So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
View 1 Replies85 ford ranger 2.3 efi .. My brake lights still aren't coming on. According to the Haynes manual, the wire that runs from the stop light fuse goes from there to the hazard flasher and then to the brake light switch. Since I have checked everything else, is it possible that the hazards are causing a break in the connection?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
Since last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
View 14 RepliesI've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
View 2 RepliesMy brake lights will not work but all other lights do, bulbs and fuse have been replaced.
View 2 RepliesI have a 85 Ranger with a 2.3L engine. I'm not getting any heat. The temperature gauge never moves off of C, except when stuck in stop & go traffic. Even then it doesn't come up much. I tried to fix this last year by putting in a new thermostat, but it didn't work.
View 6 Replies97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
View 4 Replies85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
View 9 RepliesI have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
View 3 Replies1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
View 2 RepliesMy ranger has always run pretty good except for a small bit of chattering at startup which quickly went away after it warmed up. Now all of a sudden its much louder and doesnt seem to go away while driving. I read about the oil pickup tube getting blocked and not properly delivering oil and so I performed the superhuman task of dropping the oil pan to check. While I couldnt get the oil pan all the way out, I got it to where I could feel the oil pick up screen and everything seems okay. I have the valve cover off. Are the lifters adjustable? Whats the issue?
View 10 RepliesI was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
View 9 RepliesI am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
View 14 RepliesSo 85 ranger with 2.3l and A4ld. I can manually shift to get first and 2nd. When i look at the vaccume diagram it shows these 2 blocks on the tranny,one box is connected to the next with a vac line. The other box has 2 lines, one goes to the main vaccume block on the intake and the other T's into a small capped off canister and the egr. I can only find one place for a vac line and its on the pasgr side of the tranny... Where is the block that the egr line connects too located? Its not on the tranny as far as i can tell.
View 2 RepliesHaving a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
When I turn on my heater full blast the most god awful squealing commences. Where to start spraying the grease?
View 10 RepliesSo I noticed when I check the oil, there is a very small amount of water at the end of the dipstick and also water mixing with oil around the oil cap. It is not much water at all, but my first thought was head gasket. I was loosing very small amounts of coolant, but found a small leak at the thermostat housing....The truck runs fine, idles fine, no bubbles coming from the radiator at startup, no moisture from exhaust. It seems to be using more oil than normal, but I drive it 100 miles a day still and no major issues other than the perplexing bit of water and oil mixing. Could it be a tiny head gasket leak? What else would cause the water and oil to come together.
View 13 RepliesMy 1985 Ford F-150 6 cyl. manual with overdrive would not start when I turned on the key, moved moved the key to start... It suddenly did nothing and all the dash light went out. I assumed the battery was run down and then tried to start it with my 2010 Ford car.
It still would not start and all dash lights went out. I then put my battery charger on the battery and charged fully charged the battery. I then turned the key off and back on and the dash light went on, tried to start again and the same thing happened. After about 10/15 minutes, I tried again and still did not start. I waited another few minutes, turned the key on and jumped from the battery positive to the starter cable after the starter solenoid and the engine started.
I ran it for a few minutes, and the backed it into the garage. The next day I again tried to start it and again, there was no power to the vehicle... no headlights, brake lights, dash light...nothing. I assumed the starter solenoid was burned out and replaced it. Still did the same thing. I replaced the fusible link on a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Still no power.
Just Bought 97 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Everything worked except interior cab light and cab brake light. Also the wipers and A/C blower only work on highest speed when I bought it. I assumed there was a problem with the switches, bulbs and/or fuses. But when I picked it up last evening I noticed the dash lights were very dim on the way home. Then when I got home I shut everything off and removed the key. I then opened the drivers door and touched the brake pedal and the dash lights and the parking lights came on along with the "key in ignition" bell alarm each time I touch the brake pedal. If I close the door the dash and parking lights come on but the key in ignition does not sound. With so many things malfunctioning I don't know where to start.
View 7 Replies85 2.0L Dura Ranger.
All of the Idle control wiring and box and sensors have been removed; all else is original. The truck ran just fine after the removal of the above paraphernalia (years). The truck simply quit, no spark at the coil, cranks just fine. All of the wiring has been checked for continuity. The Following components have been replaced with new:
Ignition switch.
Coil.
Dura-spark Box.
Dist coil.
Starter solenoid.
Rotor & Cap.
Plugs and wires.
Correct voltage is present at the coil & D-spark box side of the connector.
Coil tests close to what I think is correct for resistance and the engine ran with it.
I have tested both sides of every connector. I'm not sure what the output side of the D-Spark box (blue tab) voltages should be, and I am unable to test the trigger signal at the coil, however with no output and power in I'm guessing that is the problem...