Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1984 V6 - Electric Choke Replacement
Jan 26, 2015
I've got a '84 ranger that idles super fast for about 30 minutes after a cold start. The truck has been in the family since new and has done it since day one. I am wondering if replacing the electric choke or choke pull down would work. I've got a electric choke replacement but the cover place looks to be attached with rivets not screws. How to remove the choke?
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I didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
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I just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
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I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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I just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.
I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.
I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark. I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I have a newly remanufactured Holley 1835 carb which has had an electric choke added to it. My '59 F-100 has the original electrical system in place. Where would you recommend running the positive and negative wires from the choke? No instructions came with the carb.
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I have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
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I know where the filter is, i know how to bleed off the pressure. Im wondering if those clips are easy to slide off to remove the filter from the lines?
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My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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Is it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
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I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
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I have a 2011 Ranger. It came with Sirius radio which works with the AUX button on the head unit. This setup is not what I am use to. Anyway I want to replace the OEM unit with an aftermarket. My question is will this AUX connection effect an aftermarket radio connection?
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Replacing their door mirror with an aftermarket door mirror and not been happy with it?
I have a non-powered door mirror. if I understand my FoMoCo Workshop Manual correctly, I should be able to replace the exterior mirror glass without the need for a completely new mirror assembly.
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So I have ordered practically a whole front end for my Ranger. I decided to replace all the bushings, ball joints and shocks. Only thing not getting replaced are the springs, steering knuckles/hubs and sway bar. I did find that the lower half of the upper left hand sway bar bushing was completely missing along with the upper left ball joint boot. I was looking into replacing the Rack and pinion bellows/boot. I noticed that there is a line that goes up into the boot where it attaches to the body of the rack and pinion. What is that and does it need to be removed to replace the boot?
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My 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
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2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
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1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
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