Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1984 - Brake Pedal Squeaks And Won't Return
Jan 29, 2013
So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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I didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
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1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
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I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
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I have a 2010 Ford ranger sport 4x4, manual, and when backing up at a decent speed, then press the brake to slow up then depress the clutch, the brake pedal pulsates and it feels like something is grinding. It has happened in first once, but I can make it happen in reverse anytime...
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acts like abs sensors could be bad. but the brake pedal goes almost to the floor, after it does it's pulsating. But the abs light does not come on. I already changed brake booster, no change!
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I just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
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I've got a '84 ranger that idles super fast for about 30 minutes after a cold start. The truck has been in the family since new and has done it since day one. I am wondering if replacing the electric choke or choke pull down would work. I've got a electric choke replacement but the cover place looks to be attached with rivets not screws. How to remove the choke?
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I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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My ranger started to squeak at low speeds a few months ago (when it was pretty cold) and still does it in the mornings when I first start driving it. It squeaks from around 2mph up to 25-30 and then it seems to go away (or I can't hear it anymore cause of other noises haha). It is from underneath the truck somewhere, and not related to clutch or brakes. It seems to do it in the mornings only (or when it's cold) and increases in frequency when your speed increases. Not engine related at all.
My first thought was U joints or the driveshaft rubbing, since the squeaking was directly related to how fast you were moving and clutch in/out and brakes didn't change the noise at all. I couldn't find anything rubbing on the driveshaft.
Changed the U-joints since they were kinda old, but this didn't fix the issue. Next I pulled the rear brakes and checked all the springs and such, nothing I could see was wrong. Greased up the shoe contact points and put it all back together.
It was still squeaking, so I checked the wheel bearings for play and spun them while each corner was jacked up, the bearings seemed fine and didn't make any noise when I spun each tire. I have transmission and rear differential fluid.
I've checked all of the stuff I can think of and am kind of at a loss as to the next step. I guess the things it could possibly be are transmission bearings (input/output, since those spin all the time right?), pinion bearings or rear end bearings, wheel bearings (even though i've checked them), or ??
I've driven a chevy with bad bearings in the rear end, and this doesn't sound like that. The chevy sounded like a dull roar at speed, and kinda droned a bunch. this is a very distinct squeaking sound, very similar to a squeaking bearing on the idler pulley or something like that.
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I just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.
I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.
I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark. I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
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Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
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The wife's had her 05 for about two weeks now, and while riding in it the other day, I noticed that the brake pedal now squeaks like a SOB. I know it's a simple fix.
Also, is there any way to VAG the rear hatch, so you don't have to constantly use the door switch or fob to unlock the hatch, even when the doors are unlocked? And, is the any way to change the brightness of the overhead compass screen? At night, unless I lean over, I can't read it from the driver's seat. Those are my only rants thus far, which are nearly nonexistent. PS - got the hitch put on and pulled for the first time last weekend. Nothing but good things to say.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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Over the past week I have noticed leaking brake fluid and after my STOP Brake failure light came on I topped off the brake fluid and it is down to a low level again. I also notice that the clutch pedal (manual) does not return all the way when the brake fluid is low and I assume they share the same fluid. I'm going to take it to my mechanic but could this be a clutch problem or just a fluid leak.
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A few things that annoy me right now. Brake pedal squeaks when I press it. Like I'm killing a mouse. The steering above 65 is twitchy, just like all my other Prii, the AC sucks on hot days, the left lower seat bolster digs into my left thigh, there is a rattle somewhere.
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