2.3L... New fuel pump And fuel pump relay, problem was happening before new parts. the wires at inertia switch continue to get hot switch has been removed. The heat continues to under the hood where there is some so rt of connecting link and heat stops.what the is this link for, it doesn't look like A fusible link?? Saw a similar post here about a fuel pump shutting down and wires getting hot. Same problem.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4, 4-cyl automatic. While pulling into a parking space, the driver in the vehicle next to me threw her door open. I braked quickly (but did not slam on the brakes) to avoid hitting the door then continued into the space after she closed her door. I then tried to put my car in reverse to re-position it in the parking slot. The shifter on the console would not go into REVERSE and obviously not into PARK since PARK on the shifter is above REVERSE. The shifter will go into both DRIVE and NEUTRAL. I now have a car that will go only forward. Also, I cannot remove the key from the ignition switch since the shifter will not go into PARK. I've not had a problem like this with this or any car before.
I also noticed that my ABS/ESC has been coming on more frequently and staying on and I attributed that to a bad sensor since my brakes are in good shape and I have not had to rely on the ABS system. I don't believe that the ABS/ESC warning light and the shifter problem are connected but I'm not totally sure. Why my shifter won't go into REVERSE or PARK????
My 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
View 1 RepliesOn my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
View 7 RepliesI have an 89 Ranger, 5 speed, 2wd, M50D transmission. On the way home tonight I was upshifting from a stop and when I went to go from 4th to 5th the shifter wouldn't budge. Luckily I was on a back road so I pulled off the road and tried all sorts of things (rolling truck while stopped, etc) and the shifter just will not budge.
Now here is the thing. I had my fiancé with me and no tools so I really couldn't do any diagnosing. However, 6 months ago I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing. While I had the transmission out of the truck I changed the fluid, siliconed around the rubber plugs, and put a shift bushing kit in. The bushing kit is the bushings around the shift ball with new wave washers and new pins that insert into the ball.
It is obviously not related to the clutch as it engages/disengages properly. When this happened, there were no noises of any kind when I shifted from 3rd to 4th. It just will not come out of 4th. I am going to pull the shifter out tomorrow and have a look. Do you think one of the new pins that I drove in to hold the shift ball broke or fell out or something and if so would it cause this problem?
I've been having problems with my column shifter ever since I installed a Pioneer shift cable probably about 3 years now. I was told and also thought that the cable would loosen up after awhile but it never has. I had some put it on and I watched him do it. He seemed to have some trouble because it took him a long time under the dash. It shifts so stiff that over a period of about 2 years it finally broke the end of the shift tube one night. Luckily I was able to fix it the next day by getting a spare without missing any down time. It was still just as stiff with the other shift tube. It finally broke the plastic on my shifter tonight, not necessarily whatever is causing it but because it takes so much effort to shift into Park, Reverse or Drive.
I think the plastic may have cracked over time. Luckily I had another one at home along with another shift tube. I didn't replace the shift tube this time but I did remove the caps and smear some grease on the bushings to see if it would make it turn. I looked further down at the end cap that broke last time and sure enough one of the bolts was backed almost all the way out. I retightened it tonight too. That's what happened when the bottom broke last time. One of those bolts backed out and it cracked the housing. It works now but if you go all the way to 1st to get back to anywhere it really takes a tremendous amount of effort to get it to shift. Something is not right and I cannot pinpoint it. I know they offer brand new shift tubes but I'm not sure if that's the problem.
After taking apart my instrument panel to change the bulbs, I went to reconnect everything, but now the gear shift indicator isn't working. I can change gears fine, and everything else on the instrument panel works just fine.
The copper cable that connects to the shifter doesn't move when the shifter does. Is there a way to fix this problem, or do I need to find a replacement cable?
I've a 1993 2.3 and 1992 4.0 both with a/c systems down. On the 1993 Ranger I tried to loosen the evaporator tube nut to install the new accumulator now it looks like there's going to have to be a new evaporator. Without hardly any pressure that tube just twisted like it was nothing. Someone told me I have to spray it with wd-40 3 days prior to loosening it. I doubt that would even work. Hopefully removing the evaporator case cover under the hood won't be too time consuming because now I've got to. So I don't want to make the same mistake on my 1992 4.0. I need to change the accumulator, orifice tube, flush the evaporator, condenser, install the new hoses, and compressor before evacuating and recharging. Is there anything that makes it a breeze to loosening those evaporator and liquid line nuts without destroying the evaporator?
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