I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
View 14 Replies94 Ford Ranger 2.3L
I started to have a slightly rough idle a while back, but not severe. I figured she was just aging a bit.
Changed plugs. Check engine light came on. Changed plug wires. Then I had a couple of episodes where it started to lose power and idle really rough (stalling). Both times it stopped after a few minutes. Had code read- they said it was coils. Replaced ignition coils. Check engine light still on, but it went a few weeks without power loss.
Tonight the loss of power returned and didn't leave, and I had a glowing red catalytic converter after I limped home 20 miles (hope I didn't do any serious damage, I was stranded.)
Found this post : [URL] .... But there's no resolution.
So, I'm probably dealing with a misfire, and I'm sure I torched my cat after tonight. So any other easy diagnose/fixes for a misfire? I'm a shade tree mechanic- so I know just enough to get myself in trouble. If I can't get a resolution soon it will be off to the mechanic (which, maybe I should have done 1st...)
Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
View 2 RepliesAlthough my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
My ranger just started running very rough. Like misfiring, but I think it may be the fuel pump. It starts and drives...but it surges then drives normal, as if fuel is being fed, then starved, then force fed etc. My father asked if I had trouble starting it and to be honest in the last 6 months it was a little harder to start on several occasions. On a few occasions it required more cranking. But that was only a few times.
I tried putting in a fuel injector cleaner and 93 octane gas but it is still running even rougher now. I changed out the fuel filter under the rail about a year ago (maybe 8000 miles ago at most). My father thinks the fuel pump is shot and he laughed because his went on his expedition and he said it is inside the fuel tank and there is no way to get at it without dropping the tank. Is that true? 2002 ranger xl 4cyl
I live in Kansas and was home in Georgia for the last 2 weeks. The truck drove great there after a fuel up started missing and surging at 50 to 70 thought it might have been bad fuel. waited till it was low added Lucas fuel treatment and premium gas still was doing it. no check engine light. went to Advance and fuse for light was blown they checked and was getting mass air flow code. unplugged it and seemed to be better, not perfect but better. plugged it back in and went to do it again. Changed mass air flow night before the drive back to Kansas. Ran well from Savannah to north Georgia then started doing it again the rest of the way home. Going to have advance check code again.
View 12 Replies1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Ltr - Runs rough ever now and then and CEL giving P1151 code. Upper and lower intake gaskets have been replaced.
View 14 Replies2003 Ranger FX4 Flareside
4.0
Automatic
145,000 Miles
Here's my issue: My Ranger has been running like a dream until yesterday.
I took off on a parts run for my sons Ranger. I got to a stop sign and as I stopped, it started missing and barely running. I nursed it back home and checked the flashing CEL. It was giving me a misfire on #3.
Since I had been planning on changing the plugs and wires, I dove in and got it done hoping that was the cause of the misfire.
Started it up, same thing. I went to the next obvious item: coil. Replace it, still running like crap. Gave up for the night.
Today, I thought I would dig in using the tips here on the forum. Did the spray down...no errant spark anywhere. Tested fuel pressure: 65psi no drop in pressure on acceleration.
Started pulling wires off the coil one by one. Four of the wires resulted in running worse. 2 had no effect. #3 and #6. The coil was producing plenty of spark on all 6 ports.
At this point I was sure it had to be 2 bad injectors. Since I couldn't get injectors tonight, I moved them around after cleaning them a bit and tried my wire test again. The problem stayed on the back 2 cylinders!?!
I tested for voltage on the back injector plugs and I am getting voltage. I also used a stethoscope to listen to all of the injectors. The back 2 seem to remain silent. I have also unhooked the battery for 20 minutes to reset the PCM. Still missing and running rough....
Here's a list of what I have done:
Autolite Double Platinum APP5144 plugs. .062 gap
Autolite Pro Series wires #97051
BDW E97P Coil
New air filter
What should I do next? I really don't know where to go next.......
]I recently bought a 1990 ford ranger with a 2.9 @187,000 miles. That being said I went through and changed a few vacuum lines, the oil, air filter, pcv/grommet, and fuel filter.
The problem is it hates to start. I could crank on it for 10 seconds and not a single thing. Sometimes if i turn the key to the off position, wait a second, and try again, Ill get the truck to fire. When it does fire up it just reeks of the lean exhaust. It also gives me some hesitation when I rev it. I did a fuel pressure test (KOEO) last night and it gave me 32 psi and within a minute the needle fell to about 25 psi. I hear the fuel pump run for only 2-3 seconds too.
I've already pulled the MAF off and cleaned it, replaced the TPS, and did a fuel pressure test. The fuel filter is brand new
I have a recently purchased 2000 ford ranger 4X4 with approx. 130,000 miles on a 3.0L. When I bought the truck, it was running rough while in gear at idle, after first putting it in gear, and when coming to stops, then it quit running all together. I started by replacing plugs, wires, and ignition module. I finally got it to fire up after that, but instantly noticed the tell tale white smoke from the exhaust. Needless to say, my oil looked like chocolate milk. Rather than having the heads machined and checked, I opted to purchase a new set of cylinder heads from Dover cylinder head.
I got those on this week and she fired right up. After a few oil changes to eliminate the residual coolant from the oil passages, she still starts and runs fine, although the idle is a bit rough while in park. When I place it in gear the idle gets a little rougher. After a quick trip down the road, I'm noticing a pretty solid shudder when coming to a stop, almost like it's stuck in 2nd gear, but I can't really tell for sure. Seems to shift fine going up through the gears, but coming down is when the issue is.
I believe I'm dealing with two separate issues, one being the rough idle upon startup that doesn't seem to go away, and two being the rougher idle upon stopping. I've read everything from EGR valve, idle air control valve, low fuel pressure, and a laundry list of other things, and I just don't want to start throwing money away chasing my tail.
'86 Ranger, 2.3L, Automatic transmission.
Been having a sputtering/rough running situation once warmed up, replaced every so often with open loop smooth running. Lately, have had several occasions where the truck stalls and will not restart after a hard right turn (fuel pump powers up, tho) After 30 or so minutes of repose, truck will restart and run.
Recent History:
During the last 1-1/2 years, had cylinder head rebuilt and reinstalled. Had to run it all winter w/o EGR tube attached because of bad fitting at exhaust manifold. Replaced the fitting last spring and replaced cat back exhaust system. Had manifold hole plugged with pipe plug all winter. Have had a diagnosis of poor compression in the past, have not rechecked compression since head rebuild, but did have a noticable increase in power.
Have checked base ignition timing and it is correct. Valve timing appears to be as it should be. Have not had the opportunity to check for spark during one of the breakdowns, since I had no tools and it was night time.
The codes:
Early in Fall, got 14, 21, 24, 34. The 14 particularly interested me, as it suggests ignition problems.
Just before pulling the distributor, I checked codes again; 14 had disappeared as did 34 (EGR issues I resolved above) but I still got 21 (coolant temp out of range) and 41 (no HEGO switch) So I left the distributor alone and replace the HEGO sensor and cleared codes.
Last code check, just got 21(coolant temp sensor voltage out of range) and 24(air charge or Vane air temp voltage out of range) There is very little heat on cold days, full radiator and I've "burped" the cylinder head on an incline more than once chasing trapped air.
I'm suspicious of the TIF module, since the stalling is after warm up and self corrects. It was replaced once perhaps 12 years ago.
I just bought this truck last week. It has 55k on it, so I'm guessing it sat a lot. It seems to run great, but today on my drive to work it started having an intermittent bogging down when accelerating. It didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating soft or harder, or what rpm I'm at. It also did it when it was cold pulling off of my street and it did it once or twice after 15-20 minutes of driving. It just feels like I let off the gas for a moment, I can watch the tach drop about 500 rpm and then just as quick it picks right back up and is fine for a bit. I don't have any check engine light.
View 5 RepliesRecently bought a 96 4 cylinder 5speed 2wd ranger. 200xxx miles on it and its former owner had a young guy change spark plugs . Truck ran fine before, but after is when the rough running showed up.
A quick check of the plug wires and there locations looked correct and also tested the wires for spark with a timing light attached to them, checked shows all are firing.
Seems to smooth out a bit when rpm's are raised up, but still acts like not running smooth.
I swapped out plugs. Looks like they haven't been changed in a long time .Some of the straps are burnt and are shorter than they should be, but still runs rough, very little improvement .
Check vacuum lines for leaks/breaks and all looked good. removed line off brake booster and plugged, didn't matter.
It doesn't throw and check engine lights. It does smooth out some as the rpm's rise, but still not smooth .
I have a 87 ford ranger pickup, it is running extremely ruff. You can smell the exhaust and it smells super rich and is even spitting fuel out of he exhaust. when I bought the truck the wires were cut on he oxygen sensor, so I put a new oxygen sensor in it hoping that it would lean out the fuel. The truck has duel tanks on it, but the back one is off and it is draining fuel out of the line when it is running. I don't know if the catalytic converters are plugged too, the truck only has 65,000 miles in it. or maybe its a vacuum line leak?
View 4 RepliesMy problem: Intermittent skipping / bogging / lack of power etc. It started about 2 months ago and is progressively getting worse. At first it was every couple of weeks, then once a week, now daily. It happens at variable times, temperatures (engine), and rpm's. When this happens I can pull over, shut the engine off, wait 1 minute and restart and it drives fine until next time. Now it will run fine for 1 to 2 minutes then stall. Sometimes runs rough first other times dies flat out. Starts right back up though?
What I've done so far: New plugs and wires. Tested both coil packs (primary resistance at input socket is .7 ohms on both coils and secondary resistance on top is 12.02 to 12.07 on both coils ).Since code 224 is primary circuit failure coil # 1 2 3 or 4 I replaced primary coil anyway. No luck. Removed ICM had it tested(at auto zone) 10 times in a row, it passed each time.
Checked the fuel system at the rail idles at 32 psi with vac.on at regulator and 40psi with vac. off at regulator. All within specs.
Checked compression. 170 psi lowest reading and 180 psi highest reading.All within specs.
Took some timing notes. Idles at 22*btdc after a minute or 2 it drops to 15*btdc for ~5 seconds then back to 22*btdc then dies flat out. Or it will go from 22*btdc to 28*btdc run rough for ~10 seconds then stall.
I disconnected the spout connector but it still idles at 22*btdc. I thought this would force the engine to run at base timing (10*btdc) but no go.
I'm thinking maybe the cam position sensor but I can't find it to replace it. It is not by the oil filter where it should be.
Found this info on rockledge site ("On other setups, such as the 2.3L Ranger, the PIP and CID signals are both generated from the crankshaft by virtue of a "dual vane actuator" which is essentially a doubled-up Hall-Effect sensor.")
Does this mean I don't have a cam position sensor? It's all rolled into one at the ckp? How to confirm that I have DIS or EDIS ignition ?
I have a 85 Ranger with a 2.3L engine. I'm not getting any heat. The temperature gauge never moves off of C, except when stuck in stop & go traffic. Even then it doesn't come up much. I tried to fix this last year by putting in a new thermostat, but it didn't work.
View 6 Replies2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
View 4 Replies2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
View 13 Replies85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
View 9 RepliesI have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
View 3 Replies